Cracking the Crank Pulley

[Moppitt]

Came in here to suggest a power bar. I'm amazed you broke it, hell I was doing a timing belt on a mates gtr, had similar issues, had the clutch slip when he was in the car on the brakes. Dug holes in the concrete driveway from the starter trick, tried to overheat the compressor from running the rattle gun for so long, heat, cold, sledge on the bolt, sledge on the power bar, everything. Still didnt break the power bar though... Finally got it from another application of heat and the rattle gun but I'm sure all the earlier work contributed. It also didnt show any evidence of locktite and bugger all corrosion.

Hell, was starting to look at the spare rb26 crank my mate had lol...

Petergoudie is exactly right though. You really want a tool that bolts to the crank pulley and then will fix in place hard against the chassis rail or something to stop that flex as you wind the crank etc up. I'm sure you found that bit of flex that reduces the effectiveness of impact tools.

[allencr]

Why are so many of these things difficult or have they just been installed overly tight?
Is it installed with close to the proper spec torque or with wrong spec threadlock(mandatory heat or it breaks before loosening) or corroded/rusted/ from people putting in an un-lubed bolt that has been touched with their sweaty hands? Most of these problems seem to come when being the 2nd person after the factory to work on it.

Leverage and a strap wrench do it for my stuff.

I'd like to try a freeze sometime, it must have been popular when R12 was cheap & available. Does it change temps & size faster then an oxy-acetylene would, when going in the opposite direction?

[ReQuieM]

Hey all, so it seams I've hit this snag to. I'm currently searching locally (Melbourne) for someone that has a big air compressor (150+lpm / ~10+ cfm) or a ellectric rattle gun that will fit in an engine bay, if you can help PM me please!

But on topic I've seen a few balancer locking tools that are available including this one:
http://shoptoolsshoptools.com/Harmon...exus-24301.htm

My question is, how much of a risk is there of damaging the keyway using a balancer holder such as this? I figure that the keyway will be seeing a majority of the torque when using it... would it be safe? If its feasable I'm thinking I'll make one up out of a bit of steam pipe and two smaller thick walled tubes and a long bar all welded together...

I tried 'juryrigging' a similar idea out of a 2 bolts, c-spanners and a braker bar, but the end result was bent bolts as the load was too far down the bolt and just acted a leverage for bending the bolt instead of locking the balancer

Details of my situation, 2JZ Auto in car. Tried starter trick, tried impact wrench rated to 510nm or some shit but I only have a ~77lpm compressor and it needs ~150lpm for max ability so there is hope that getting a better compressor will work.

Thanx for any help in advance

[chris davey]

Invest in a powerbar

[ReQuieM]

Yeah I've still gotta lock the motor some how being an auto Plus I just spent most of my cash on air tools to do the job and then hired a electric rattle gun that was WAY to big to fit in the bay.

Not having a lot of luck admitedly

[chris davey]

Mine's auto as well I had a breaker bar on a cam bolt holding it in place and another person with the power bar and sledgey

I thought the cam bolt would undo but it didn't.

After going through this ordeal, I reckon rattle guns are shit

[RA35GT]

All torque loads will be transferred through either the keyway and/or the inteference fit anyway dood. (If you hold the pulley or flex plate etc, it is transferred through the entire keyway of the balancer)

As long as you can whack it on a sufficient length of the key it should be ok.

I am having trouble visualising how that tool gets onto the keyway however. The bolts have a big arse flange on em (but must be smaller than the crank i guess). There isn't that much keyway exposed though, which may damage the end if there isn't sufficient bearing area.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/attach...7&d=1189874353
(PIC of 1UZ)

I say find a better tool (or make something)

[ReQuieM]

I'm at work so I can't directly link you, but I saw it for the first time in a youtube video the other night; search youtube for jeffs garage 2jz servicing I think its part 3 or 4. The guy in that uses it.

Basically you put two bolts through the two slots into the balancer then attach a braker bar to the handle then slip another braker through the main hole onto the crank bolt then twist in different directions. I was going to wedge the braker that attaches to the tool and just torque the braker on the crank bolt. I was just worried about damaging the keyway from effectively forcing the balancer.

Chris isn't there I high chance of stripping the timing belt or it failing? I mean if I can't crack the bolt I still need to be able to drive the car later even with the old belt

[RA35GT]

ohhhh, my bad. its heaps bigger then what i thought. lol (part two for anyone looking as well ahah)

It doesnt go onto the keyway itself but those grooves go over the puller bolts

That makes more sense now heh.

Should have no issues at all with the keyway dood as doing it any other way is essentially the same thing.

[ReQuieM]

yup sorry was part 2 heres a direct link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1evk4...eature=related

Stumbled upon it while looking for other options... Fast forward the little winge at the start tho lol

7M-GTE MX73, makes sense, I was just worried about really localising the force like that on the pulley, but if its all good, its all good I'll weld up a make shift one, rather then fork out the 90usd that most of the sites want :O, should be pretty simple. between that and borrowing a big arse air compressor, hopefully that should break it.

[triptek]

I was having this problem on my 2jz-ge a few weeks back. I eventually had to remove the motor. Once the motor was out i tried a 3/4inch rattle gun, the bolt still wouldn't undo. I had to heat it up for about 20 seconds with an oxy. Then tried the 3/4 rattle gun again and it came straight off.

[Dale]

Why don't you just take off the inspection plate, jam a big screwdriver in the ring gear and user a longer bar?

[ReQuieM]

Yeah I really don't wanna remove the engine I think I'll give that freeze spay as well.

I'd also rather not risk damaging the flexplate either. I don't want a relatively small job turning it to a build thread lol

Thanx for the options tho.

[love ke70]

what pressure are people using in their compressors?
the trick is to pull the little cover off where the on off switch is, wind it up to around 140+ psi.
set your reg around 135 or so and then try
90psi wont pull itself out of a paper bag...
ive done a few 1gs. some undo just fine, others have been an absolute mission. heat and 2.5 metre rattle gun won out in the end, after breaking the gearing in a torque wrench, after bending a breaker bar.
welded torque wrench up, heated bolt, and it came off with me hanging off the breaker bar 2 metres from the motor and bouncing...

[petergoudie]

Dear Requiem

The key way will see no torque at all if you only use it for the pulley. It looks to me that when you bolt it on, the two bolts take all the shear force along their full length. Note the 'half' holes in the centre for the bolts. This is where the shear force passes through.