Cracking the Crank Pulley

[brett_celicacoupe]

spanner + hammer = win

the force from a hammer hit will be magnitudes higher then cranking it over with the spanner locked. my friend mr. newton tells me this

changed my 2j crank pulley and many others like this.

use a single hex quality spanner,hang through the bottom of the engine bay, swing hammer horizontally.

edit; HTFU. this may also help

[Draven]

spanner + hammer = win

the force from a hammer hit will be magnitudes higher then cranking it over with the spanner locked. my friend mr. newton tells me this

changed my 2j crank pulley and many others like this.

use a single hex quality spanner,hang through the bottom of the engine bay, swing hammer horizontally.

edit; HTFU. this may also help

curious.

I cracked my 2jz-gte bolt with the starter and a supercheap-spec breaker bar. If 350+nm of torque can't break it, there's something wrong with the bolt.

I second using Inox at least twice (or equivilent WD-40 clone) to loosen the bolt, + heat, and if that fails I'm lost.

[brett_celicacoupe]

wow,

im impressed you were able to run the engine at sufficient rpm to generate 350Nm of torque while holding the bolt with a spanner

my quick calcs say that at 2kw starter at 300rpm can do 63Nm @100%efficiency. definately more from 0rpm but yeh, maybe not 350.

a 350nm starter @ 300rpm would require approx 916 amps with no inefficiency haha

the instantaneous torque from a hammer hit could be infinite if there was no deformation of the material.

after time the bolt corrodes and goes through many heat cycles....seems perfectly normal to be tight after many years. the friction from the washer would also play a big part in holding the bolt in place

[Draven]

PFT

who says I was holding anything? I put socket -> breaker bar -> 2M extention on the crank pulley bolt, made sure no-one was within shouting distance, and cranked that bitch over (NB: 2M extention required the car to be jacked up to clear the chassis rails).

I base 350NM on toyota spec torques, assuming my ~60K km 2jz hadn't had the cranky pulley removed previously

[brett_celicacoupe]

all good.

what i was getting at is that the starter probably wont make enough torque to loosen the bolt (see calcs above).

the length of the breaker bar is irrelevant if your using the starter off the engine (as long as the socket can be secured)

[Lukey-KE20]

I had this problem recently although the block was on the engine stand and the sump off.

Placed block of wood between crank and block to stop it spinning, placed breaker bar and then hit with a big fuck off hammer. Loosened bolt in two or three belts with the pound. The wood is soft so it doesn't damage the crank.

If engine is still in the car and you can take the sump off, then maybe a block of timber big enough to rest on the ground and wegde between crank and block.

[damo101]

i am with cuzzo on this aswell. workmate has one of those "hammer the fuck out of it" bars. best tool ever for this situation. soak it with heaps of penetrate and give it a good smackin.

or if you have room, get the black and red spanner out. usually helps with seized parts.

[oldcorollas]

all good.

what i was getting at is that the starter probably wont make enough torque to loosen the bolt (see calcs above).

the length of the breaker bar is irrelevant if your using the starter off the engine (as long as the socket can be secured)

depends how far aroudn you let the breaker bar spin before hitting anything can get up a bit of pace and force in 1/2 a rev.

but SST1 and a decent hammerable breaker bar = teh win

like these... my old sidchrome one of these has copped many hits from sledge hammer and also broken socket when trying the starter hit on.. honduhs

[CLG]

CBF using heat, CBF replacing crank pulley is it gets fucked. Nut has been soaked in CRC for 48 hours, still no joy. Keeping the crank pulley stationary is easy - can hold it by hand, the torque going into the actual pulley is minimal. The sump gasket is fine, and was recently redone with a sump swap, so will only be redone if the motor comes out - the main seals on the other hand!?! Easter sucks the wang for buying loctite products - it must have beef in it?!? Women complain I'm not emotional enough so I've HTFU'd enough, and no i don't have cheap spanners, so I'm not prepared to beat the shit out of them.

My beautiful old Aussie made Sidchrome breaker bar is in for replacement, I'll have to make do with one of those shit Asian Sidchrome copies, and become familiar with the warranty claims.

Cuzzo, DrNick and Damo101 hopefully have the winning solution, or it's another $140 down the drain on a tool that will inhabit the bottom drawer!

[woggin]

Clint, i broke a breaker bar aswell doing the same job. I went to repco, got 2 tins of loctite freeze it spray (trade price $7 each) and emptied one whole can on the bolt head and then whacked it a few times with hammer. If that doesnt work empty the other can while the bolt is still cold and give it a few more whacks.

Came undone quite easy after that.
The next step was oxy, however heating balancer to much isnt really good for the rubber in the balancer nor the crank seal.

its funny because that freeze spray claimed to do -450 degrees, thats below absolute zero, in Celsius and Fahrenheit!!!

i tryd to get one off an old 5m, while it was out and ripped down to just the block n sump, with no luck!! but i didnt have much time to work with as it was gettin late! twas valentines day! I'd recommend belting it, after freeze spray and heating is applied....so freeze it, then heat it, then hit it!!

wog

[allencr]

Impact wrench/rattle gun.
If it doesn't look corroded, it must have Loctite on it and I'm sure that Loctite demands, not just recommends, heat for disassembly of its red stuff.

[thechuckster]

remove starter motor, find suitable object to wedge into ring gear? usually requires helper to hold the object in a suitable spot.

[triptek]

Had a similar problem with my 2jz. Had to use a 3/4 drive rattle gun to get it off.

[TooF]

oldcorollas: hahhah starter motor trick on honda eheh doesnt quite work

if you are struggling to stop a motor turning over when trying to undo the crank one trick all be it messy it to hydolically lock the motor. pull plug or plugs out fill a cylinder or two with oil put the plugs back in. wont turn over when youre trying to undo it.. although ths is normally something id only do to a motor on a stand that youre about to pull down to rebuild and cant stop the crank moving when trying to undo it.

[TooF]

its funny because that freeze spray claimed to do -450 degrees, thats below absolute zero, in Celsius and Fahrenheit!!!

i tryd to get one off an old 5m, while it was out and ripped down to just the block n sump, with no luck!! but i didnt have much time to work with as it was gettin late! twas valentines day! I'd recommend belting it, after freeze spray and heating is applied....so freeze it, then heat it, then hit it!!

wog

umm loctite rate it at -43C

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/FREEZEREL-EN.PDF