Standard 1G-GTE Dyno.

[Z2TT]

So I read that all 1g's run rich, and that a AFC controller such as a SAFC will get good gains. I also read about people playing with the spring on the AFM, which will give different readings to the ECU, wouldn't that have the same affect as running a AFC, and would it give some power gains?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The spring will modify fuelling everywhere. The SAFC will be able to trim off fuel where it's running rich.

[TheToyman75]

So I read that all 1g's run rich, and that a AFC controller such as a SAFC will get good gains. I also read about people playing with the spring on the AFM, which will give different readings to the ECU, wouldn't that have the same affect as running a AFC, and would it give some power gains?

An SAFC is fuel only controller (Ie you can only adjust fueling) so you will get limited gains from fitting one of these. You NEED to be able to control fuel, boost and timing to get the vehicle at its best. A piggy back ECU, or a standalone replacement will yield the best results.

[Z2TT]

Yeah I know, but I am just wondering if any gains can be had by adjusting the spring on the AFM.

[woggin]

^^^ yea it can, in my case is also helped the car run less rich in the bottom (more tension=less movement of flap)....the 1g in my GZ20 was rooted.....like power wise....a few years ago my bro did a post on it.....it was on here....130hpat the wheels on standard boost with a 2.5" catback system!!! BOO!!! had heaps of problems....1 being the AFM was [email protected] thrown in, Cat was emptied and boost was wound up, along with air filter....and it got 175 rwhp on 13psi or so!!

bro wound up the boost to 22psi and saw 230 at the treads...although this was only done for 1 run and it was tuned for that pressure for that single run!!.

2L of oil every 3000KM's dam your lucky, the Magna does that every week!!! the Soarer is great of petrol and oil.....auto is ghey though, need manual conversion!!


these days the GZ is a daily so SAFC was left at tuned state (15psi) and it runs std boost and makes in the midst of 140-150hp!!! over fuels like a slut in the top.....!!!!


Quick Q that has gotten me thinking bout the GZ20.....i have a SARD R2D2 bov hooked up via the compressor housings....now....if iam planting it (100% throttle) itll hit redline and shift (as per usual) BUT!!! it feels like it closes the throttle (i know this coz the bov goes off) for about .50 secs and then it opens up again!????

wats happening?

is it because the motors RPMS drop so quickly, for next gear) that there is a massiv increase in pressure causing the bov to open..(doesnt make sense since the pressure in the plenum would still be the same??)..or does the computer somehow close the throttle to allow the motor to shift?? cruise control controlling it??

thanxs guys!!

[Z2TT]

Here are my findings after some research

1. I read that the springs on AFM's can get loose over time, so some people tighten them, that maybe why some cars run rich.

2. Here is an interesting page I found about AFM's, its a different engine but would still apply:

http://www.well.com/user/mosk/AFM1.htm

Here i also read that things like exhaust upgrades cause the engine to run leaner, never knew that.

3. I believe a problem some people might have on their 1g-gte, is when they run too high boost and the AFM flap cannot open anymore as its wide open, and air cannot be metered beyond a certain limit.

4.
I read in some threads people like to put some kind of "lexus afm" on their 1g-gte's, that flows better. Not sure which AFM this is though, it is just referred to as a "lexus afm"

[woggin]

^^^ if the AFM opens all the way for long enough it actually hits some sort of cut off....engine check light comes on..

Boost cut does this aswell...as in most cases if the flap is open allthe way, it will hit boost cut...

but i have had it hit AFM cut and boost cut has not been hit!!

stupid flap type afms

[The Real Roadrunner]

Boost cut does this aswell...as in most cases if the flap is open allthe way, it will hit boost cut...

but i have had it hit AFM cut and boost cut has not been hit!!

stupid flap type afms

a 1GGTE doesn't have a boost cut, so my question to you is how the hell are you hitting it?

either your engine is misfiring/detonating or you are hitting the airflow cut, its 1 or the other as there is no MAP sensor for the ECU to read.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

a 1GGTE doesn't have a boost cut, so my question to you is how the hell are you hitting it?

Yes it does. It throws a code for it and you get the usual "I feel like I broke" it jolt. I tightened the spring on my AFM 3 notches. Not much effect everywhere else, but enough to make the boost cut be past the 17psi I was running.

[Z2TT]

Its actually called Fuel cut, since the fuel gets cut off

[The Real Roadrunner]

Yes it does. It throws a code for it and you get the usual "I feel like I broke" it jolt. I tightened the spring on my AFM 3 notches. Not much effect everywhere else, but enough to make the boost cut be past the 17psi I was running.

so what does that have to do with a MAP sensor based BOOST cut? how does the ECU know how much boost its running? it doesn't.

it has an AIRFLOW meter only, therefore the only thing that can tell it its running to much AIR through the engine is the AFM.

its not a boost cut but an airflow cut (fuel is switched off when afm voltage gets too high)
by tightening the spring you stopped it opening the flap too much thus removing the chance of it seeing the higher voltage.

capiche?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

so what does that have to do with a MAP sensor based BOOST cut? how does the ECU know how much boost its running? it doesn't.

it has an AIRFLOW meter only, therefore the only thing that can tell it its running to much AIR through the engine is the AFM.

its not a boost cut but an airflow cut (fuel is switched off when afm voltage gets too high)
by tightening the spring you stopped it opening the flap too much thus removing the chance of it seeing the higher voltage.

capiche?

Fine, potato potatoe, it's when the AFM reaches a point where the ECU goes "too much air", which can only happen under boost. Stop arguing semantics

[TheToyman75]

Fine, potato potatoe, it's when the AFM reaches a point where the ECU goes "too much air", which can only happen under boost. Stop arguing semantics

Linden,

You have been hanging out with Mos to much you picky crunt !

As Nathan has already pointed out, the 1G does have a "boost cut" but yes it is triggered by reaching an air flow limit through the AFM and the Air flow meter voltage triggering the fuel cut which is the 1G's means of Boost cut. Most piggy back ECU's (such as the Xede) will stop this happening.

If your going to reset the AFM flap on a dyno (I recommend this as the ONLY place to set it) keep in mind that at least the GA70 Gen 3 1G ecu's default to a reduced timing map and stay there until you key off if they detect to much knock.

If all your worried about is the number on the top of the dyno graph then with a stock Gen 3 1G an AFM tweak with increased boost (17-18 PSI) should see your package making as much as it ever will with the stock set up. Of course A good intake, Intercooelr and exh all helps.


Woggin,

Maybe your hitting the rev limit ? Thats really the only other cut they have and Rev limit is not that hard to hit in a decent 1G

[Kedderz]

I will be dynoing my gen3 1g with dumps + 2.5 inch exhaust + 4x3x7.6 intercooler shortly. Its previous dyno was 140rwkw on stock boost. It has a mines ECU however and I am hoping someone here has a spare gen3 manual ecu they could lend me for testing as i want to see if the mines unit actually provides any recordable differences on the dyno from a stock unit.

[Z2TT]

Would a larger exhaust on a 1g cause it to run lean? I saw a post where somebody said his fueling went way out after doing an exhaust upgrade.