For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[o_man_ra23]

Between the oil pump drive (often mistaken as a blockoff) and the timing cover, where the casting allows for the auxilliary shaft.

[auto351]

Found EIN under a mile of grime, when I purchased my car I was told it still had the original engine block turns out it has been changed out,

I was keeping the old motor thinking it has sentimental value.

so now I'm wondering if $1600 is to much to ask for the complete engine, Toyota ECU and loom, steel 5 speed box?

[timbosaurus]

Maybe a tad too much. Check out the most recent posts in the CCDT... it's got my opinion on RG prices. I'd say (depending on condition) somewhere between $1000-$1500 for a complete stock lo-comp 18RGUE would be more realistic. An RG is worth around 500 (shagged) to 1000 (rebuilt) depending on condition, but add the 88270 head (~$250), the EFI gear (~$300), and the gearbox (~$100) and you'll see how I came to that figue.

[o_man_ra23]

If it all runs well and the clutch is good, then yeah, $1600 isn't too ambitious. HOWEVER, if you needed to get through a mile of grime to read the engine number, I would say that the chances of it being nice inside are slim. So something closer to $1200 if it runs nicely would be a reasonable target, less if it runs like a bag of shit, or blows smoke, or has a nasty rattle (more than the usual timing chain rattle).

Because no engine history can be worked out, that engine is a risky proposition for any potential buyer.

[auto351]

will get some more info but it was reported as great when in the car and there was mention of internal work,
I haven't ruled out re-fitting this engine until I get the 1G completed.
thank you for the advise guys,

I may have exaggerated the mile of grim its was at most a 1/4 mile lol

[o_man_ra23]

The chassis of my ute was reported as great before I bought it... turned out to have about 5 repaired cracks, and I had to repair another 4 No rust though.

As for your motor, the best thing you can do is start it up, run it, warm it up, take it for a drive, check the compression etc etc. Find out what it is like, then you can tell people with as much honesty as possible what you think of the motor.

[Roscos]

Did someone in here need a green bible.. I can't remember where I read that someone was looking for one:

http://www.oztion.com.au/buy/auction...is=0&freepost=

Yep,it was me who was looking the green bible and l finally got one off egay after 3 attempts. the first went for $56. the second wanted $90 and l got one for $36+ $10 postage. Thanks to timbo for lending his while l got mind.


Roscos

[timbosaurus]

Thanks for dropping it back so quickly Mate!

I can't believe the prices these things are commanding. I think I got mine for $20 and it's in great condition!

[bnicho]

Thanks for dropping it back so quickly Mate!

I can't believe the prices these things are commanding. I think I got mine for $20 and it's in great condition!

Heh Heh, I got mine for $10+post on eBay a while ago because they advertised it as a
16R and 16RG manual!

[RAd28]

found THIS on eBay USA, if you look at the profile of the cam lobes there is a definate flat spot at the peak... is there any valid reason why you might WANT this? to me it looks like they've tried to make the rest of the profile as aggressive as possible, but just couldn't get the lift? i can only image this would lead to valve bounce central...

[roadkill]

Hmmmm, would be very interesting indeed. I don't really think you'd get much valve bounce as valve bounce is when it hits the seat in the head and bounces back off it causing gasses to escape during compression etc. I think that if the springs were strong enough it would be ok. Just looks like they are going for maximum height as early as possible and creating a longer duration at which the valve is completely opened. I've got pics here somowhere of my big 18rg cams and they are similar but definately more rounded than these. Would be interesting to see these cams at idle and at full noise!

bEn

[o_man_ra23]

There are limitations to how much lift you can get. Over compressing springs will greatly reduce their life, and over extending the valve may cause it to hit the crown of the piston. As Ben has pointed out, the cam looks to to have been made to hold maximum lift for the longest possible duration. It looks also that the leading edge of the lobe has a softer curve than the trailing edge. This would have been done to reduce/prevent valve overshoot, which is what Gerard was referring to with valve bounce. The sharp curve on the trailing edge wouldn't be a concern, as a strong set of springs should keep the bucket captive on the lobe.

[Javal]

Who wants some 18R-G parts?

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=46179

Head, block, inlet manifold and a heap of little bits.

Buy stuff so i can convert my car, dammit.

[RAd28]

Roadkill & Oman - I was always under the impression that valve bounce was when the valve/lifter parted with the cam lobe on lift... it was acctually demonstrated with a funky little animation, But i've just done some more searching, and it turns out the funky little animation was wrong (or i interpreted it wrong)... Yes.. valve FLOAT is what i would expect to see from those cams...

[o_man_ra23]

And that is why the lobe isn't symmetrical. Make sure you have strong springs for those cams though, and a set of dual or tripple valve springs will sort out the bounce by removing the harmonics.