The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

Yeah mate, I feel your pain with the weather in Canberra. Best home solution, is to find one of the gas tubo heaters, a cylindrical drum type. Heat the garage for an hour, shut the heater down, and lay the paint on. I would also only do this in the middle of the day, when the humidity is low, with nil chance of rain.

The other solution, is to hire a booth at a spray shop, cost could be as low as $100.00 per hour, you would have to have the car taken to the booth by tilt tray truck.

Just a quick thought, last time I was in Bunnings, they have a reactangular shaped turbo heater that would do the heating job adequately. About $150.00, if you buy one of these, I will buy it of you when you are done with it.

Cheers Chuck.

[Gibbon]

A couple of noob questions before I start painting.

1 - I'll be painting the plastic bumpers ( MA61 ) - and I got some of the plastic preparation paint. After applying the preparation paint - should I then spray with the primer / filler - or just straight to color?

2 - The instructions on the tin for the primer / filler say allow between 5 to 10 minutes between coats. Is that the same for the color ( acrylic lacquer )

3 - The door handles are some sort of hard plastic ( which I also intend to paint ) - will they require the plastic preparation as well? Same for the mirrors - they are also some sort of hard plastic.

Thanks for any advice.

[munkey]

Ok - I really need some advice please.

The quote to get it painted is way more than my allowed budget ( about $1500 more ).

IAm I stuck - anyone have any other ideas?

Hit up the overtime at work, throw your old parts on ebay and eat noodles for a couple of weeks, That should get you closer to that $1500 budget blow out and let them puff the paint on

["Z" UTE]

A couple of noob questions before I start painting.

1 - I'll be painting the plastic bumpers ( MA61 ) - and I got some of the plastic preparation paint. After applying the preparation paint - should I then spray with the primer / filler - or just straight to color?

2 - The instructions on the tin for the primer / filler say allow between 5 to 10 minutes between coats. Is that the same for the color ( acrylic lacquer )

Depending on temperature and humidity


3 - The door handles are some sort of hard plastic ( which I also intend to paint ) - will they require the plastic preparation as well? Same for the mirrors - they are also some sort of hard plastic.

Thanks for any advice.

The plastic "preperation paint", is only needed on bare plastic. You will find the door handles and mirrors already have factory paint, just scuff them back with 320-800 then apply the new colour. However if you have any bog repairs you will have to use the primer.

So for a damaged bumper, repair with bog or plastic weld, then spray only the bare areas of plastic with the plastic prep, then prime, sand, colour coat, and clear coat if necessary.

You have to watch the surface of the paint, to ascertain whether it has dried off sufficiently betwen coats, ie. look for a drop in the gloss level, you will know when it has had enough time to dry (flash off). When doing small parts, do a single coat and walk away for a piss/cuppa/whatever, come back and give the parts another coat, then walk away again. The temptation to lay too many coats of paint on without sufficient drying time is what will stuff the job up. Runs and sags are fugly and a bitch to remove on smaller things like mirrors and door handles. Do not be a fairy and put dust coats down, or you will there all day, put down a decent layer of paint with each coat. Just take your time, and do not rush, and you will be OK.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

The plastic "preperation paint", is only needed on bare plastic. You will find the door handles and mirrors already have factory paint, just scuff them back with 320-800 then apply the new colour. However if you have any bog repairs you will have to use the primer.

If the MA61 runs the same setup as the RA6x, then the mirrors and door handles will be bare black plastic. This would require the plastic primer first. So check for OEM paint first.

[ian]

hi gibbon
are you are going to use an acrylic ? . if you use 2pac with a fast hardener you may get away with just heating the shed
if its a dark color it may bloom (patchy milky appearance ) light colors you dont see it

[Gibbon]

Yes - I'll be using acrylic.

o_man_ra23 - The door handles and mirrors are just plastic - no oem paint on them - I've given them a coat of the plastic preparation. Also did the bump strips that go along the sides as well.

Ready to go - just need it to stop raining !!



( that spot is from the camera )

The plan is to give it a coat of the filler / primer. Spray with the black guide coat - rub back until flat - and then apply 5-6 coats of the white.

Sound about right?

[o_man_ra23]

All except you will have to repeat the spray with filler then guide then rub section a few times until you stop rubbing through the filler. Best case scenario, allow for 3 attempts... could be more.

[Gibbon]

Results after day one of spraying - the finish was really rough - especially on the roof - I'm thinking that it's the over-spray as I had the garage door closed to keep the heat in.

Gave it a quick rub back with 600 and it came up nice and smooth



That's only the first coat so far - more today if it's warm enough.

[o_man_ra23]

rough surface is often indicative of not enough thinner/reducer. Even with primer I got a fairly good surface on initial application (2pak).

The other thing to check is the gun cleanliness. On a previous application I used a suction gun, with a blocked breather and got rough surface results (acrylic). Was like sandpaper, but came up ok with a sand.

[Gibbon]

Filler / primer finished - and sprayed with the guide coat.



I started blocking back with 320 - and I'll finish with some 600 - and it's coming up nice and flat - without going through the primer. - Pretty happy with that !!

[love ke70]

are you using a block or your hand?

[Gibbon]

are you using a block or your hand?

A block - it wouldn't be flat otherwise??

[Gibbon]

So I'll be spraying the color very soon. I've been using a 1.8 tip for the primer. Should I change to a smaller ( say 1.6 ) for the color - or use the same size.

The instructions on the color tin say to mix with 150% thinners.

thanks

[hamgatan]

1.3mm max. 1.6 will be a bit too big IMHO..