3SGE No Acceleration (video Available)

[petergoudie]

Could distributor one or two teeth out.

[Jester]

um....The Distributor on these is a fork not a gear, been informed that on the distributor and timing side of things it don't get much better than it already is by 4 mechanics now. Think it's time for angry phone call to where i purchased the engine from.

[petergoudie]

May be the compression is down (leaky valves or rings)? Low compression can allow a good start and and feeling of smothness but not when you put your foot on the accelerator up a hill.

[greywolf]

is your water temp sensor (EFI) plugged in and working correctly? i thought this wouldnt play a part in anything, till i took it off my soarer and the soarer wouldnt start..and then when i did get it started it would stall and die if i took my foot off the pedal.

That's because the water temp sensor is used to determine whether or not the car has warmed up. This affects a multitude of things, not the least fuel mixture. Before the car warms up it runs in open loop, Once it hits operating temperature it then goes into closed loop.

Might be worth while putting a voltmeter on the water temp sensor and checking it. If it's faulty it might be going into closed loop and you might be leaning out.

[petergoudie]

Another option is to check that the spark is advancing. Even if it's all electronic just draw a chalk line on the crank pulley and plug in a timing light. Rev the engine to see if the line moves. If it appears to stay staionary its not advancing under revs at speed. If it's not electronic its a broken advance weight spring in the dizzy or a ceased advance weight.

[Jester]

Got the car off the mechanics this arvo, figure there's nothing they can do i better get to it myself so i got it sitting at home in the garage, just been working on it for the last couple hours, swapped over a few more parts including a Dizzy, TPS(again), AFM (again), Leads(again) and ecu but still got the same problem, I'm Wondering if there's anyone out there willing to help me out with it? I live in Warragul

Oh and i can't check if the spark is advancing because i can't rev it, that's my problem it just dies with any accelerator movement.

And Greywolf when you say to put a voltmeter on the temp sensor can i use a multi-meter? and what settings should i be using and what am i looking for exactly?

Did a Comp test, all seems fine, got 170, 165, 170, 165 (there abouts)

[greywolf]

Volt-meter/multi-meter much the same thing, slight difference but the terms are pretty interchangeable these days.

I did a quick google search and came across this :

http://www.mr2.com/forums/na-5s-fe-3...ning-rich.html

This guy had a thermostat problem he rectified, but he tested his coolant temp sensor and it had a resistance of 580 ohms after a short drive. Unfortunately that's not very informative, since you don't know how warm it actually got to.

Check the resistance of the sensor at cold and hot, and make some educated guesses. If you aren't getting any resistance at all, or infinite resistance, might be a good indicator that the sensor is bung. To be 100% sure, grab a workshop manual for the 3S-GE, or check and see if the ECT is the same for the 3S-GTE and if it is, check the BGB which you can grab from -=LANCE=- (I think that's his username on here)'s website. If you have any difficulty getting the BGB, let me know and I'll see if I can get it.

[greywolf]

I don't know if this is any help, but should give you a definete idea of what you should be seeing.

http://www.celicatech.com/93rmsour/1...i/engineco.pdf

The graph on the right only states 3S-GTE and 5S-FE, but comparing that to the 4A-FE and you see it's only slightly different values. So using it in a general sense you should see similar resistance values at the various temps.

Judging by the graph, the previous link I gave you which specified 580 ohms after a short drive must have been approaching operating temp. Good luck with it mate, if I was closer I'd drop by and give you a hand.

[Jester]

ok so i plugged in a different ECU and ran it for a while and the engine light pops up, so i bridged the terminals and got the codes, 21, 2 and 24,, interchanged the AFM and now i get 21 only, now it says in my list that code 21 is Oxysensor or oxysensor signal, but i've been told that the oxysensor shouldn't really have much of an impact, i unplugged it and it runs the same, is this a part worth replacing or not? I imagine they're not cheap, are they?

[greywolf]

Depends if you go geninue Toyota, decent aftermarket, or cheap chinese crap. They are in order from most to least expensive. For an idea, I priced a geninue Hyundai Oxygen sensor at $267 each yesterday afternoon. Don't know what sort of price you'd be up for from Toyota.

What codes are 2 and 24 ?

Also, with your original ECU does that throw a code if you changed it back now ?

[greywolf]

Be careful of just using codes to diagnose problems too, as the O2 sensor code could just be telling you that the exhaust is either reading too lean or too rich. A scanner is a much better way of seeing what's going. Unfortunately most cheap scanners are OBD-II, since it's a standardised plug. Check resistance on your O2 sensors before you replace anything.

[Dale]

I still maintain, check your wiring, sounds like something might be melted/damaged and be shorting... afm wiring or plug is my guess

car will run without an o2 sensor

[Jester]

I may have found the problem but want to make sure this sounds possible to others. there's this little bracket with a vacuum tank on it attached to the T-VIS plate that actuates the T-VIS system, the little black cylinder looking thing hanging off the end i beleive is the release valve for the vacuum pressure, well the one shown is the original and the one on there at the moment is off the JDM unit, which has that part broken off, now if the T-VIS isn't working properly and not opening the valves to allow more air in then the engine would be choking on fuel and may be getting flooded, thus won't accelerate, does this THEORY sound possible to anyone else?

i'll try uploading a picture later, can't get it up right now for some reason.

It is available on ozcelica.com if any1's a member. Thread name "Engine lugs" in the 4th Gen section

[petergoudie]

Buy an O2 generic sensor off ebay for about $20. If the sensor is faulty it might drop into limp mode. Also check the throttle position switch. May be when you rev it, its not swtching off idle mode and the inrush of air wiith no fuel drowns the engine.

[greywolf]

Definetely a possibility Jester, can you replace or bypass the unit in anyway ?