ST215 3S-GTE running stock, what is most boost I can run?

[MWP]

ok it seems pretty easy, but the only thing im not sure is that if there will be any trouble because the gt4 is AFM based and the caldina is map?

Nope, MAP won't make any difference.

[JavierU]

Nope, MAP won't make any difference.

thanks havent done it yet, but will do it when i get the boost controller...

one more doubt i have, since the rods seems to be the problem on the 4th gen, can i use the 3rd gen? or do i have to buy 4th gen forged rods and pistons or what would be the best thing to do? i'm planning 22 psi max, so obviously cant do it stock so have to buy rods and maybe pistons?? will the 3rd gen fit?

[Cuts]

can use 3rd gen

[JavierU]

can use 3rd gen

ok, what other things i have to get? pistons? rods bolts? how much boost will it take?

[Cuts]

u could just get the rods, the cranks are different (gen4 has crank angle sensor)
if your changing shit like that you would chuck ARP bolts in as they arnt much more then factory ones and are better. Well ive ran more then 20 psi on my gen3 since ive owned it (its now been rebuilt with the stock rods and crank shot peened and lightened etc)

there is a guy on ozcelica that was running 28 psi on a stock unopened bottom end, so rest assured the earlier rods (before yours) are tough.

[JavierU]

u could just get the rods, the cranks are different (gen4 has crank angle sensor)
if your changing shit like that you would chuck ARP bolts in as they arnt much more then factory ones and are better. Well ive ran more then 20 psi on my gen3 since ive owned it (its now been rebuilt with the stock rods and crank shot peened and lightened etc)

there is a guy on ozcelica that was running 28 psi on a stock unopened bottom end, so rest assured the earlier rods (before yours) are tough.

ok, so the 3rd gen rods and ARP bolts will take more than 20 psi, is there any difference between pistons? will it take the boost? im thinking that if i open the engine for changing just rods, i might as well also do the pistons (to make it safe and having no worries about it)... but also mean more $$... whats the advice?

[Cuts]

3rd gen rods and stock bolts will handle more then 20 psi. Not sure of the difference in pistons. But with good tuning even stock pistons should handle some good boost.

if your opening it up deff do pistons, a set of acl forgies should cost you around the $6-700 mark.

[Haynesie]

Hey guys just Reading thru the thread and my 215 is running 14 psi all day the issue with running more on a stock set up is the jdm turbo. Jdm ct20's are ceramic coated not steel and pushing boost past 16psi is 1 outside the turbos efficiency and 2 threatens to discintergrate the ceramic turbine.
I agree with cuts if ur going to open it up do it properly and forge it! To run the kinda boost your proposing you would be silly not too. You also need to factor a fmic and fuel pump/injector upgrade as well as the 3s typically run lean and that is a major cause of fail on gen 3 and 4.

[JavierU]

Hey guys just Reading thru the thread and my 215 is running 14 psi all day the issue with running more on a stock set up is the jdm turbo. Jdm ct20's are ceramic coated not steel and pushing boost past 16psi is 1 outside the turbos efficiency and 2 threatens to discintergrate the ceramic turbine.
I agree with cuts if ur going to open it up do it properly and forge it! To run the kinda boost your proposing you would be silly not too. You also need to factor a fmic and fuel pump/injector upgrade as well as the 3s typically run lean and that is a major cause of fail on gen 3 and 4.

i agree with you, ive read a lot of forums and says the same, the jdm turbo will fail at 15-16 psi, im planning on using the gt28r with custom turboheaders, but, i dont know how to fit a fmic, havent found one yet, no idea what size...

also i have looked up some arias pistons and rods and arp bolts, still havent found a setup to look up, the factory ecu will take this mods? or will i have to think on buying an aftermarket ecu? witch brand?

how did you make it to run 14 psi all day? what fmic did you fit? custom piping? i suppose that you blocked the T-VSV and fit a boost controller to run the same boost all gears right?

[Haynesie]

Check out my thread haynesies st215 alot of what your asking is in that thread.
gt28r is a bit smallish for what your proposing to do.....Im am planning on running a gt3076r with a .6 rear and Im pretty sure cuts is using a gt3082.
Yeah I had to block the T-VSV line which is easliy done. Im using an E-Boost2 and cant fault it. I had my manifold made by 6boost and again was quality work and he now has a template for the gen 4.
My fmic measures 80x300x600 was not easy to fit as I had to cut the power steer cooling pipes from the front of radiator and re route and add a cooler also had to cut front bumper bar to fit. I would do the fmic first as the top mount suffers alot of heat soak so running alot of boost with this is not recommended. you will need an ecu and I prefer haltech. you will also need to beef up the fuel system ie bigger fuel pump and injectors to run big boost as the 3s tend to lean out and this is a major cause of fail particularly on gen 3 where there were alot with block casting faults that caused them to fail between the 2 and 3 cylinders.
Hope that helps

[deseroner]

well I have a mr2 with gen3 head and recently upgraded to gen4 short block, I have power fc ecu and all the bolts on , gt35r turbo, how much boost you guys think the st215 block can take I only plan on boosting 17-19psi on the track 100 octane.I also plan on upgrading the rods with eagle rods and st246 pistons.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wC2Z4cH41g

[steveauston]

im not sure if im too late on this post , but i have a 246 and was under the impresion that its the turbo that stops the advance of power.. the ceramics break at somewhere around 1.2-1.5 bar from what i have read.. the pistons are better than a 205..
the bits break of the turbo and go through the motor(thats what breaks the internals)
the idea seams to be to replace the ceramic turbo with a supra steal turbo.
ct26 i think.. (in the 246 i have to replace manafold aswell because it has the exhaust side of turbo integrated into the manafold)but not sure bout the 215?
but do know the 205 onward runs ceramic turbo.
but all said, the cars that i have seen , can run 1 bar easily without any trouble (exept the overboost fuel cut needs to be sorted out(factory boost cut )
an apexi fuel piggy back will give you 10whp without boosting more than standard plus upping boost to 1 bar should give a nice power increase,
or a greddy e-manage ultimate will sort out fuel cut and speed limiter plus more.
hope this is some help..

[deseroner]

hello, well I got eagle rods to mate with st246 pistons, got them o/s .5 , well I want to keep it oem, but with stronger rods, I read somewhere st246 are better than my pistons on my gen4 st215 block, if you know the difference between st215 pistons and st246 pistons. what material is toyota using on st246 pistons.I know rods are the same as beams and st215.

im not sure if im too late on this post , but i have a 246 and was under the impresion that its the turbo that stops the advance of power.. the ceramics break at somewhere around 1.2-1.5 bar from what i have read.. the pistons are better than a 205..
the bits break of the turbo and go through the motor(thats what breaks the internals)
the idea seams to be to replace the ceramic turbo with a supra steal turbo.
ct26 i think.. (in the 246 i have to replace manafold aswell because it has the exhaust side of turbo integrated into the manafold)but not sure bout the 215?
but do know the 205 onward runs ceramic turbo.
but all said, the cars that i have seen , can run 1 bar easily without any trouble (exept the overboost fuel cut needs to be sorted out(factory boost cut )
an apexi fuel piggy back will give you 10whp without boosting more than standard plus upping boost to 1 bar should give a nice power increase,
or a greddy e-manage ultimate will sort out fuel cut and speed limiter plus more.
hope this is some help..

[Cuts]

steveausten you are miss informed my friend.

its the rods on the gen4s that are weak (as proven by a couple of people on here who have busted them, and the turbos have been fine)

All aus delivered gtfours have steel wheeled turbos (185s included) its a gamble on anything import regarding if u score a steel wheel or not (even if it is a wrc/RC/CS)

I dont have any information regarding pistons, i assumed they were the same. But if your serious with your motor and you dont put aftermarket forgies in it your a tool (not directing that at anyone its a fact)

ceramic wheeled turbos are only reliable to 1 bar or so, any more and your living on borrowed time.

all gen4's have the same intigrated exhaust houseing/turbo manifold as the 246.

the 7mgte supras had a ct26 which was a single entry turbo
the st165 3s-gte had a single entry ct26
the 185/mr2 3s-gte had a twin entry ct26

[steveauston]

ok, cool.
was just repeating what ive read on net.
but what caused the rods to break?( overboosting or over reving? or poor tuning??)
detonation from poor tuning etc?
just asking.
and 15psi wouldnt or shouldnt be a problem in these motors.(says a lot of caldina owners in malaysia)
and i read the st205 came with ceramics, even the 77 ossie delivered ones???
i agree with you on replacing the rods and pistons if your planning on major power, however several asian guys have 250hp at wheels with stock internals , which is respectable power for a daily driver.
didnt mean to give bad advice(sorry guy)