LOL, take em to whatever board it is for false advertising
maybe they forget the decimal point?
LOL, take em to whatever board it is for false advertising
maybe they forget the decimal point?
"I'm a Teaspoon, not a mechanic"
"There is hardly anything in the world that a man can not make a little worse and sell a little cheaper" - John Ruskin (1819 - 1900)
AU$TRALIA... come and stay and PAY and PAY!!! The moral high horse of the world!
i think the 0 is supposed to be the small degrees type, not a 0!
Current: 94 jzs147 aristo, 92 ep82gt starlet
Prev: ma61, gz20, jza70, uzz31, ncp10r, 92 sw20r
And the winner of the big car race is......HOT ROD ZOIDBERG!
definitely typo - otherwise they'd use that stuff at the Large Haydron Collider at Cern instead of liquid helium for cryo-cooling![]()
Yup, ive got something similar that came with my Repco metric socket set.Originally Posted by oldcorollas
Hasnt failed me yet.
Daily: Toyota '05 Rav4 Sport
Projects: Celica GT4 ST185 (5S-GTE), Celica RA28 Celica (1UZ-FE)
Previous: Corona RT104, Starlet GT Turbo
Classic Celica Club of South Australia
ive had some tough ones too , so i made this tool up .. never failed as yet .. YOU WONT BREAK THE TOOL or bend it so go hard !!!
it started out as a 1metre long bar but i found it to be more effective at this length just put it in upright postion and crank the starter .. it just clears the battery and smashes on the ground , cracking the bolt.
if its a really tough one , just place it so it has more swing.
dodgey but effective !
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Unfortunately, I don't have the spare real estate to let it swing - RA23 Celica engine bay - it's like a japanese apartment in there.
i use a welded ratchet (it i actually broke the weld on it once with a 1m pipe extention)
any chance you have acsess to one of those big arse rattle guns that they use for truck wheel nuts??
or trailer it to a tyre place that deal with trucks and just use it there
so really funny/ghetto ideas here!!
ide be worried it would snap the head off the bolt...then you'd really be galloping up diarrhea drive without a saddle.
Clint did you try the loctite freeze shit then go to town with a rattle gun? or cranking with the starter. Give it a tap or two with a hammar to release it before cranking.
that freeze shit has saved my arse numerous times...top stuff.
Yellow Pages-----> Tool Hire -----> 3/4" Drive Rattle Gun and Compressor to suit.
2GR-FE 200 Killer Wasps
Try tightening it up a little bit first. this should crack loose any rust/thread cement thats on the bolt. Then try undoing with the rattle gun.
*hearts* his 4age powered KE70 Panelvan!
Hi, Im enthused about corollas..
i snapped a small spanner, then a big one
then a 1/4 inch breaker, this didnt work
so then i did this
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1) Let's hope the bolt isn't left hand thread as I've been caught on other vehicles (mainly US).
2) Use a 3/4 breaker bar and single hex impact socket. Hit the bar with a wooden mallet while holding it tight in the direction you want it undone. The problem even with rattle guns is there is too much metal in the crank and it will absorb the force in minor twisting and a 1/2 breaker bar will do the same. You don't have to belt the bar with all the force you can but you do have to pre-load the system with your other hand to avoid the torque damping of all the other metal.
Go hire a torque mulitplier, remove the starter motor and lock up the flywheel with a pry bar. They work a treat and require little effort.
Cheers
Alex
Pulled engine and box out, then seperated box and removed clutch. Chained flywheel up, and got the big hurter with old 1/2" socket and 22mm impact socket onto the job - brokeded it, swore!
Next was a Powerbar as shown above - brokeded it too, other people swore:
Final straw - I hired a Mongo (6'+ 100Kg mate with a Repco 1/2" breaker bar and a desire to kill it!), added the big hurter to the breaker bar, and strained like fuck - brokeded it - the bolt from it's bastard hold on the crank thread that is! Pulled the bolt out, doesn't show any signs of "loctite or similar" adhesive, but does show corrosion on the end. I can now progress with the timing belt change! FWIW, I expected the Repco bar to break too, but upon closer inspection, the drive peice is black/hardened steel, so I'll happily add one of these items to my toolkit - and recommend one to everyone else too.
My thanks to DrNick for your help - it was greatly appreciated.
Fucken Cars!
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