The Spray Painting Thread

[Supra967]

It's definitely not rust then, don't even bother with the POR15 for this.

Go to your local Autobarn/AutoOne/Reco etc and buy some Detailing Clay. Wet car with hose, and use the clay to remove what has been deposited.

It will either be tree sap, Coke residue, or many other things. It's easily removed, but you will probably need to give it a cut and polish afterwards to remove any staining that the residue leaves behind.

Thanks for all the help from the spray painting team. Tried some mothers clay and it has most of the bad stuff off with a few rubs. Looks like i should be able to get it all off or at least most of it.

I was ruling out tree sap... but remembered we had to cut down a tree about 10m away on the fenceline so i think this was a result of floating saw dust sitting on the car too long. Good call.

[oldcorollas]

hmm, yaknow... maybe spraying at home isn't such a good idea after all....
maybe 1 panel at a time would be ok but...

rentabooths in sydney, and anyone with a car trailer?

Austral $160 for 4hrs, $260 for 8
same place?

some place at bargo maybe

[oldcorollas]

from the amazing technicoloured dreamcar....



to something that was a lot harder to photograph, due to lack of detail



really happy with how it turned out. no major stuffups that i can see so far.. except it was still outside an hour or so later, when it started to rain. got the drops off but still discoloured th eprimer a little.. maybe it will dry...

this is only 1 coat, and it needed 2, but available light, and the thinner fog due to no wind, and fear of neighbours put an end to that
used about.. 600-700mls of 50% reduced 1K etch primer, with 25psi dynamic.
went on really well, got a nice wet coating.
i didn7t overlap so well on the roof, but thats where i started from, and was not easy to see... should make some steps next time but needed to do under sills at the same time...

[o_man_ra23]

Not sure about down there, but up here, morning painting FTW... as we get bad bugs in the evenings. Morning dew may make things harder in that regard for you.

[oldcorollas]

hmm, apart from being about 10deg, you might be onto something...
If i can whack on a coat on a panel before everyone wakes up.. might work better. i put sides on the tent today, so i can put a heater in there to pre-warm things...

I might nip out and get another coat or two on the roof, pillars and gutters and shit.. and call them done, then sand for topcoat.
door jambs and window openings.. meh, that'll do
will need to nikki rear 1/4's and rear before next coats..

kinda shit to need to do it bit by bit, but better than getting an unwelcome knock..

[Cuzzo]

OC.

Did you go back to bare metal on the roof?
Where did you get and how much was the etch primer?

Can you use the same gun for primer and colour (acrylic)

[oldcorollas]

i went through the 2-3 colours layers and primers and i think got down to the original red lead layer in parts.
some was down to metal tho.. meh.
actually i tried the grafiti remover (too violent ) and orbital, but they got gunked up on the top colour layer, so i used a wood chisel to zip it off... worked well (poor adhesion?), then orbital'd the rest down. took ages tho..

i used 1K etch primer from VG autopaints (Concept paint) and i think it was $58 for 4L.
for this 1 thin layer i probably used about 5-600ml? i will turn down flow and use less next time and do thinner layers. but at this rate,. i might have 2L left
still have to do another coat at least on body, then doors/panels.

Chuck had said before you need bigger tip for primer than topcoat, and mentioned 1.8-2mm (?) for primer and 1.2-1.4 for topcoat?? can use same gun if you can change sizes..

[Megz]

OK i figured this would be the best place to post a question, instead of posting a new thread.
Just wondering everyone's thought's on POR15 products? I know it has been mentioned a few times, but after opinions and/or critics. Also has anyone had experience with SW 2 Protective Oil?
Cheers
Mick

[o_man_ra23]

POR15 went on well for me. I'll be getting more of it. It also over-coated with 2k primer extremely well. I used it on the entire floorpan underside, plus along all sills and in the entire rear cargo area inside, plus around the windscreen and roof rails. Adhesion from it and the top coat is quite good.

Spraying POR15 with a HVHP gun is not recommended, as the mist from the overspray is real nasty on the eyes. Stick with brushing it on, and once you have run the brush across a section, DON'T try and re-brush until it has been through the flash off time, or you will get bubbles come through.

[wirysage]

OK i figured this would be the best place to post a question, instead of posting a new thread.
Just wondering everyone's thought's on POR15 products? I know it has been mentioned a few times, but after opinions and/or critics. Also has anyone had experience with SW 2 Protective Oil?
Cheers
Mick

Check the link in my TAG. Its holding up well but it's not exactly a easy paint to work with on cosmetic panel surfaces. Also don't use the High-Build primer they say you need its shit and just use any primer you want as long as you wet 320 grit all the POR-15 you painted so its shiny layer is dulled.

[Megz]

OK sweet, yeah Wiry I had a good look through your thread, very dedicated I must say. I am in the process of welding a few sections in, once that is done, I will run over it with the POR 15.

On one bit on the rear of the car, the guy before had it bead blasted and put a few holes in the metal (looks like perforated sheet metal), i was thinking about using POR patch over this, then once all the holes are filled, cover it with the POR15. What do you think? THe only reason i asked this, is that it is a very inconvenient spot to cut and weld, so if that POR patch works, it seems like a logical idea.

Cheers
Mick

[wirysage]

POR patch is a great idea I used it for many holes I made when I removed the spot welds holding the rusty brackets for the trim piece below the tail-lights and above the bumper. It's very strong stuff stronger then any filler and frankly I would'nt call it filler its basically like car concrete. To get a good finish if its cosmetic surface you put the POR patch in the hole smooth it over with a credit card so the POR Patch is flush with body contours and then get some electrical tape and cover the entire spot. Then the next day come back and peel the tape off carefully and it'll stay in place (its alot stronger then the tape). After that just use some light filler or putty surfacer over the POR patch sand it flat and prime it. Also you need not remove the paint underneath or around the holes you want to fill if its not rusty POR patch works very well on painted surfaces too.

Oh yea do after the POR patch is done cover it with 2 brush coats of POR-15 then go over it with filler/putty surfacer and primer. Putting POR-15 over the POR patch actually is helpful because POR Patch sometimes has a airbubbly texture after its dry and the POR-15 is the right thickness and consistancy to fill those holes and achieve a flat surface for filler or primer. They really thought out this product.

[oldcorollas]

so... spray painting when it's raining.. in humid conditions...

it causes blushing/blooming due to water interacting with surface while drying...
but...

would it be ok to do say, 2 layers of primer, that will have the surface rubbed back befor etopcoat?
or one thick wet on wet primer layer that will be rubbed back?

just thinking while raining/crappy weather, most ppl are inside

edit: found a few things of info..

Blushing is a common problem when spraying in high humidity/cold conditions. It happens when the air and evaporating solvent from the spray gun lowers the temperature of the surface being painted to below the dew point (the temperature at which air becomes saturated and produces water). This condition causes condensation in or on the paint layer producing a smoky or milky looking cloud on the paint surface. Blushing can normally be corrected by adding a bit of retarder (a slow-evaporating solvent) to your paint mixture and then recoating, or by letting the finish cure and then compounding and buffing. You can help prevent blushing by using a good-quality thinner/reducer that's correct for your conditions, adding the recommended amount of retarder when spraying in humid conditions, or by applying heat after application to help evaporate excess moisture

Read more: http://www.customclassictrucks.com/t...#ixzz1NG1WHETV

so it'S just a top of the layer issue? hmm...

[o_man_ra23]

I sprayed primer on rainy days with nil issues.

[oldcorollas]

fair enough

regarding lighting.. i assume halogens (those 250/500W jobbies) are a no no, due to possibly igniting thinner vapours?

would these fluoro tripod things give enough light? or better to rig up a conventional fluoro tube light?
http://www.mitre10.com.au/Housewares...catalogue=2193