same ecu, last engine died due to thermo fan dying and just generally me pressure cooking it, which one is the fpr hose? i am such a n00b
if the FPR hose had a T with nothing on one end, it would run rich at idle, lean on boost, and also have a vac leak with heaps of fuel causing it to idle high..
i'd think about getting some electrical contact cleaner and going over all the plugs too..
why did your last engine die? - same ECU?
same ecu, last engine died due to thermo fan dying and just generally me pressure cooking it, which one is the fpr hose? i am such a n00b
Fuel Pressure Regulator..
its mounted on the end of the rail, there should be a vac line coming off it (a small line) and the return line comes off there too..
Missing/cutting only at higher revs and under load is a good indicator of a coil/plug problem.Originally Posted by GZP51
GSE20 IS250 - daily
UZZ30 Soarer - 1UZ-FE/R154/Adaptronic - trackday roughie
UZZ32 Soarer - Active Hydropneumatic Suspension (A-SUS) & Active Four Wheel Steering (A-4WS) - cruiser
thanks guys, will see what happens this afternoon thanks for your help
I was thinking about the FPR on the way to work this morning also. Will have a look tonight and see what we can do. Will give you a ring Matt.
ok well i have really mucked around with all my vaccuum hoses and god knows what i have put where now LOL!!!! but i went to supercheap and purchased a few metres to replace as much of it as i can just to make sure you know? anyways the other thing that i haven't mentioned and probably should have about the idling problem is the fact that when you first start the car (cold) it idles fine (about 1000 rpms), once it warms up or after a period of time the idle increases to 1700! now i am thinking that the ecu/car has a cold start injector and has a set or controlled idle level for the initial start up yeah? so what the hell is going on?
also just went for a drive and in response to manny, the car will rev to 6500 as long as i don't have my loud foot stuck into it, part throttle no probs (only getting about 3-4-5 psi)
so i am going to change some hoses and see what that does, also now that i have mucked around with the hoses the "limiter" kicks in at about 4900 LOL so i at least want to get it back to 5500 lol
cheers
matt
i'd check the wiring to the temp sensor too..
hmm if its moved it might mean you have at least changed something
its not an auto ECU is it..
nope is manual hks modified something or other with boost and speed cut defender in it or some shit like that, my power FC made no difference if that helps!![]()
It is normal for the engine to rev higher as it warms up as the oil thins out. Mine starts at 800rpm and goes to 1000rpm (or did anyway).
The ISCV is meant to open and control the idle so that it works the other way. i.e. opens at cold start to let additional air in and closes when it is warm. I have cracked the throttle open a little so that is why mine idles at 1000rpm when warm.
Interesting that the rpm “limit” changed when you fiddled with the vacuum lines.
Bring over a socket set and some allen keys mate. I don’t have any tools where I am staying at the moment. Think we will have to check the coils. The 6500rpm thing on part throttle suggests from what Manny says that it is a coil/plug problem.
What plugs are you using and what are they gapped to? If you have any feeler gauges to do the gapping bring them over too![]()
hey mate, just got off the phone to you! i will bring all that you requested but i am pretty sure that i gapped the bkr7's to 0.7mm
see what happens tonight anyways! thanks for the call
cheers
matt
oh man im hanging to find out what hte problem is hey.
did you change that fuel filter?
lol not yet, should hopefully (crosses fingers) be able to rule a couple of options out by tonightbelieve me no one is hanging more than i to find out what is wrong with this thing
bkr7's? i thought they were supposed to be 6's? - (according to the 100K service thread that is)
I dont know if you already tried but check TPS, friend had similar problem on a 4agze but in opposite it would misfire and run like a pig off boost but if you revved it up and dropped hte clutch and kept it on boost it ran like a F***KING rocket.. turned out TPS was stuffed and was wildly overfuelling causing it to miss and cough and fart
other thing maybe its getting Boost spikes (ie with my ebc uncalibrated my car with stock twins would hit boost cut at like 3500rpm).. so faulty ebc, wastegate lines or actuators?
Speedo shouldnt be an issue if its jza70 ecu, i drove around for ages without one on my car and it revved past 7k fine
also with the powerfc has it been tuned properly? are they stock injectors? i know they have a base map but ive heard their base maps are pretty wack ie lots and lots of timing advance and stuff. maybe plug a factory ecu in if you can get someone to lend you one just to elimate that if you havent already? (only skim read the last few posts)
- Russ
'80 kp60 starlet
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