The Spray Painting Thread

[o_man_ra23]

guide coat and 1200... be a little less keen on this run too... you rubbed through in too many spots. How big is your sanding block?? A nice long sander should be what you use to get a flat even finish.

[joey]

Great thread guys. Ive been following it from the start and its an invauluable source of info (despite it being all over the place at times lol). My noob question is when goin over curved parts of a panel, such as the lip on sigmeisters boot lid where the lock hole is, do you use the sanding block on the curved parts like that or is it done by hand? I would suspect rubbing back with the flat sanding block would square out the curve?
Cheers, Joey

[o_man_ra23]

Run along the curve, not over it. Long strokes with a long sander, and then final sand run across it by hand, or with a very soft sander (foam one). Same applies with the bodycurve of the celica... run with it, not across it.

[ian]

Great thread guys. Ive been following it from the start and its an invauluable source of info (despite it being all over the place at times lol). My noob question is when goin over curved parts of a panel, such as the lip on sigmeisters boot lid where the lock hole is, do you use the sanding block on the curved parts like that or is it done by hand? I would suspect rubbing back with the flat sanding block would square out the curve?
Cheers, Joey

hi joey
this is a solid rubbing block


this is the flexible block


and this is my favourite THE HAHN DRINKING BLOCK

ian

[TC1600]

Looks like an ice block to me (but not the type I'd give the kiddies )

[joey]

Lol thanks ian and oman, maketh much sense

[ian]

hi joey
around the lock area you can [PARDON THE PUN ] finger rub the area , that is just with the point of you finger on the w/d paper its ok for small areas where you cant get a rubbing block in also if its around the key lock area it is curved so a flat block would create flat spots if that makes sense
cos that block of hahn ice is now half empty
ian

[Night Rider-TA23]

Hey guys, I am currently at the stage of stripping my car of gear ready to prep for painting and i have a few questions. This has been covered in the thread before, but there was some confusion as to what is better.

Should i sand back my car or use paint stripper (i have a few areas with some crows feet ie bonnet and around the fuel filler)??

If sanding is the answer what is the best method (some people have mentioned an orbital?? or that long sanding stick thingy??)

And should i be using wet and dry (it was mentioned that wet and dry should not be used, or was that only on coats of primer?)? And what grade should i use??

Sorry about repeating stuff already in the thread but i couldnt really gather a clear idea of what to do.

Cheers
Jarrod

[ian]

hi jarrod
i think that the final choice is yours , if you have not chemicaly stripped a car before
it can lead to tears , i only would use a paint stripper as a last resort
but that is only my personal feeling
if the cracking is fairly isolated, it may not need to be stripped back , many people fall in love with the concept of a bare metal respray sounds good , but have a look at how many unfinished projects that are for sale ,thats how i bought my 23
there are a large range of isolator /sealers on the market at the moment that would give better results at a third of the cost and about one tenth of the time
SANDING
you can buy an inexspensive random orbital sander from bunnings, use it untill it dies then they replace it under warranty you need a range of sanding paper starting from 80 grit down to 600 grit the finer grit are mostly used for finishing , thats from 600 up to 1200
when you use filler , or as its called plastic finishing , or as i call it bogging up use two types the best for finishing is the 2pac filler it is designed for use under two pack primers and top coats but work very well with acrylics, it is important at this stage to use good quality stuff K and H brand comes to mind
the best thing to do is go to a good panel shop, and ask what they use, get chummy and ask who they buy it from ,it will be a company that deals with panel shop equipment
they will look after you better than any super cheap /repco type outlets ,and in most cases they will be cheaper there is a great link that was put up on the forums i will try and find it
ian

cheers
ian

[ian]

here it is , thanks to " infotechplus"
I haven't been following this thread - I'm over spray painting for the immediate future - but I'll go back and start "from the start" later.

I noticed a few pages back the heavy coat of the primer that suggested too much fluid was coming from the gun. This can be rectified by adjusting the air and spray pattern (which I'm sure someone would have pointed out). Always test your gun settings on scrap first to adjust your gun!

For anyone contemplating spraying their own car, here's a great article I found covering all aspects of the job:

http://www.theautoist.com/body_repairs.htm

Also, for anyone in Sydney, and living in the western subrubs, VG Auto Paints at Girraween are running FREE intro spray painting courses on Saturday mornings at their premises in Amax Avenue. Times are 8:00 t0 12:00 and there's a nice BBQ put on afterwards.

I did the first course a couple of weeks ago and it was brilliant - everything from fixing a panel to painting to polishing. I learnt more there in four hours than I did at the 12 week TAFE course a couple of years ago. They are also doing a follow up course early next year.

Ring VG Auto Paint, ask for Mark and put your name down

[edit] Just saw on the VG site that the next class is scheduled for the 8th December.

11 Amax Ave Girraween
NSW 2145
Ph: (02) 9636 7809

PS. I am not affiliated or have any commercial or other interest in VG Auto Paints but I have been a customer for many years and they provide a top service. This free course only confirms that. I see on their site they have a little blurb about the course and they quoted me.

Cheers,

Peter

[MWP]

PITA of a job to get these corners right
The left one is getting close to the right shape now though.

[Night Rider-TA23]

i only would use a paint stripper as a last resort
but that is only my personal feeling
if the cracking is fairly isolated, it may not need to be stripped back

Hey, thats for the great info.

The cracking on my bonnet is fairly bad, but around the fuel filler it is not so bad, i think it would fall off if i rubbed hard enough with my fingers .

And when your were talking about filler ( i already deleted it from the quote, woops ) i keep tossing up between acrylic or 2pac, i think i am leaning towards acrylic at this stage. So what i ment to say was, what filler (if a different one) should i use for an acrylic paint.

Again, thanks for all the info people have given me so far, im sure there will be more to come .

Cheers
Jarrod

[MWP]

So what i ment to say was, what filler (if a different one) should i use for an acrylic paint.

AFAIK, under acrylic, you can use either.
Under 2pak, you must use 2pak filler.

[ian]

the 2pac filler is a better quality one
ian

[Night Rider-TA23]

AFAIK, under acrylic, you can use either.
Under 2pak, you must use 2pak filler.

the 2pac filler is a better quality one
ian

Cheers guys