The Spray Painting Thread

[oldcorollas]

so you are not talking about toyotas then?

what toyota would have it's value increased by 4-5K by a shiny paintjob, that could be called a classic? 2000GT excluded of course...

[da_foles]

Just spent 580 at harts automotive paints. Ready to start tomorrow. Bought everything pretty much include an iwata gun.

["Z" UTE]

Hi,

Am now blending in the other panel, working with acrillic. So I'm wondering if there is any blending thinners that come in pressure packs for use with acrylic?

Want to try avoid halo on clearcoat this time and probably blend in basecoat in too as colour is a bit off on the other panel.

Thanks.

Maybe if you bought a can of clear or colour, and did not shake it, before using you could just possibly only get a flow of propellant and thinners! But the short answer is no, no one makes thinners in spraycan.

cheers Chuck.

[Z2TT]

Thanks chuck, haha I was thinking of that exact same thing about the other can of clear and not shaking it ! But doesn't the heavier material the actual clear settle at the bottom of the can, so not shaking it will just spray a thick sludge of clear instead of thinners (I assume the pickup is at the bottom for the can)

I have seen those blending sprays made by U-POL but on the description they are only for 2K, am wondering why they only make them for 2k in spray cans.

Since I do have a compressor, I might get the compressor and gun out to spray some thinners on to try get a blend happening

Question though, you mentioned earlier going over the whole panel in thinners to blend it in, I was thinking could I only go over the spot where it blends in, and what could be possible problems if i do that vs whole panel?

This area in question is not a panel so to speak but the C Pillar between the windscreen and 1/4 window and I'm respraying the C-Pillar. I'm thinking would the thinners make it go all water like by dissolving it, or is that solved by trying to go very light with the thinners?

Thanks.

["Z" UTE]

Yeah, you are probbably correct regarding a sludge spray,doh.

You only need to spray the thinners over the edges of the repair work, not the whole panel. Effectively what you are trying to do is "wet" that area so that the dry edge paint "flows" and flattens out. Too wet and you turn the panel int a sea of runs, so a couple of light coats.

If you have a compressor, I wonder why you are stuffing around with spray cans? 100ml of colour from the paint shop is equivalent to 5 -8 cans, and would be way cheaper, but hey each to his own. With the gun you could mix to a ratio that works for you and avoid a lot of the hassles you are experiencing. The last coat of colour could be fairly thin giving a nice flow out, and the same could be done with the clear, almost eliminating the need to blend out.

Working on something as small as a "C" pillar, maybe a touch up gun would be an appropriate purchase. They start at $50.00, you can never have too many tools!

cheers Chuck.

[Z2TT]

Yeah just The annoyance of mixing up paints and pouring into the gun can get a bit messy sometime for something so small.

Yeah I'm spraying the whole C Pillar, it will blend in

A. Where it reaches the top of the C Pillar this is where the roof begins

B. Also where the bottom of the Pillar is where it meets the rear 1/4 panel.

So I take it i will just hold the gun at one point and just splash some thinners on ?

Also am wondering to try get a better blend in happening, will the following technique work when putting colour and clear on

When i'm spraying, and moving the can along, and when i reach the area where its supposed to blend in, will it work to quickly lift the can up progressively as I approach that area, and same with clear, so as to create a "vanishing point", or does this method not work.

Thanks

EDIT : yeah also

Another question.

I have just removed the chrome strip where the C Pillar meets the Rear windscreen. undere there is a bit of rust. Now I imagine the chrome strip does not stop water 100% going in there, so I want to prevent that area from rusting again, because i don't want it to rust inside out.

The rust is under the chrome strip.

So should I Brush septone rust converter all over it? (or something else?) and when painting should I try get the paint to flow into the crevice under where the chrome strip is so to get some paint there to give it extra protection?

Thanks.

Also I have a feeling I might get some of the paint on the C pillar down to the metal in like small spots (like little dots), do these need to be converted/treated? Septone or is there other products.

[da_foles]

Ok everything is off now on the gtfour. Have been sanding with 400 wet where the clear is flaking and scuffing up the good paint with 800. Couple of questions. There are pin pricks in the clear on the roof do these need to be sanded out. You can only just feel them. Where the clear has gone cloudy? Do we have to sand that all out down to the paint.

[Z2TT]

Edited previous post

["Z" UTE]

Z2TT, try to get a good coverage of paint right to the top and bottom of the "C" pillar, remember you can aways give this area a light sand with some pre used 800, then follow up with the clear. The mopre you try to thin the edge out by lifting the can the more the likelyhood of overspray.

Spray your thinners along the line of new paint both top and bottom on the "C" pillar. A couple of medium wet coats with 10 minutes between each coat.

The chrome trim is just a dress up piece, it will never ever stop water penetration.Rremove the rust mechanically, and treat as you have done the "C" pillar. Maybe try to brush the paint into the seam area, much better than running the risk of runs trying to puddle some paint in the crevice.

da_foles, you really should try to level out any stone chips or pin holes, as these little things will trap any wax remover other impurities, resulting in fisheyes.

As for the cloudy areas, I would say the clear is compromised, it will be very porous and should be removed.

The entire surface that is being repainted needs to be given a final rub down with 800, before applying any paint or clear, the 400 scratch marks will show through.

cheers Chuck.

[Z2TT]

Thanks chuck.

Few more questions.

1. I have just removed the chrome strip where the C Pillar meets the Rear windscreen. undere there is a bit of rust. Now I imagine the chrome strip does not stop water 100% going in there, so I want to prevent that area from rusting again, because i don't want it to rust inside out.

The rust is under the chrome strip.

So should I Brush septone rust converter all over it? (or something else?)

2. When painting should I try get the paint to go in the area where it was rusted, to let the paint give it some extra protection?


3. When sanding the C Pillar to get rid of some bumps, I have gotten it down to the metal at places as the paint was brittle, its a small 2mm circle thats down to the metal and its like a chip, so i Will have to fill that up to get it level with the surface.

Also other areas i got down to the metal a little bit, if I'm going to fill those areas with bog, do I need to rust convert/treat first, or just bog over.

Now should I rust convert/treat first, or don't i need to do that since i'm going to apply bog over it?

4.

There are some chips as the paint there was pretty brittle, so just going at it with a screwdriver lightly i made some chips removing brittle paint, like 2mm ones small ones, see there are irregularities along that edge. So I want to get the edge all smooth and not irregular, Can I use normal filler over it or do i need some sort of special fine filler for these precision jobs?


5.

On my previous repair where i had gotten the paint down to the primer at places, i sprayed over and there was a puddle like crater left there that is somehow seen through the paint, probably because i made a crater getting it down to the primer.

Now since I have gotten an area down to the primer here, how can I avoid this crater being visible once the final topcoat is on.

Should I sand around the primed area to make the gap more progressive, or is there some sort of spray filler I can use to bring this gap a bit higher.

Just to note, when I run my finger over it, I cannot notice that the surface is lower, so im not sure if i will notice this crater when the final topcoat is applied. It's just that area is down to the primer, and the surrounding is paint.

So am wondering, is there some sort of spray to be able to fill in this, or should bog be applied and sanded down?

6. When painting, should I do streaks parallel to the C Pillar? or just do horizontal ones working my way down the C Pillar.

[da_foles]

Cheers chuck.

Anyone know where I can buy the plastic interior clips used for internal lining. Also these plastic stud type things with philips head in them that held the front bar onto car frame. I had to cut them off as we could not get them out.

Broke a piece of the rear spoiler it cracked it looks as though it is plaster of Paris? Can it be repaired like glued sanded then painted or will the crack show through?

Might have to get another part from the wreckers.

[pac]

clips from repco, supercheap or more expensive at toyota. spoiler is either fibreglass or plastic either way easy to repair depending on where the damage is. if it is cracked it will be most likely fibreglass which you will need filler mix that is fibre based again at supercheap etc

[da_foles]

clips from repco, supercheap or more expensive at toyota. spoiler is either fibreglass or plastic either way easy to repair depending on where the damage is. if it is cracked it will be most likely fibreglass which you will need filler mix that is fibre based again at supercheap etc

Cheers PAC. Yeah it is a chalky flaky type material it is defiantly not plastic and not really fibre glass. Not sure what it is to be honest it has cracked right through will post a photo.

[da_foles]

here are the pics

[pac]

it looks like polyurethane like a rubber and really not much you can do. if it is i would get a tube off sikaflex high strength adhesive, comes in black or white and can be painted over