The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

Cuzzo, you can use acrylic or 2pak primer, as either will work under 2pak. Hi fill is only required if you want to get an exceptionally straight panel. Engine bay has so many different lines it would be a waste of effort. If you can lay the colour on asap after the primer you can eliminate sanding the primer. Engine bay plus sanding = major PITA.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

We finally had good weather for a change (the fact it didn't rain for Easter is a miracle in itself, let alone having 2 good weeks after about 18 months of rain). It decided to break that spell last night, however I did manage the following on Sunday (started spraying about 11am after a massif yo sand-a-thon) and packed up the last of the gear about 11pm.

I think I had the pressure too high on the clear, as it is extremely mottly and there was a lot more overspray that I would expect from an LVLP gun. I'll play with that after I wet sand and get ready for the second coat of clear. There are also a couple of really nasty spots where the paint got savaged by a very tired hombre with perhaps a bit of excessive inexperience. I'll sand these flat and touch them with colour before the second coat of clear.

Overall, the job is good from afar, but thus far, far from good.







The colours were really good right up to the last moment before clear. There is a spot in the orange on one of the rear qtrs where my pants rubbed on it as I was doing the roof, I'll block it flat and touch it up (unless of course doing so will kill me with a fry up?? Thoughts?? I would have thought with the paint being only a few days old, it should go on without fry up.

[Nickp28]

Looks awesome in the pictures Owen. Hope that you can sort out the clear
What i got up to on the weekend:


Came out pretty good considering it was dad and mines first go at painting the finish colour on a car. We did however get a couple of runs on the lower part of the back of the cab, so from reading the previous page soak 2000 or 3000 in soapy water then rub with a sanding block to get rid of them??
Nick

[o_man_ra23]

You probably give more of a shit about your hilux than I do about mine, however I would leave the runs there on mine and be happy it isn't rust coloured...

Looks pretty good though, the ol girl should be nice and shiny till the first real offroad adventure

[twentyEight]

We finally had good weather for a change (the fact it didn't rain for Easter is a miracle in itself, let alone having 2 good weeks after about 18 months of rain). It decided to break that spell last night, however I did manage the following on Sunday (started spraying about 11am after a massif yo sand-a-thon) and packed up the last of the gear about 11pm.

I think I had the pressure too high on the clear, as it is extremely mottly and there was a lot more overspray that I would expect from an LVLP gun. I'll play with that after I wet sand and get ready for the second coat of clear. There are also a couple of really nasty spots where the paint got savaged by a very tired hombre with perhaps a bit of excessive inexperience. I'll sand these flat and touch them with colour before the second coat of clear.

Overall, the job is good from afar, but thus far, far from good.

The colours were really good right up to the last moment before clear. There is a spot in the orange on one of the rear qtrs where my pants rubbed on it as I was doing the roof, I'll block it flat and touch it up (unless of course doing so will kill me with a fry up?? Thoughts?? I would have thought with the paint being only a few days old, it should go on without fry up.

Your paint will fry unless you leave it for a few weeks min... The sooner, the worse!

With the "mottly" looking clear (looks like orange peel in the pics IMO), it looks like a couple of things from the pics. Could be that the clear needed a little more thinners in the mix (remember the mix specs from the paint co. are just a guide). Also looks as though you could have benefitted from a slightly higher flow, you might have been wary of runs.

["Z" UTE]

I think I had the pressure too high on the clear, as it is extremely mottly and there was a lot more overspray that I would expect from an LVLP gun. I'll play with that after I wet sand and get ready for the second coat of clear. There are also a couple of really nasty spots where the paint got savaged by a very tired hombre with perhaps a bit of excessive inexperience. I'll sand these flat and touch them with colour before the second coat of clear.

Overall, the job is good from afar, but thus far, far from good.



The colours were really good right up to the last moment before clear. There is a spot in the orange on one of the rear qtrs where my pants rubbed on it as I was doing the roof, I'll block it flat and touch it up (unless of course doing so will kill me with a fry up?? Thoughts?? I would have thought with the paint being only a few days old, it should go on without fry up.

Was the paint all acrylic? if so fry up should not be a problem. However if the clearcoat is 2pak. ie COB, then any attempt to re apply colour over a feathered edge will turn into a monumental headf#@%.

Overall you got a fairly uniform coat of colour and clear, just add some more thinners to the clear. If it is acrylic, you can use 10% clear and 90% thinners for the final coat. If you have more than one coat of clear on there, I would simply suggest you colour sand it and buff it rather than adding another layer of clear.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

There is only 1 layer of clear - at 11pm I wasn't going to risk a knock on the door from the po-po for noise pollution.

It is a COB system. The manu specs had and indication of up to 10% thinning, I went to that 10%. It was also a fairly cool evening, so too much temperature wasn't an issue. The mottly look is far worse than orange peel in some areas. You may be onto something about not putting enough flow in (though I do think I had the pressure about 5psi too high)

I really would like to be able to block back 3 spots and re-apply some colour to get a decent result on those eyesores (they really do make the whole job look like shit as is - there are several other minor imperfections due to bugs etc that I am not really worried about and won't bother fixing). If I can't then I will look at stickers to fix up the issues. Simon, if I let it sit for 3 weeks, then feather back and re-apply colour using multiple ultra light coats, would this prevent fry up??

[jcs1987]

Looks awesome in the pictures Owen. Hope that you can sort out the clear
What i got up to on the weekend:


Came out pretty good considering it was dad and mines first go at painting the finish colour on a car. We did however get a couple of runs on the lower part of the back of the cab, so from reading the previous page soak 2000 or 3000 in soapy water then rub with a sanding block to get rid of them??
Nick

what paint is that?

[o_man_ra23]

if the clearcoat is 2pak. ie COB, then any attempt to re apply colour over a feathered edge will turn into a monumental headf#@%.

This statement yielded me the theorum that resulted in success. It is the clear that causes the problem with respray, something I didn't know before, and would have massifly helped me prior to spraying (would have cut the clear back on all edges, have fry up in some places where engine bay, door jambs etc meet with the rest of the job). I blocked back the 3 main problem areas until all clear was gone, and using a very small flow and a fine fan, I sprayed ever so light coats ensuring that I didn't get too close to the feathered edges.

Although I now have a dark patch in the orange, and there are two spots on the black which will net a semi-visible blemish, the overall result is that the faults in the paintwork won't be noticeable until you are closer than 5 metres from the car. I'm pleased enough with the correction. I also fixed up the worst of the fry ups, but have decided to leave the others be as I would probably cock them up to a worse state than they currently are in. So all is looking good to pop the second coat of clear on maybe Friday night (nice thin coat), and drop the third on Saturday morning. If I have paint leftover, I'll do a fourth. I'll need more clear for trim pieces, but it is easy enough to purchase in a small kit for that purpose.

Thanks for the help fellas.

[o_man_ra23]

Hmm... may be re-thinking that re-clearing. The colour repairs came up great, blended well and just look like minor recesses where I sanded too much in one spot. Put clear on, and the feathered area seemed partially ok, but where I had just prepped and painted without sanding fried up like a mofo. Supposedly should be able to put this clear over itself with only a clean up not sanding within the first 7 days... unless of course it means I have to clean it with a special fluid and not just wax/grease remover??

What would be my best option?? Clear is sandable/reworkable after 24 hours, and fully cures in 7 days. Should I leave it 3 weeks, sand and re-clear?? It does need re-clearing, it is waaay too thin to think about leaving it.

["Z" UTE]

Owen, I would leave it for the 7 to 10 days, then give it a sand down with 800 wet, then recoat with the clear. If you are having to paint late in the evening, consider using a different hardner. ie a fast hardner will set up quicker and begin curing faster.

The trick here is to try different amounts of each hardner. Lets say you subtract 10% to 20% of the normal hardner and add 10% to 20% fast hardner.

You will also find that if you add another 5-10% reducer, you will improve the flow from the gun, improve flow out/levelling of the paint, and your gloss level will improve as well. Believe me you will be stunned at the lack of sanding required if you use my mixing ratio's.

That 10% reducer as stated by your paint manufacturer is only a starting point, you can and should adjust for your individual conditions from there.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

10% is their stated maximum When I put 20% in last night, it was perfect for horizontal surfaces, but I'm not so sure for verticals, due to runs. Might do a 15% mix, transfer some to a smaller pot and add another 5% reducer, use that for the bonnet and roof, then use the thicker mix for the rest. Sound fair??

I've gotta go out of town for work next week, so I'll rub it back this weekend and spray it next. The weather has been pretty kind lately, we are getting temps between about 19 and 27 degrees, fairly perfect really, with much lower than normal humidity (70% rather than 95%).

["Z" UTE]

Owen, good on horizontal, but runs on vertical, means you have the mix correct, you just have to adjust your gun travel speed up for the vertical panels. Gun handling technique comes with experience, remember what went wrong and adjust your technique to counter the problem.


For anyone who is suffering the dreaded manufacturers recommended percentage of reducer, or thinners please remember that their recommended/stated quantity is for the perfect conditions that are dialled up in a spray booth.
You will have to adjust the thinning ratio, to compensate for air temperature, and temperature of the part that is being painted.


cheers Chuck.

[Supra967]

Hey all, if i can help it this isn't a spray painting question, but hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

Long story short I hadn't washed my project car for 3 years, under the nice layer of dirt i found this: (big and crappy phone pic)



Looks like little rust pimples. I've got them on anything that was horizontal, which is the top of the rear quaters, rear wing and base of hatch Looks like the kind on thing that will explode if it isn't patched up soon.

Not in any position to be doing re-sprays really. Was thinking of just sanding back the rusty parts and brushing some primer over the top as a temp fix/selaer. Sound reasonable? I should be able to sand it all back and paint properly later?

[o_man_ra23]

What about ripping it back, treating it, then brushing on some POR15 or the equivalent KBS Coatings product?? That would be reasonably quick and easy, doesn't require a booth, and will last quite some time. Just make sure you tape up anything you don't want paint on real well. I suggest getting an end of roll from the local newspaper printer, last one cost me $2 and I only used half of it to cover anything and everything on the car 3-4 times.