3SGE No Acceleration (video Available)

[Jester]

Can't bypass i don't think coz then the flaps will just be open the whole time, could try it but.
I have another unit to replace it with, but there's not a whole lot of space to get under the car and access the back underside of the intake manifold, i'm sure many are aware of the lack of space for access to the engine bay in these cars, but i'll surely try and get to it and we'll see what happens.

Note*: i checked the plug and wiring to the AFM looks all okey day to me, no singes or burn marks nor any exposed wiring, and the plug looks normal.

[greywolf]

Have you gotten yourself a vacuum gauge yet ? They are worth their weight in gold, and I think would go a ways to helping you diagnose your problem (especially if it is vacuum related).

From what I've read of TVIS having the flaps constantly open will only affect lower end torque, sure drivability will be affected, but if it's the problem at least you will have confirmed it.

[Jester]

Ok just spent the last 4hrs swapping over that tiny little thing, my god there was even less space than i remembered, seriously considered removing the exhaust and brackets to get to it, but all is done and i'll have to wait til morning to see if it makes a difference, can't start her up now, is a very loud four cylcinder and include the fact it's in the garage (great acoustics ) and i live in a residential st with elderly neighbours, will end up with cops here again so on hault for now. will make the valves stay open tomorrow and test that too.

Edit*: checked plug and leads again jus coz and i didn't look to good at the AFM plug last time, looking at it it seems the third connector from the left is missing, there's a pin for it on the AFM but i don't know if it's meant to be there or not. can sum1 post a pic of their AFM plug so i can compare PLEASE.

P.S. Been looking for a vacuum guage but no1 round here has em, not repco, supercheap or bursons. found one i could order in, was like $40 or $60 is this about the right price i'd be paying for one?

[greywolf]

I'm pretty sure I only paid $20 for mine, from a joint up the road. Private mob. If I head down towards Supercheap tomorrow I'll drop in and ask them what their pricing is on a vacuum gauge tomorrow.

[Jester]

thanks, if it's cheap, is it alright to try to organise you to get one and post it to me, might cost me less than buying one here.

[Jester]

There is now a video online on YouTube so i can give everyone a better understanding on what's going on with it, i'm just about out of options, changed the ignition coil today, was just for kicks apparently, didn't do anything. Tried rremoving the hose from the T-Vis to keep it open all the time, no different, little harder to start but no go.

video name is "3S-GE No Acceleration" and i'll put a clearer one up soon.

also a check up on tests i had yet to do, when the AFM is unplugged the engine dies, and when the TPS is unplugged the revs climb just a tad.

* new video is up "Celica 3S-GE No Acceleration (2)"

[petergoudie]

I looked at video. It's just like a blocked carburettor main jet. Have you looked at the fuel pressure regulator. It's supposed to increase fuel load under acelleration. Possibly it's not doing anything when you crack the throttle.

[Jester]

Thanks, will check that now and probably swap it, i only had a test done to make sure there was fuel pressure but haven't looked at the regulator, is that on the intake or the fuel rail?

[petergoudie]

It's on the fuel rail and might even have a vacuum line connected to it as well. My cressida regulator is gold coloured and mushroom shape (there's a diaphram in it) about thirty or more mm high as I recall. However, I suspect they might not all look the same. They can be checked with a pressure gauge. I think the fuel rail is supposed to run at about 30 psi.

[oldcorollas]

why is the idle so high when you are not killing it with throttle?

massive air leak?

i agree, it seems like fuel is being cut..

there should be vac line from manifold somewhere to the fuel reg (at one end of the rail.. has a diaphragm on it)... maybe it is off?
got detailed pics of engine bay to see if people can spot things lookin funny?

[Jester]

ok so i swapped the regulator, was a real pain of a job, and now i can't even get it to start, sounds like it did once before when the vacuum lines were wrong but i've been over them and all is good and in it's right place, i dunno what the go is.
Will get some pics up soon of the fuel rail and the vacuum lines to see if someone can tell me what's wrong.

[greywolf]

Have you got some start ya bastard ? Put some of that down the intake manifold and give it a go starting.

[.:2DR-FTU:.]

dont give up boss, it should only be something simple. Who wired it up, are they competent? If using the old loom, is there any differences, maybe some pin outs are in different places

[petergoudie]

I agree, it should be something simple. It's either air or fuel although it seems like the latter to me. Even though you change bits are you sure those parts are OK. Earlier I suggested the idle control switch that's attached to the spindle at the side of the throttle body. There can be a number of switch contacts in these. Did you check that the switch is working using a multimeter? Also, is there any chance this could be put on upside down the wrong way around? They are held in with two screws and you adjust them with a drill bit or similar stuck in the throttle. I think you said that the engine was changed. Is there any chance the inlet tubes or the air cleaner has a piece of rag in it or a rats nest to stop the air flow or is there still some packing material on the air filter? When the engine dies, could you check if the injector pulses stop? There's a thing called a noid light which is just a LED that lights up on each injector pulse. A needle type (analogue) meter might pulse the needle but could not be used to measure the voltage. If they stop pulsing, you should look again at the idle switch.

[Jester]

Ok so i think i found the problem in my cold start injector, i've hooked it up so that the hole in the bolt lines up with the hole from the supply line but for some reason i get a shit load of back pressure and it just burst out of it, was turning it over and i saw a rather decent expel of gas come out from where the cold start injector goes in, undid the bolt a little and a whole lot of fuel burst out, have i done something wrong here? do you not line up the hole in the bolt with the one in the fuel line? I'm so very confused by this problem.