The Spray Painting Thread

**1JZ-Rolla** · 13-04-2011, 11:44 PM

Thanks for the quick (and late at night!) response Chuckster, I had a feeling you might be the first to respond

Was hoping you'd say that, i've got a large roll of the scotchbrite pad here, will be much easier than guide coating and blocking back, given the timeframe.

Good advice as always mate, Cheers

P.S i've got plenty of the 2K white here, so might just use that for the inside of the guards for dubbo, Can always scuff it back and go with your tray liner textured paint if it proves too easy to chip in future.

**1JZ-Rolla** · 14-04-2011, 07:43 PM

Had a crazy moment working on the car tonight.... think bugs in your paint are annoying? Try a Willy Wagtail bird deciding to join you in the garage, being stupid enough to not be able to find its way out, going bezerk for a while smacking into the inside of the roof, while spraying ass-piss over your freshly primed and blocked back panels......

not happy Jan!

On a technical note however, do you guys re-mask your cars for topcoat, or leave the same setup from priming and blocking back the car? I'm at the stage where i'm ready to lay 2K single stage topcoat (Heron white), and can blow the residual dust off the masking paper with an air nozzle, but am I asking for trouble? I'm dreading the thought of stripping all of the masking off, only to redo it straight away.

**"Z" UTE** · 14-04-2011, 08:05 PM

Phil, if you have primed right up to the tape, you may want to pull the tape off and feather the edge with a quick rubdown with 800. You will end up with a little primer line showing when you pull the tape from the new paint. That is quite acceptable in a windscreen opening, but not too many other places that are not covered by trim.

If the masking is just dust covering and the paint has not gone near it, by all means leave it on.

Fresh tape is always easier to remove at the completion of a spray job, and will not tear and leave dags behind as you carefully remove the mask just as the paint is going off.

Mother nature has some funny critters, I had a moth attracted to the sparks from the grinder this evening, pest would not leave me alone.

cheers Chuck.

**1JZ-Rolla** · 14-04-2011, 08:20 PM

Chuck, none of the tape edges are painted, they just separate door edge from quarter panel (with door jamb inbetween) etc, so I might be able to get away with leaving it? I'd imagine they are holding some residual dust, but no more than I am going to end up with from the general garage floor, surrounds, whatever (I will mop the floor though)

Have you had the big bogong moths at your place also? stubborn buggers, they don't want to be removed either!

**"Z" UTE** · 14-04-2011, 08:30 PM

Phil, give everthing a blow over with the air dusting pistol, wipe the surfaces down with some warm water and sugar soap, squeeze the cloth so it is almost dry, befor you wipe down. That will guarantee no dust problems. Your existing tape will be fine.

Yeah definately Bogong or BOGAN time,

cheers Chuck.

**1JZ-Rolla** · 14-04-2011, 08:32 PM

Good plan. will do.

Cheers

**1JZ-Rolla** · 17-04-2011, 09:52 PM

Thanks again for your advice, I am more than happy to say I'M DONE WITH THE GUN! Finally got the rest of my painting done today.

An interesting learning experience, having not used 2 pack before, and having only really sprayed once to do my bonnet in acrylic clear over base previously. Ended up with a few dust specs to block out, and more texture than I would have liked (probably could have reduced the paint down a bit more) but overall am pretty relieved and satisfied with the result. Don't have pics of the rear quarters yet since it got dark before I had a chance with the car outside.

**"Z" UTE** · 18-04-2011, 11:37 AM

Looking good Phil, well done. Painting is certainly a lot of work, but good results sure make the effort worthwhile.

cheers Chuck.

**RPM016T** · 22-04-2011, 06:07 PM

Hey guys,

Can anyone recommend the cheapest places to buy spray guns online? im probably looking at spending $100-$200, the quality of my painting will at best be a 'well done-amateur' job, so i'd like to select the gun appropriately. At this stage i'm only going to undercoat the bare metal with a 2K primer and leave the bodywork and top coat up to the proffesionals. Would also be interesting to know if there were any cheap online supplies of paint as well?

Cheers!

**ta22fan** · 22-04-2011, 08:43 PM

I am by no means any kind of expert - but just finished painting my TA22, so can offer this advice FWIW. If you are only going to do the primer/undercoat - I think you'll find that any cheap gun will do the job well enough. If you are just going to do etch primer and primer - something like a 1.7mm tip works well. If you need to do spray putty - a 2-3mm tip would be better. I bought myself a basic gun from Autocheap for the undercoat (about $70 I think) - worked fine. Purchased a rather better gun for the colour and clear.

Paul

**RPM016T** · 22-04-2011, 09:03 PM

This looks like a good all rounder (not that i have any idea), seems like its not too cheap but not too expensive lol. I think the fact it has 1.4, 2.0, 2.5mm tips should make it pretty versatile. It'll probably only do the one car and a few small odd jobs

http://www.diytools.com.au/Spray-Gun...01EF3499A.html

**Casey-G** · 23-04-2011, 03:05 AM

im spraying the kse(v)x in the coming months wish us luck gents

**Z2TT** · 25-04-2011, 01:52 PM

Hello,

I was spraying some cam covers. I sanded them down and cleaned them up then put few coats of VHT Prime Coat, after that I put VHT Engine Enamel Black on as the colour, it says they can be handled after 3 hours, well I left them for 2 days, and when I picked them up and turnedt hem upside downt o put them on a rag so i can put the oil seals on, the rag left wrinkles on the paint.

Just wondering what's up, is VHT Paint no good or does the cure time vary?

**"Z" UTE** · 25-04-2011, 02:11 PM

Bung them in the oven at 180 degrees C for an hour, let them cool then colour sand the wrinklles out.

By the way, you did know that engine enamel is designed to utilize the heat of the engine to cure?

cheers Chuck.

**Cuzzo** · 25-04-2011, 04:50 PM

Yeah was going to say you need to use heat.

Question guys.
I need to paint a corolla engine bay. It's currently got some fresh niki in spots, bare metal and acrylic paint in others.

What do I use to primer? Should I use a primer filler first? I want to paint it in 2pak but I'm up for opinions on 2pak or acrylic just for the bay. The rest of the.car will be 2pak.
Cheers.