As Yellorolla mentioned, head needs to be removed, doing it any other way will just be a temporary fix/waste of your time and effort.
Cheers Josh
That is why I posted the link for he disassemble and reassembly hoping that would be a better guide than, him guessing on how it should be done. Yeah, sorry, I did not mention the studs since it seems like he was beyond that point in his efforts. Good luck, but do it per the instructions please.
As Yellorolla mentioned, head needs to be removed, doing it any other way will just be a temporary fix/waste of your time and effort.
Cheers Josh
I got it off, the head gasket was custom made and only covers the block section apparently, quite possibly why there was seepage between the head and timing cover
i just had to knock the chain guide stud a little harder, got it off, cleaned it up, put new sealant along it, put back into place with bolts finger tight for an hour then nipped it all up with the torque wrench
all back together and no longer leaking'
the 2L 3TG ke35 will make it to the nationals, YAY!
Thanks for the help guys, was abit of a pain but got there in the end
Cheers, Peter.
My Rides:
1x Brown St141 corona csx. powered by a gen 2 3sge, 1x RT142 turbo 1UZ, cd009 and G series, 1x Gj Sigma Scorpion injected and turbo'd, 1x KE30 2TG, w58 and F truetrac, 1x RT104 18RG, w58 and F truetrac
glad to hear that you got it done.
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
78 page fully read, what a great bit of information.
I just purchased my second 3TG (The first I had to sell prior to getting anything completed) so this will help me not make the same mistakes. I like the fact that specification of builds have been posted which helps a lot. I am fortunate that I have the manuals (Japanese) for the 3TG and I know about the shortage of parts, especially here in the US. I have collected many parts prior to this purchase and I do have the distributor for this engine. I will be sure to ask any questions to keep this thread alive since most of you may have moved on from this engine. Once again, great read and lots of key information. Thanks
Welcome to the 3tgte club, what are you putting it in?
Not sure as of yet, I want to repair and test the engine first before i commit it into the tin shell of some chassis. Next purchase is a engine run stand so that I can work out any issues prior. I would have done this sooner, however the first engine was sold during the recession of 2009!
I have two 1973 Celica, a TA22 and a RA21. Depending on which body I complete first will determine which one gets it. Leaning towards the RA21 because I have a spare T-series engine cross member.
Thanks for the welcome!!
I had my 3tgte on the stand for 2 years before getting he ta22, it popped up and was like that will be handy in the future and sure enough it was
Nice, I love it when fate (A plan) comes together!!
I was looking at different distributors to replace the missing one, even thou I have a OEM 3TG distributor on hand, it occurred to me that other engines out there have used this twin plug design. SO I started doing a bit of research and found out the Alfa uses distributor caps and Rotor from the Nissan NAP-Z as a modification.
It gets better, since I can't leave well enough alone, I ordered in two different distributor caps and compared the spark plug wire connections which seem to be spaced exactly like the stock 3TG cap, but only two bolts rather than three.
So that got me thinking as I looked at a Nissan Stanza distributor cap which is also duel spark plug with three bolt to attach it to the distributor. I have not had a chance to see what the spacing is but, I wanted to throw this out and see if anyone else has gone down this path that I'm heading down. Because if it works, then an alternative cap and rotor may be a fix for the limited or nonexistent supply of 3TG distributor caps.
I also took a look at the NAP-Z distributor which arrived today (Two Bolt) and it can be modified to work as a replacement distributor, even though a crank trigger/Crank angle sensor (CAS) would solve all of these issues, I do like to test and modify parts so I have to see where this is gonna go.. Thanks for the ear!
Last edited by 73GTV; 12-04-2015 at 04:33 AM.
have you thought about getting rid of the dizzy altogether? Use a crank angle sensor or modify a 4AGE dizzy like I did and then use an aftermarket ECU?
I got performance ignition in Melbourne to mate up an RX7 S5 CAS to the stock shaft on my 2TG. Inside my dizzy I've got a 24-1 trigger and a single home trigger on top. Cost $300 to fab up and now my haltech can run full sequential.
Last edited by 73GTV; 12-04-2015 at 04:35 AM.
The details fo my CAS are on my Facebook page.
Date is June 2014 as there is more info at I posted about the mod.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Class...97253277080537
Last edited by TA22 GT; 12-04-2015 at 02:43 PM.
Bookmarks