The Spray Painting Thread

[twentyEight]

Rear wing? As in not metal?

If so, then it won't be rust bubbles, could be a multitude of other things.

[o_man_ra23]

Looks like the top of the rear qtrs per the bottom section of his post Simon.

Hmm... best to give it a hit with some cutting polish to see if it isn't just a surface blemish prior to ripping it back to metal??

[Supra967]

yeah i didn't think the wing was metal either. It's not bubbles, feels kind of like stubble. We live fairly close to a mine and a bit further to a coke works so I thought it might be something metallic in the dust? Either way I can't scratch it off, looks to have got into the paint. Better photo help? Or is it same result anyway, rub back and prime?

o_man - is the treatment the 'metal ready' stuff? Do i need to rub the POR15 right back later to paint over it?

["Z" UTE]

Looks like tree sap. Grab some eucalyptus oil and cloth and give a section a clean. If it comes off problem solved.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

POR15 just needs to be scuffed with 240 grit for overcoating. 'metal ready' is the PPC brand (same brand as POR15) rust converter. It does seem to work quite well though.

[twentyEight]

yeah i didn't think the wing was metal either. It's not bubbles, feels kind of like stubble. We live fairly close to a mine and a bit further to a coke works so I thought it might be something metallic in the dust? Either way I can't scratch it off, looks to have got into the paint. Better photo help? Or is it same result anyway, rub back and prime?

o_man - is the treatment the 'metal ready' stuff? Do i need to rub the POR15 right back later to paint over it?

It's definitely not rust then, don't even bother with the POR15 for this.

Go to your local Autobarn/AutoOne/Reco etc and buy some Detailing Clay. Wet car with hose, and use the clay to remove what has been deposited.

It will either be tree sap, Coke residue, or many other things. It's easily removed, but you will probably need to give it a cut and polish afterwards to remove any staining that the residue leaves behind.

[Supra967]

Good news i think. Thanks guys, will try that clay out this weekend and see how it goes.

[o_man_ra23]

Claybar is teh bombzorz for getting crap out of paint. We use it on the wife's Rolla, and it did a great job of removing the tar that's been splattering due to all the roadworks. Even the bug and tar remover we have doesn't lift tar like claybar.

Fingers crossed it isn't anything too nasty.

[oldcorollas]

damn this rain.... I want to get out and make a terrible mess of a paintjob

also.. so if you have shit underlying materials, and no choice... if the initial primer and then spray putty layers don't fry.. are you home free?

with thinning paint.. is it better to thin out say.. 1L of primer, then use what you need and store rest in glass jar or something else airtight?
I have nfi how much i will need for each step

[o_man_ra23]

My limited experience has been that the primer forms an isolation between the underlying coats and what you put on top. It can still fry, however if it doesn't, you're peachy. When I re-did one of the mirrors after clear coating, the first 2 light coats of primer fried badly, but I just rubbed them flat and kept with it, eventually it stopped going berzerk and a good finish came up in the end without frying.

["Z" UTE]

with thinning paint.. is it better to thin out say.. 1L of primer, then use what you need and store rest in glass jar or something else airtight?
I have nfi how much i will need for each step

Thoroughly stir the contents of the primer can, use a broad blade stirer and lift the sediment from the bottom of the can. Decant about 500-600ml into a mixing container (I use old thinners cans with the top cut out), add 10% thinners mix thoroughly, add another 20% and repeat the mixing, and so on until you achieve a mix of the desired consistency for spraying. I usually just tip the left over thinned mix back into the paint can. You are going to thin that anyway, so a bit of thinned paint will not hurt. Not such a good idea with any 2pak products!

An important thing to have handy when mixing and decanting paint, is a small paint brush or fitch brush. Use the brush to clean the lip of the can before you replace the lid, this ensures a pretty decent seal is maintained. Dried paint in the groove also tends to flake out when next you pour from the can.

Doing large jobs like a full car, you can buy 10 litre metal resealable empty cans from most domestic paint shops, about $12.00 a can. Ideal for mixing your full 4 litres of colour and all the thinners you need in one go. When you have emptied the four litre can of paint, you can rinse that with thinners to ensure you get all the pigment from the can. Goes a long way to maintain colour consistency.

cheers Chuck.

[sprinterfiend]

Hi,
Long time reader, first time poster.
Currently in the final stages of painting my first car.
A couple of tips from a beginners perspective.

>Coverage<
Coverage was very hard to get 100% as a newbie and the biggest problem for me.
A strong light source after each stage to go around all the edges and crevices making sure your
coverage is as it should be before moving on will save you a lot of swearing later.

>Get to know your gun<
At the beginning i blindly farted around with gun settings till seemed OK and went with it but got a
second rate job as a result.

Understanding all the adjusters on the gun properly and using a test panel or even the side of the shed like i
ended up doing to get it flowing right is well worth the time and paint.

This website is a good starting place to know how to set your gun if your unsure how everything
works.
http://www.minitruckinweb.com/tech/b...ics/index.html


These tips have probably been mentioned in some form already however as a first timer, doing it over again would
be much easier just by doing the above from the start.


That, and buying a 10 litre can for mixing... damn.

["Z" UTE]

The 10 litre can when not in use, makes an excellent stand for your 20 litre drum of thinners.

cheers Chuck.

[ian]

damn this rain.... I want to get out and make a terrible mess of a paintjob

also.. so if you have shit underlying materials, and no choice... if the initial primer and then spray putty layers don't fry.. are you home free?

with thinning paint.. is it better to thin out say.. 1L of primer, then use what you need and store rest in glass jar or something else airtight?
I have nfi how much i will need for each step

i always put unused paint that i want to use again in a airtight container , and put it in the beer fridge
i have successfully used 2 pac with the hardener in it 4- 5 days later and it still cured out ok

[oldcorollas]

woo! it's a sunny weekend.. time to get some sanding and prep done...
I will take a pic later for laughs.. it really is shit... but i keep reminding myself "all you need is colour"
but still, would be nice to minimise scratches, and have a half decent 20ft paint job.

sanding before primer and putty = 240 dry?

before i forget..
http://wwwvgautopaints-px.rtrk.com.a...Y-ST-BY-ST.jpg