The Spray Painting Thread

[Sigmeister]

OK, well the forums were down for me for a few days so I couldn't get on here to ask questions or add updates.

Anway here's some more pics.

Finally added some colour.




And after a few days I did the top as well.



Then the clear coat. I didn't really capture it real well on the camera though.


I put it on the car to see how it looked. A little out of place now though.


I didn't quite get the super smooth result I was looking for. I think it is because I get worried when sanding the colour and clear in that I will sand too much and need to do it again, so i think I didn't sand enough. I guess I can keep sanding to see how it turns out.

A good first start though. On to more panels!

I will try and video the next one and try get a bit of a tutorial going.

[Sigmeister]

So to recap....

From this


To this


To this


To this


To this


To this


To this


Finally to this

[ian]

great job
if you have access to a polishing buff it will add that final lustre using a foam pad and some good quality cutters careful not to burn through
good job, all you have to do now is 4 doors a bonnett and body
cheers
ian

[o_man_ra23]

great job
if you have access to a polishing buff it will add that final lustre using a foam pad and some good quality cutters careful not to burn through
good job, all you have to do now is 4 doors a bonnett and body
cheers
ian

And 2 guards and a pair of bumpers

[ian]

and the beer fridge
ian

[infotechplus]

Siggy,

A couple of observations if I might ...

If you are spraying on that loose gravel surface, please rethink. Fine dust will probably be disturbed by your spraying and this might end up on your finished job. Some suggest a light hosing to settle the dust. I would put a big tarp down.

Look closely at the boot lid. See the parallel lines in it. That suggests you didn't overlap your runs across the panel. It's what the professionals call "tram lines". It also looks too 'dry' to me. [Or, if the photo was taken directly afterwards then disregard this comment - the paint is still drying]. Sanding with 1200 wet n dry might fix it but if you've already put clear over it then it's a bigger job to fix.

You didn't sand the colour coat did you? You shouldn't - only the clear coat. At the VG class we were told you should put at least 3 coats of clear on - one mist coat and two 'wetter' coats. Colour sanding (that is, sanding the clearcoat) with 1200 wet n dry only removes about 10% of the top coat so it's safe to give it a good sanding, before buffing with Cutting Compound, and then polishing.

Keep up the good work, and thanks for your great photos on this job. Good luck.

Happy Christmas to everyone on Toymods,

Cheers,

Peter

[ian]

hi peter [infotech]
thanks for your contributions, they have been a great help to many ,although i have been painting for more years than i would like to admit , i always find something that i did not know , or had forgotten, and you can teach an old dog new tricks ,i am proof
have a happy christmas, but more importantly a safe one
cheers
ian

[Grega]

great job
if you have access to a polishing buff it will add that final lustre using a foam pad and some good quality cutters careful not to burn through

i prefer to do by hand. dind't have much luck with cutting with the machine. much better results in a back and forth motion by hand on my ae92. i got a really great gloss even though the jam i laid on was a bit thin. each to their own though - great for building muscles too.

looking at that color, thats asteroid silver

typically with metallics u don't wet rub them after the final coat (i didn't with my ta22 nor ae92) for a deeper finish. still, it looks very very good. you now have to do the rest of that VN mate

whats folks' thoughts on watering the ground before spraying to keep the dust down. jury is out with me on that due to it increasing humidity - anyone with some more experience have any thoughts here?

[infotechplus]

i prefer to do by hand. dind't have much luck with cutting with the machine. much better results in a back and forth motion by hand on my ae92. i got a really great gloss even though the jam i laid on was a bit thin. each to their own though - great for building muscles too.

Hi Grega, how are you?

Nah, doin' it by hand is hard work. A rotary buffer with a woollen pad is great but not for the beginner. Beginners should practice on a spare panel until they achieve the right "feel, balance, and speed" of the machine.

A random orbital sander is good but I only use it for prep work not final buffing. It is suggested you don't go higher than 1500rpm on the buffer but I've gone to 2500-3000rpm with success but you have to let the trigger go on the edges (to oscillate the rpms),

Most pros suggest you don't put water down but nearly all the books I've read suggest you do. Weird hey? I prefer a large tarp - they're cheap and disposable.

Cheers,

Peter

[twentyEight]

From a ex-professionals point of view, the best for cutting is a medium foam pad on a buff and you should keep the area moist by using a Water Spray nozzle and bottle... (similar to what hairdresser use...)

Most pros suggest you don't put water down but nearly all the books I've read suggest you do. Weird hey? I prefer a large tarp - they're cheap and disposable.

I take it by putting water down you mean wetting the concrete etc. before spraying the vehicle?

It's a 2 worlds kinda thing, if you don't you can leave a lot of dust in the underlying area, but if you do it can create to much moisture in the air and effect your spraying...

[ian]

a lot of the modern spray booths have a water filled dust trap underneath although the exhaust fan draws air across the top of the water also you get more moisture from the atmosphere on a humid day
i have to empty the moisture trap on the compressor a couple of times during a humid day
ian

[Grega]

hey pete, hows things? hope that 1GGZE lux is looking after you

Nah, doin' it by hand is hard work. A rotary buffer with a woollen pad is great but not for the beginner. Beginners should practice on a spare panel until they achieve the right "feel, balance, and speed" of the machine.

that explains it all. PEBKAC = problem exists between keyboard and chair - ie: operator error

seriously, best workout this fat arse has had for a long time doing that manual cut.

anyway back on topic, ian, yes, thinking about it you are spot on boothes do have that in the floor i never thought of that. on another note i've only once emptied my water trap which leads me to believe i'm either good at picking non humid days or its not working...

[o_man_ra23]

Depends how dusty an area as to whether or not you should wet it. For a dirt floor, just put a tarp down, as you will only be trudging in mud otherwise. Perhaps lightly wetting the tarp may help too. Depends on how hot the day is too. The cooler it is, the less likely the water will become humidity. The hotter it is, well its probably humid by then anyways (is up here). Thats my preferences, and as stated by Grega... the jury is out on it... both methods have their good and bad points.

Keep the good info coming oh learned people.

[ian]

earthing the job that you are spraying reduces the static build up, if you are spraying on a plastic tarp , eathing any spray job helps for that matter
ian

[Night Rider-TA23]

I have had a look around and couldnt find much info about this on the forums. And this seemed like a semi right place to ask . How common is it / what sort of price would i be looking at to retrim my roof lining??

Cheers
Jarrod