The Spray Painting Thread

[blaq.boi]

mmmm oversprayed rims.... hard to get more than $50 on Ebay for them...

firstly the rims are gay ass k speed 18inch crap.
secondly i wouldnt charge anyone for those rims lol
overspray on the tyres. which last time i checked, are interchangeable..
its ok, hang in there buddy, after i change the tyres all will be ok, i promise

[o_man_ra23]

haha, just havin a go, no need to take it too seriously... except the bit about masking up, that's a must do for next time eh??

[blaq.boi]

lol wheres the love man

yer i probably will, although when i get my ma61 i wont be spray canning it

[Gibbon]

So - I now have a completly rust-free MA61 rear hatch - and nobody is happier about that than me !

But I have two questions.

As I was wire wheeling some stuck on rubber seal off - under the paint was rust. It wasn't very deep, and it came right off with the angle grinder. It was only on the surface of the metal, and had not come through from the other side as I followed it down with the grinder, and it wasn't deep at all - and had only pitted the metal in a few very small spots.

First question is - how does rust form _under_ the paint - I could understand in one or two spots, maybe where the paint had been scratched somehow - but this surface rust was about 3/4 of the length of the rear edge in various sized splotches. The paint under the rubber seal was in very good condition, and if I hadn't removed the paint with the wire wheel you couldn't tell the rust was there. ( I did the whole length of the edge anyway with the angle grinder just to be sure.)

Second question - how do I stop this happening again? Is it just a bad design that the MA61 hatches will always rust?

Thanks

["Z" UTE]

The slightest scratch from a tool as the glass was being installed, could have lead to that rust. The other problem is that there may not have been paint on the thin edge of the metal, not hard to miss even in a factory. Just remember the old corrosion cycle, any pooled water especially under a rubber seal will eventually lead to rust. Do not for a moment think that the factory uses rust free virgin metal either. Have a look at a current model Falcon, the festers do not even paint some of the bits on the cars, just metal straight from the peresses.

Treat the metal with a rust preventative (phosphoric acid), or if the area is bright and shiny, just give it a quick coat of an etch primer followed by the normal primer and topcoats.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

As chuck eluded to, it doesn't take much to get rust under paint. Another thing you can do on top of what Chuck suggested, is to load up the inside of the hatch with a rust preventative goo, and regularly treat it with deodorised fish oil to try and stop rust forming in the future from the inside.

Just be thankful the freight company didn't put a forklift tine in the side of your rust free hatch

[Gibbon]

Just be thankful the freight company didn't put a forklift tine in the side of your rust free hatch

Nice. I did have them shatter the glass however - made it kind of hard to use the working demister

Does the goo have a name - or should I just ask for a can of "rust preventative goo".

Cheers

[o_man_ra23]

There are many products on the market. I can't give you a specific recommendation as I haven't given any some testing.

["Z" UTE]

Nice. I did have them shatter the glass however - made it kind of hard to use the working demister

Does the goo have a name - or should I just ask for a can of "rust preventative goo".

Cheers

The stuff I just used on the ute, is cavity wax available in spray can K and H product available at REPCO. At least it does not stink like any fishoil product. I could not imagine myself driving around in anything that smells like the dunny door off a prawn trawler.

cheers Chuck.

[hamgatan]

The stuff I just used on the ute, is cavity wax available in spray can K and H product available at REPCO. At least it does not stink like any fishoil product. I could not imagine myself driving around in anything that smells like the dunny door off a prawn trawler.

cheers Chuck.

you should smell the floorpan of my white Z20 shell that i've just stripped then.. hehe. its like a brothel full of negro minge

[o_man_ra23]

The deodorised fish oil should be used in conjunction with the cavity wax, as it will get into the really small nooks and crannies. It will only stink for a short period, after that it just smells like a car that isn't going to rust.

[Gibbon]

The stuff I just used on the ute, is cavity wax available in spray can K and H product available at REPCO. At least it does not stink like any fishoil product. I could not imagine myself driving around in anything that smells like the dunny door off a prawn trawler.

cheers Chuck.

Just got back from Repco and had already bought the exact same stuff.

Is it best to use it before or after it goes to the spray painters?

Cheers

["Z" UTE]

Just got back from Repco and had already bought the exact same stuff.

Is it best to use it before or after it goes to the spray painters?

Cheers

If you do not tell the painters, they will shoot you, as there is a fair bit of extra cleanup required, so maybe do it after paint.


cheers Chuck.

[Gibbon]

Ok - I really need some advice please.

The car is currently at the spray painters getting the rust cut out and fixed.

The quote to get it painted is way more than my allowed budget ( about $1500 more ).

I'm thinking I might do it myself - BUT - I'm in Canberra - and the temperature is maxing out at 17c during the middle of the day - and from what I have read - that's too cold for spray painting. I would look at painting it in the garage.

I have rubbed the car back, filled with high filler, removed the glass - basically got it ready to paint for the spray painter - so it's not in a driveable state.

I can't store it until the weather warms up as it's my daily.

I was looking at using InfraRed lamps - but advice from the spraypainter indicates that this may not be the best idea if I want to avoid a potential explosion.

The only other thing I can think of is to hire some sort of heater and try to warm up the garage prior to painting - and do it soon before temps drop even more.

Am I stuck - anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks

[o_man_ra23]

1. move to a warmer climate
2. paint in winter when it stops raining and is perfect temps
3. ???
4. PROFIT!!


Seriously though, how hard will it be for you to stretch your budget and pay the painter?? Have you got any other quotes?? Have you contacted a paint supplier to find out if they can supply a paint more suited to colder painting conditions (not everything in the world is sprayed in a booth in ideal conditions).

Warming up your shed without having heaters in the slab is going to be a hard task, as the slab will absorb a lot of the heat you put in once you turn the heater off fairly quickly. You would have to bake the slab to be able to retain the heat. If you are going to risk the temp and paint with a bit less thinners, hesitation will be your undoing, so you will need to make a decision fast. How good a result do you want?? Show car, or clean and tidy?? If the latter, you will probably get away with the colder application using whatever you can to pre-heat the slab and panels (turn off during and after spraying)