The Spray Painting Thread

[o_man_ra23]

of two 6 year old 1L tins, one has formed a skin on top but is liquid underneath (maybe lid not sealed), the other has separated, but after a quick stir looks fine...

Is that POR15, or other normal paints? POR15 is different to normal paints as it sets with humidity.

[oldcorollas]

aw shiit.. it's not POR, it's the Killrust shit...
sorry, i'm nto really keeping up with threads anymore.

ignore my comments above...


either way, seal the tin properly and it should last a while...

[o_man_ra23]

either way, seal the tin properly and it should last a while...

I didn't get to checking my tin. Might head out and do it now. Either way, POR15 (and KBS equivalent) are unlike any other paint you have ever used, and the same rules don't necessarily apply to it.

[xa-mont]

did you get a chance to check out your POR Owen?

[wirysage]

POR is a epoxy based paint btw

[o_man_ra23]

I didn't open it, however since it comes as a watery consistency liquid, and when I shook the tin there wasn't much sloshing (sounded like almost honey in there), I don't think there's any hope for trying to use it.

[oldcorollas]

hmm thought i'd check...
from MSDS

TRADE NAMES/SYNONYMS: POR-15 Rust Paint, POR-15 Paint

CHEMICAL NAME: Isocyanate Prepolymer based on MDI
CHEMICAL FAMILY: Solution Aromatic Isocyanates (26447-40-5)
FORMULA: Mixture

II. HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS
Diphenylmethane Diisocyanate(MDI)(26447-40-5)%:ca 20
Naptha Petroleum (68333-23-3)

MDI is Methylene Diphenyl Isocyanate...

Polyisocyanate Prepolymer based on MDI Trade Secret —
2 Aromatic Polyisocyanate based on MDI Trade Secret
3 Aromatic Naphtha
4 Proprietary Prepolymer Trade Secret
5 Aliphatic Naphtha
6 Methylene Bisphenyl Isocyanate (MDI)
9 Methylene Diphenyl Diisocyanate (Crude MDI)
11 Polymeric Diphenlmethane Polyisocyanate
12 Hydrotreated Heavy Petroleum Naphtha

so it looks like POR is actually a moisture curing polyurethane paint (ie isocyanates), but still contains solvents (various napthas)

and for White Knight Rust Guard..

turps, alkyd resin, epoxy esters, white spirit

which is a kind of 1 part epoxy...

[o_man_ra23]

Ok, based on that info, I won't be spraying POR again... I'll stick with brushing it on.

[oldcorollas]

still safe with the right PPE.
organic catridge for the solvents, plus a HEPA dust filter to be sure to catch the overspray.... is probably ok for the short term use backyarder.

I would recommend you check the MSDS for any chemical you use, and wear the right PPE to avoid unwanted exposure.

[Megz]

Ok guys I need some advice and I thought this would be the best place to ask (as well as me searching Google).

My flat mate and I are currently building our Ke25, seen here:

* We have got rid of the front which is on it in the pic, standard guards with flares and front apron will be put on it.

Now, when we bought the shell, it had been bead blasted, 2pac primered inside and out, sprayed 2pac silver in the engine bay and underneath, then left under a carport as the previous owner gave up. So we are slowly cutting out the bits of rust and welding new sections in (our welding skills aren't the best, but slowly getting better). The problems we have are:

1) as the underneath is 2pac silver - this is not a show car and will not even be close - I am thinking that a protective coating should be put over this silver or completely replace the silver, to protect it for the long run. Would it be best to scuff the current paint then coat with an under-body spray? Or remove all the paint and spray under-body spray onto bare-metal?

2) Also, as the 2pac primer is already done, would this require just a rub back, fill any necessary dents/imperfections with filler, then proceed to spray 2pac primer again and do prep work for the 2pac topcoat? or would it be necessary to get rid of all the primer and start again?

Please keep in mind, that this is not going to be close to a show car and the our space is quite restricted (no chance of getting a rotisserie to work on it).

We just would like any thoughts or comments to help us establish what is necessary to see how far back we have to go to prep the body/fix the current paint, for an OK paint job, which will last a few years.

Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers

Mick

["Z" UTE]

Megz, a bitumous underbody spray can be applied over the cured 2pak paint without any prep other than washing/wiping any loose crud off.

No need to remove the 2pak primer, do your repairs and prime those areas. When all repair work is done apply a guide coat to sand off and see what you missed. Nicky up those small inperfections sand and spot prime. Ensure all the primer has been sanded prior to applying a top coat of colour. Any unsanded primer will not provide a "key for the new paint ".

[Cuzzo]

What type of paint should i use for the guide coat?

I currently have 2 pak primer down.

["Z" UTE]

Cuzzo, use chaep as chips matt black acrylic spray can. One can will do the entire car. Hold the can about 2 feet away from the panels and let the paint mist onto the panels. Being acrylic over 2pak will not matter, as you will be sanding all the guide coat off. Just do not use enamel spray cans.

cheers Chuck.

[Cuzzo]

Awesome exactly what i needed to know.

Research wouldnt tell me if it should be acrylic or enamel.

[Megz]

Megz, a bitumous underbody spray can be applied over the cured 2pak paint without any prep other than washing/wiping any loose crud off.

No need to remove the 2pak primer, do your repairs and prime those areas. When all repair work is done apply a guide coat to sand off and see what you missed. Nicky up those small inperfections sand and spot prime. Ensure all the primer has been sanded prior to applying a top coat of colour. Any unsanded primer will not provide a "key for the new paint ".

Z - Thanks for the help, it is much appreciated. When you say, "prime those areas", I assume that would be 2pac prime?

Cheers

Mick