The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

Thanks all, tried today without the filter bit and worked a treat. This time around the finish over the repairs looks pretty good but wont know until I guide coat it and start sanding. I forgot to mask up the front wheel! Can I use some thinners on the tyre you reckon?

I did get some runs in the hifill primer though. Is this just because I suck? I tried turning the fluid down but then it was sandy, but then added more fluid and got a nice finish but with some big runs.
Also at one stage after refilling the gun with more primer it was spraying out like chunks of primer and made a mess of the finish. This seemed to go away though and then ran nice for the rest of the job. Would hate for that to happen with the colour.

So far I have primed the front and around the door frame.

Just to get this correct.. I now block back with a big sanding board and can I confirm what grades I start and finish with when blocking back the hifill? Do I have to prime again, or can I put colour straight over the blocked back hifill? Assuming I don't go back to metal/nikki anywhere.

Joel, thinners on a cloth will remove most of the overspray on the wheel.

The paint in the pot probably developed a skin, when the new primer was added to the pot it broke that up, the heavy bits sank to the bottom of the pot and wallah lumpy spray.

Long board with 120 paper followed by 320 then reprime if you have to. ie. if you break through to metal or bog.

If no reprimeing is required continue sanding with 800 then whack your colour coat on.

cheers Chuck.

[TurboRA28]

Thanks awesome info as usual. So any tips for stopping the old paint in pot problem? As I am finding I have to refill a lot.

[ian]

hi joel
are you using a gravity fed or a suction gun ?
i havnt read through all the post's
ian

[TurboRA28]

Gravity fed gun.


Other good news is I found someone with a 7m x 7m carport I can paint under. Maybe pin up some tarps on the sides. Help keep the job a bit cleaner.

["Z" UTE]

Joel, I only ever fill my pot to about 2/3, swirl the pot occassionaly, but try to keep the air vent in the cap clear. Have you thought about maybe hiring a large pressure pot from COATES or somesuch hire firm. Probably need a quite large compressor to keep it charged.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

I don't refill until the pot is empty, and I do a quick clean with thinners between fills. This doesn't apply with single part paints (ie basecoat, acrylic etc) as they don't have a chemical reaction to worry about. 2k paint will chunk up between fills. Best bet when doing large areas is to try and get a full coat out of one mix and not have any leftover. Not always possible, and usually takes quite a bit of fiddling with quantities.

[wirysage]

I seriously can't understand how car paint survives in heavly polluted parts of the world. Considering that if I wanted to I could go to town on a persons car with some carby/brake cleaner and totally ruin the paintwork. Clear coat is so easily damaged

[bigmat]

just a quicky. to strip back panel to metal would i use flapper wheel or paint stripper.

cheers mat

[o_man_ra23]

Your choice. I chose the graffiti remover pad. They wear through reasonably quick, but strip paint very nicely.

["Z" UTE]

Do not use the flapper disc, too prone to removing metal, as they are designed to do just that. The grafitti removal birdsnest thingy $12.00 ea at Bunnings are the go. Just do not overwork any one section of the panel at one time, the heat generated can cause warping.

If you decide to use stripper, mask the edges of the panel with some aluminium tape, to prevent the paint stripper rolling over the edge of the panel, and destroying the paint on the underside of the panel. Simple enough to sand the paint away that was concealed by the aluminium tape. (We all used lead tape back in the day, but it is no longer available for some reason.)

cheers Chuck.

[Cuzzo]

Paint stripper leaves the metal chemicals? under the paint intact...Stops it rusting without paint (well prolongs)

Graffiti removal tool will allow it to rust unpainted.

[bigmat]

cheers and paint stripper sounds good clean and well easier.

thanks mat

["Z" UTE]

Paint stripper leaves the metal chemicals? under the paint intact...Stops it rusting without paint (well prolongs)

That is true, as long as your metalic scrapeing tools have not scored the surface. If that is the case the rust appears extremely quickly.

Before applying paint stripper, the surface gloss should be knocked back, this accelerates the action of the paint stripper. Applying paint stripper to a wholey intact gloss paint surface on a car will result in very poor penetration of the paint by the stripper, and poor stripping action.

Covering the paint stripper with glad wrap reduces the evaporation of the chemicals and generally means you only need to apply the stripper once.

cheers Chuck.

[bigmat]

so a quick sand with some paper then stripper her with chemicals, wrap it up in plastic and scrap it with plastic scrapers if i can find some that dont melt. cool and cheers about the tape aswell.

thanks mat

[twentyEight]

Breather hole on the top of the pot could be clogged up also.

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