So does the Repco bar apparently. Unfortunatley the new Sidchrome bar will probably be replaced several times in it's 99year warranty?!
Atleast bluepoint has lifetime warranty eh?
So does the Repco bar apparently. Unfortunatley the new Sidchrome bar will probably be replaced several times in it's 99year warranty?!
ive sheared a crank bolt like that before torquing it up.... (4ag 140nm) wouldnt move an inch and the moment i tapped it with the drill to start hitting it with an ezy out it came out finger tight... you know that scene in the simpsons when homer swears so loudly that the whole town hears it and it zooms out to all these scenes across the town with his swearing echoing over.... that was me when i snapped it. :S
Originally Posted by CLG
hahahahahahhaa Yeah im 6.3 and 110kg lol and repco tools FTW Lol Cant beat the life time warranty to. So clint when u commin to get one from me ? There cheap lol
Oh yeah my old man wasnt worried about the power bar im gettin a new one under warranty.
cheers nick
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89 GX81 Grande with manual single turbo 1jz
hahaha thank god for warrantyi guess the tools werent built for the hardcore treatment they received in your hands lol.
how many nm are those bolts meant to be btw, is it the 140nm posted above?
Fark you broke a Powerbar! That would have been my recommendation if I had stumbled onto this thread earlier. I found the powerbar to be immensely useful to get the pulley off my cressy back when I owned it.Originally Posted by CLG
1989 Toyota Cressida GLX 1JZGTE twin turbo *SOLD*
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2847
12.36 @ 111mph on eBay "China" CT12A steelies
244rwkw / 328hp @ 18psi
At least you got it out & didn't find out that because some bastard had broken the keyway in the past, that they'd simply welded the pulley on!!
Having same problem.
Tried 1/2" drive rattle gun with impact socket - nothing.
Tried breaker bar with extension smashing into a block of wood in the engine bay which is sitting on the chassis - nothing.
Added loctite freeze to the above - nothing.
Don't really want to heat it but not sure what next option should be? Car is auto so not sure how to stop engine from moving if I just use a breaker bar and hammer?
is the engine getting pulled down ?
you can pull a couple of plugs and fill the cylinders at BDC with oil and hydraulically lock the engine that will stop it turning.
whilst i cant see how itd hurt the engine once you drained the oil back out (syringe and a hose) im still not sure id want to do it to an enigne im not pulling down.
nope, not getting pulled down. I am not overly comfortable with the hydraulic locking idea either![]()
yeah, if its just engine oil in there i cant see why youd cause any damage given the cylinder pressure is obviosuly miles lower than what the rings, pistons, HG etc all have to deal with during combustion. but it still doesnt mean i love the idea ahahha![]()
Borrow 3/4 drive rattle gun and big compressor?
I would NOT do this.! sounds like a bad idea.Originally Posted by TooF
you've got to physically stop the crank from turning, with a manual u would just chuck it in 5th and put the brakes on, with an auto its harder but maybe you could take the starter out and jam a tire lever in against the ring gear?
i WOULDN'T rely on the 'park' position cus u may break the pawl inside the box which would be BAD
good luck!
when i did mine, i made a cylinder stopper (knocked guts out of old sparkplug and welded in a bolt), probably much worse than hydralic locking, but it did the job and car has driven at least 10,000 KM since without broken piston
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