3SGE No Acceleration (video Available)

[Jester]

solved the problem with the cold start injector and i think i found that vacuum leak too, there was no gasket between the cold start injector and the manifold, so i got one, cleaned the injector in some Kero and got her firing only i can hear a massive air leak somewhere else now i'm hoping i just haven't put one of the fuel injectors back in properly as it cranks over, runs a little and dies, but i thought if injectors weren't in it wouldn't turn over at all. Ideas?

[petergoudie]

Don't worry, everyone else is confused also. As far as I know, the cold start injector shouldn't be part of this problem. It's the same as a choke on a carburettor. What your experiencing is the fuel pressure gushing out. When you said you aligned the holes in a bolt I assume you mean it was on a banjo connection so it should not matter where the hole goes. As far as I remember, the cold start injector operates off one of the temp sensors independantly of the rest of the system. The only issue with these is that they might dribble and give poor fuel economy which is not your problem because your engine dies when it is reved. If you apply 12v to it it should open and squit out fuel but if you do this fix the wires otherwise you and the car will burnt with a flame thrower. Are you sure the timing is not hugely out? Are you looking at the correct marks on the pulley or flywheel. Can you remove a spark plug, stick a screw driver into it and determine top dead centre approximately? Then compare it with the pulley mark. Possibly the key has sheared and the pulley moved slightly or someone left the key out. I had a car once that idled great was undriveable because the timing was way way out.

[Jester]

Ignore this reply, i can't seem to be able to remove it

[Jester]

Got it started again, yeah i was talking about the banjo bolt, turns fine now but still idles really high and i can slow rev it up to 3000RPM but it dies right in the ass after that.

May have to check the timing for myself.
In terms of setting the timing, if i have cylinder one at top dead center then where should the cams be? i don't have a timing light so can't check that way and i assume i'll have to adjust the cams accordingly myself.
Think i'll get a new fuel filter too, it's probably in need of one.

[oldcorollas]

edit: laaaag

is this a bango bolt? if so then it should have a copper washer on either side to seal it...

the bolt should be tight and sealed...no need to align anything


if i were you, i'd still be looking for air leaks... or vac lines hooke dup wrong..
the idle is too high and sound slike it leans out further with any throttle...

[petergoudie]

I'm not saying to set the ignition timing buy merely to check to see if it's about right. TDC of Number 1 cylinder is marked on the pulley. The other mark or marks on the pulley relate to ignition timing. At top dead centre all valves will be closed if not, turn the crank over another revolutuion. All I want you to look at is whether the TDC mark on the pulley lines up with the mark on the crankcase which might be a pointer or a degree scale - tdc is zero degrees. If it looks about right, leave it. The screwdriver in the spark plug hole will help you determine where tdc is for the piston. If the mark is 10 degrees or so out, do the test again but more carefully. This will give you an idea if all the timing/pulley position is sort of OK. A very rough test for the ignition timing is to then look at the distributor rotor to see if it's pointing to number 1 terminal on the cap but note this is a rough test but should be good enough to at least allow the engine to start.

[Aust162]

Sounds like the timing is off. had similar problems with my bigport 4age. aw11 timing covers are different to the fwd corolla timing covers, so i had heaps of FUN trying to set the timing!

[Jester]

Looking intently for Vacuum leaks mate but I just don't see any, all flimsy hoses are replaced, and I’ve been over my diagram about 14 times, and that's not an exaggeration, I keep hoping to find something wrong but honestly it's spot on, there's nothing wrong as far as I can see. I'll write a list of where things go.

From the top of the throttle body, E and R go into the correct holes (looking down on the EGR VM left for E right for R), from the bottom of the EGR VM a line goes into the damper for the EGR valve, from there a Line goes into the top of the blue BVSV on the water way part, the inside one goes to the charcoal canister, from the P port on top of the throttle body a line (with the green jet bit in it (M/T only)) goes into the inside of the black BVSV and from the top of that BVSV a line goes into the one remaining side of the EGR VM (the side with only the single tip).

On the Intake closest to the throttle body there are two ports right next to each other, the one on the right is slightly lower than the one on the left goes into the top end of the green VSV for the T-VIS Actuator bit, the inside line on the VSV goes into the bottom of the throttle body. Going back to the top, the Vacuum tip on the left, next to the previous line that was a little lower, goes into the little tank for the T-VIS Actuator, the other tip from the tank goes into the plug on the right side of the bracket and a line from that goes into the T-VIS actuator itself.

From the other end of the Intake manifold a tip comes out just before the A/C actuator, a line from there goes down to the fuel regulator on the fuel rail.
With the A/C lines the inside line from the VSV goes to the bottom (the bell end) of the A/C actuator and the other goes to the bit off the side on the spring end, from the back of there a line goes down through the gap in the intake manifold between cylinders 2 and 3 and routes in two directions, one goes right and connects into the bottom of the throttle body, the other one going left and goes down into something I don’t know and but there’s another line next it that goes back up to the top and plumbs into the end on the manifold, the line next to that goes into a drum looking thing that’s mounted on the firewall.

Now there are two other lines on the left of the under side of the throttle body, these both track back into the water way junction where the BVSV’s, Water temp sensor and other sensors are mounted.
If there are parts on here i haven't explained properly let me know and i'll be more detailed.

Now that’s basically all the vacuum lines I can find, if I could get some clear pics up I would but I don’t know how coz when I try to add pics it asks for a URL, I haven’t come across this method for adding pics to posts yet but will get too it.

[oldcorollas]

http://photobucket.com/ for pictures

[Jester]

Ok since so many people are telling me this is timing, not just on here but other people too, but mechanics have said it's right so how can i check this myself beyond a shadow of a doubt? I'm guessing i'm going to need a timing light but what else, if i set to Cylinder 1 to TDC does anyone know the exact positions i need to put the Cams in and set the distributor too? Would really like to do this tomorrow. I've got way too much free time between work, or lack of work anyway.

[petergoudie]

First do what I said about checking the pulley in regard to top dead centre. If the key has been left out or the key sheared and the pulley has moved you will never set the timing as its all relative to the position of the pulley. This is what makes me wonder when the mechanics say its OK but if the pulley has moved for either of the two reasons I have stated no matter how good the mechanics are they can't time the engine accurately in relation to all the other moving parts. It will only take a minute or two to check with a long screw driver down the spark plug hole. It has nothing to do with setting the cams except that you might be one revoltion out that is the screw driver is up as high as it will go but the pulley tdc mark is 180 degrees out. If this happens turn the crankshaft one more revolution and hopefully the pulley mark will then be in right position. I think you are getting mixed up with valve timing and ignition timing.

[Jester]

Before i was just talking about setting the timing absolutely perfectly.
But what mark? i get confused by this, d oyou mean the little notcth taken out on the side of the pulley that you check againt the degrees marking on the timing Case? shuld it be at 10 or 0 for TDC?

[Jester]

Got them pics of vac lines on photobucket, not al of them though, will get the others up later, too frickin cold and early now.

Search for username "sntjester"

having trouble gettin the URL right and CBF trying anymore, will fix later.

[petergoudie]

Yes, the notch. On some vehicles there will be one notch and a sector with degrees on the timing belt/chain case or crankcase. On other vehicles there is a pointer or raised line on the timing case and more than one notch on the pulley of which each one is moved around in the appropriate amount of degrees (one notch being zero and the other the ignition timing mark).

I presume in the way your describing you have one notch and a degree scale. Use zero degrees for TDC and the screwdriver in the spark plug hole to ensure the pulley is in the correct position (the zero position is also used if you replace the cam belt). The 10 degree position (if that's the correct number) is for the base timing but remember you have to short out the T&E terminals in the diagnostic plug to get the computer into base mode (you can't accurately adjust the timing otherwise).

However, what I said earlier is that when you check the tdc mark you can at least look at the rotor button in the dizzy to see that it points approximately at number one terminal. This is what you do after you rebuild and engine so it will at least start and you then adjust with the timing light.

It's a long shot that the key has sheared or not been put in or has been pushed out when the pulley has gone in but it has happened before. This is what makes me wonder when you say the mechanics have looked at it. They might set the timing correctly but it's wrong because the base reference point of zero is in the wrong place.

If the pulley has moved say 10 degrees because of no key and you have set the timing at base of 10 degrees you have 20 degrees advance at idle. An over-advanced timing setting will make the engine idle fast and the other respondents have all remarked on the fast idle. When you rev the engine the computer further advances the spark and possibly this is why the engine dies.

[oldcorollas]

http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/ll2/sntjester/
just left click once on the "direct image link" or whatever below pic, then ctrl+c to copy
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