3T GTE Tech

[steeko]

From what I read the kameari gear set is used in high HP applications, but out of my league $$$s wise.

my chain adjuster, cam gears and upper sprocket all work a treat
very expensive but I built my motor to take some heat, yet I drive it daily at 10psi lol and i hardly ever come on boost because Brisbane traffic is bumper to bumper sometimes 24hours a day on some roads

[supra2]

Thanks Steeko for the info.
Iam gathering engine candy for the new race motor.
Mine has now done 4 seasons and is still very good, so leaving it complete as a spare and building a new one.
Was just interested in the gear drive as the works rally engines used them.
I think the main reason was to drive the dry sump pump rather than timing isuses.
Iam ordering the same top end stuff as yours.
Did you order from the States or Japan?

[YelloRolla]

Chassis dyno.

Excellent indeed; I'd still be impressed if it were on the engine dyno. Thanks also for giving specs and results; what this thread is really about.

[turbotoy]

You guys have helped me allot over the years so I need to return the favor.

I love the x-beam rod good windage also. As far as strength well I really don't know I would have to see some numbers. They have worked great to date!

[metcap]

Turbotoy, what figures did you get on the previous 2871? and is it streetable on the 30?

[metcap]

Just wondering what cooling solutions you guys are on coz I'm running a 2tg/3tg hybrid with a 10psi boost and having temperature problems after hard runs. At the moment the rad size is maxed out in the car.

[toyota1515]

Sometimes is not the size of the radiator, is how wel sorted you got the system running,

To tell you the truth these engines dont like when you go .60 over in bore but with the right cooling system they can give you years of cool service.

Things to take in consideration,

1- use a good quality water pump
2- always use a good termostat ( not using one will cause overheat in some cases)
3- make sure your fan or fans are working correctly and if using electric ones use always a thermoswitch with them
4- is always good to use a coolant aditive to contribute with cooling caracteristics
5- make sure your gauges are working correctly

[AE25]

where did my big long radiator reply go???? argg not writing that again

Re 3tgte oil filter
asked my dealer about this.. he says 90915-YZZD2 filter is a Thailand made part. but in NZ, we use the Japanese made parts. the D2 refers to the 90915-20004 filter, indeed it’s just longer in length but also double the price! I'll stick with the 90915-20003 thanks

[metcap]

I'm using the stock std wtr pump at the moment, which kind/brand of pump would be recomended as a good replacement pump? Also what pump mods are popular?

[AE25]

I use a GMB brand water pump to suit 2tg(eu) which also fits 3tgte.
If you buy a pump to suit the pushrod 2t/3t, you'll need to block off the bypass pipe. They're the same basic pump just with the bypass added.

At what power output would a change in plug coldness be recommended? still currently using stock denso W20EXR-U11 w/ ct20 on 15psi intercooled. going T28 very soon.

[toyota1515]

X2 on the GMB japanese piece

[metcap]

I've thought of overdriving the pump to hopefully get more flow, what ideas from you guys here?

[toyota1515]

I've thought of overdriving the pump to hopefully get more flow, what ideas from you guys here?

increasing the flow speed is never a good thing, cavitation is one problem you may encounter, as well as the flow been to fast to let the cooling fluid to do its job, plus the thermostat wont going to let it happen plus increasing pressure in the system can increase the chance of leaks,

Matter of facts it is totally the opposite, the water pump need to be slow down to make the system more stable thats a old school trick, BRD racing sells a under-drive pulley for that same reason, Moroso also sells a pulley to underdrive and slow down water pumps, also the best choice is an electric Mezziere inline water pump that always keep the system at a controlled steady pace plus you gain couple of horses by eliminating a parasitic devise!

[steeko]

I've just changed from a fat alum rad to a skinny copper, i also changed from fan clutch to twin thermo's.
I think it runs much better and takes quite a bit more time to warm up than what it did before.
That and use the Genuine Toyota radiator fluid.

My Kameari gear all came from the USA. They wouldn't accept paypal, credit card, western union. The ONLY payment they would accept was international bank transfer. We got one character wrong in one of the specified fields at the bank and it cost me an extra $180 all up in fee's to get the money to them.

btw, someone here was asking me about pics of my engine, i will have some pics up in my build thread in a few minutes.
I recently got the car back with the CT20b fitted, 3" exhaust, 3" dump, twin thermo's, skinny rad, PWR intercooler, stainless piping and mounting etc
Running at 10psi, but has loads of torque. I estimate it's making around 200horse at 10psi, really need to get it dyno'd if I want to up the boosty.

But on stock injectors, ECU, fuel pump, I dont want to max that out.

[steeko]

6 speed to the 3T would be nice and kick it down a bit more on highway driving :

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-LE...item4d00c13612