The Spray Painting Thread

[Neverland]

hi neverland
let it dry for a few days then with a hard rubber block and some 800# with soapy water block it back flat and with a softer fexible rubbing block for the high spots
it will make buffing it back a lot easier you can also give it another coat of clear, if it blocks back nice and flat , make the top coat of clear a bit thinner , this makes it flow a lot better , careful not to get runs with the thinner mix
ian

Thanks again Ian for the great tips I'll do that for the roof aswell. being a short ass and even though I was standing to get height it was hard to get the middle of the roof.... I'm also reach impaired

[Neverland]

lol at the plates on the rex

hehe I know...they didn't have yee hah

[twentyEight]

I worked in a Paint & panel shop for a few years .. & that's what we did... "P" plate color match..

FTW!

We actually had plain coloured (white) magnetic strips that we used, but they're exactly the same as the magnetic P plates...

When checking colour using a clear over base system, always spray the fresh colour (colour on the P plate) with water (to simulate clear coat) and check the flip... (The "Flip" is the colour on the angle, mainly noticeable when using Metallics, Micas, or Pearls...)

[Neverland]

Well I decided to do one more coat, 15% paint, 25% clear and the rest thinners

[ian]

that looks heaps better
do you have any straight clear left?
if so give it a light block backwith 1200 and give it straight clear thinned of course and that makes it look real deep its looking good
ian

[ian]

My effort for the previous weekend.

About 4 coats of primer, followed by about 6 coats of Toyota Supra Red (3D1) (with sanding and bogging in between).

Doesn't look like a perfect match at the moment (not too happy about that), but we'll see what happens after a polish.

Using a bottle feed (vacuum?) gun, cost about $150odd, and a cheap Marlows teeny compressor. Gun pressure was about 55-60psi. (gun box recommends 45-70psi, paint recommends 40-60psi).
Primer went on pretty nasty as the vent hole in the gun was blocked and I didn't know

are you going to re assemble the car and give it an even coat all over ?
its a nice red , looks a bit similar to a monza red
good work
ian

[CrUZida]

Yeah, about half way through doing it I realised how much easier it would have been to do it while still on the car, however most of the panels had to be removed anyway, so it made sense at the time to spray them off the car.

After the panels are refit I'll assess the colour match (not looking all that flash at the moment). I'm selling the car once its all back together, so giving the whole car a lick is not something I can be bothered doing. The colour match is closer than it was beforehand, and the panels are no longer dented, so its a good result so far.


Can someone explain to me the how, why and when of clear?
I was just going to assemble it all, and then give it a decent polish (possibly a 2000grit sand if a polish doesn't bring it up) to make it all smooth and shiny.
I've never bothered clearing anything beforehand, but I've never sprayed anything this large.

[Grega]

i wouldn't bother sanding ; depending on the finish now.
i used cutters to bring my corolla up ; at first post clear it was dull ; the cutter smoothed it out and brought up the gloss big time

oh, with metallics ; don't sand then clear. you'll lose the metallic to the paint....just lay on some nice clear (thinned back) and then a coat of thinner last just to even the coats.

[ian]

you can get a guide to what a coat of clear would look like by wetting your car , clear when applied and polished gives a very similar apperance to a wet car also when blocking back or cutting without some clear coat , you actually are removing color more burn throughs happen on paint without clear
ian

[CrUZida]

So clear will give the currently *somewhat* dull appearance a nice shine, with less worth than uber elbow grease?

I'll get a nice clear up close shot of the finish. See whether it needs a cut before a clear. It's not at good as I hoped, but given the equipment I have to use, and my lack of experience/knowledge, I'm quite happy with the result.

[Neverland]

that looks heaps better
do you have any straight clear left?
if so give it a light block backwith 1200 and give it straight clear thinned of course and that makes it look real deep its looking good
ian

Yep Ian I do have about 1/3rd of the tin ..(on a seperate note, MAN that stuff is sticky..Like honey but don't taste as good, don't ask )

[ian]

its not to bad with vodka and a beer chaser
ian

[Neverland]

its not to bad with vodka and a beer chaser
ian

lol hehe Well after the fumes hit you combine the rest and you've got a right ol' party happening..... in your head...
At least in the morn you can blame the fumes for the hangover

[Neverland]

PM night-rider

[Sigmeister]

OK, next step please.

I put on my guide coat as suggested:


Then sanded it all back




Then put on my second coat of primter\filler. It went on much better this time after my first go.



So I think I am at the stage of colour.

Do I need to sand the second coat down again? If so, do I use a higher grade of sandpaper (say 1200) to make it nice and smooth for the colour to go on?

Looking forward to teh responses as I can see it all coming together soon....hopefully