Turbo And Fuel Economy Discussion :P

[Duk]

Witzl is right, no need to go faster to impress bogans... blowing them off wont show them up, it will just make them say other things. Build the car to how you want it, but it is most definitely important to make the car corner and stop better before engine improvements... as its for your own safety. Also if you really think your car handles well, go take an IS200 for a burn... you will realise then that it doesnt (I used to think my stock RA40 handled well... because it handled better than my brother's stock VH commo... how wrong was I??

If the bogans annoy you again, ask them to race... at a race track (racing on the streets is dangerous mmmmkay), and pick the tightest track with no straights. Your stock car will flog them.

HAHAHAHAHA! Nothing better than showing a bogan how it's done on the twisties . I had my MR2 on the local gokart track for a laugh and took a mate (yeh right ) for a ride and he was litterally grabbing the seat with both hands and syaing "SHIT SHIT!" approaching the first corner. He thought his Dunnydore was good too

[o_man_ra23]

CAI (even a home-made jobbie) is a cheap upgrade, but this suits a pod filter better than a stock air inlet modification.

Umm... you need to box up the pod to make CAI work... so unless your panel is reaaaaaally small, the difference between an average sized pod and a stock sized replacement panel (made of the same material) will be stuff all, and its already been mentioned that the stock box is pretty good. There is a lot to do with air harmonics inside a box that help flow more than having a greater filter surface area. Kinda like boxing a small speaker properly can make it louder than a big speaker boxed improperly (for proof, see the Bose Lifestyle range... they have a 6" subwoofer that will outdo most 12-15's)

[feral4mr2]

Feral, if your racing, start removing excess carpets and interior trimming... anything that quietens the road noise is bad for performance... so all that must go (dry ice is great for removing sound deadening, there was a writeup on it somewhere)

12 years of aw11 ownership i know whats needed to make it lighter, just havn't done so. need to sort some of rego before i start stripping it.

[oldcorollas]

You don't want a HUGE exhaust for N/A because they require back-pressure, and opening up the pipe diameter too far will make your car feel like it's getting nowhere through to somewhere in the mid rpm, then suddenly a burst of power as the exhaust flow and back-pressure is enough to catch up to the rest of the engine.

don't listen to this.. it is bullshit
no offence intended

as for original poster... you need to be more specific about the amount of $$ and amount of power you are after.

if you are only looking for $50 performance upgrade like air filter or spark plugs, that is very different to if you are looking for best power upgrade form $2000 or $10,000..
and having stoned bogans in a commodore as your inspiration for seeking performance seems misguided... more power will not make your car into a "real car" in their eyes, and dragging them from the lights is only sure to get you in trouble with cops, or whatever... so.. save it

[Andrew162]

don't listen to this.. it is bullshit
no offence intended

^^ the paradox incarnate. should have known you'd chime in to bag out a practical piece of advice, even though you believe it to be bullshit. we could argue this point to the death, but what's the use.

anyway I thought this thread was about trying to help this guy with (relatively) inexpensive mods?

PS: o_man, I've got an accoustics program somewhere here on my PC, that factors in different 'orders' of sound waves and all, which was useful when trying to select the proper type box for my sub, but yes I get your initial point.

[oldcorollas]

show me an engine that benefits from an exhaust that restricts the exhaust from getting out of the engine.... and i'll show you an engine that has the wrong cam for the rev range

a restrictive exhaust ONLY helps when the overlap is too big, and you are losing intake charge out the exhaust valve.

ironically, you will have maximum restriction at maximum revs.
conversely, you need more overlap at higher revs....

so you are using a restriction to overcome a problem when the problem no longer exists?????

unless you can explain it better

your practical advice is... wrong...
practical advice would be.. have a set of extractors made that are tuned to the rev range that you are aiming for (although stockers aren't bad), and then have as unrestrictive exhaust as noise will allow

[Mr Revhead]

a lot of ppl confuse backpressure with exhaust pulses


orginal question.... depending on model of 4age best bang for buck is a link ecu
most noticebly on the 20v ST

[The Real Roadrunner]

You don't want a HUGE exhaust for N/A because they require back-pressure, and opening up the pipe diameter too far will make your car feel like it's getting nowhere through to somewhere in the mid rpm, then suddenly a burst of power as the exhaust flow and back-pressure is enough to catch up to the rest of the engine. Extractors are a simple mod, but make sure the primary and secondary pipes are a generous diameter (like about 1/4" - 1/2" bigger than stock, and the rest of the exhaust piping the same diameter (maybe 2") the whole way through.

OC is correct as i to will have to call BS on this, once you are past the choke point of a set of extractors the biggest exhaust you can put under the car is the way to go (provided it meets noise requirements/regulations)

if you feel im somehow incorrect plz tell me but remember that my stock long 100kw engine with STquads and extractors made 90rwkw, cam timing was stock and it had a shitbox microtech mt8 controlling the fuel and ign (just) road tuned initialy. there was no comp change or anything and the best ive seen out of similar motors is 86rwHP.

mine also had a 3' exhaust under it which then reduced to 2.5 under the diff and out the rear.

cheers
linden

[The Witzl]

dear god that wouldve made your ears bleed Linden.

[o_man_ra23]

Performance... go a big exhaust, but be prepared for it to sound like a poofter farting on a little motor. I say no bigger than 2" due to noise, it sounds better that way, still quite loud, but not tinny and irritable. I am yet to hear a little motor with a big exhaust that sounds any good. Unless you pay big money for a non-restrictive muffler which does its job properly (cheap ones dont)... fibreglass packed mufflers produce a better sound too.

The CAI should just be a plastic funnel and a piece of pool hose thats the same diameter as the factory box intake. Place the funnel down near the road in your bumper somewhere facing forward, run the pool hose from the box to the funnel. Cut a hole in the bottom of the funnel slightly smaller than the diameter of the pool hose. Glue the pool hose to the funnel (poly cement like what plumbers use on downpipe is good) and clamp it onto the box intake... you may need to make an adaptor if your box does not have a circular intake. The funnel should be a big cone type one, as big as possible and smooth as possible. Other shapes will work, and you can make something out of light guage steel or aluminium sheeting if you want to make it to suit the bumper (does not have to be a circle)

[YLD-16L]

Place the funnel down near the road in your bumper somewhere facing forward..........

and avoid driving through any deep puddles if you get caught in a down pour.

[bje10s]

ditch the box and get a apexi power in take+pod (i was told not a defect because its not oiled)

also you can use a 5L petrol tin to save money on a heat shield

cut a hole with a angle grinder in the chassie wher the passanger head light, next gat some aircon hoseget some duct tape it on the front bar and run it from under the car and duct tape it on throught the hole and directly in2 the petrol tin.

it might sound like a joke but its what i did to my rolla and when ive been pulled over the cops just laugh(it lightens the mood)

might be good for up2 10kw with more torque.

the only way to get big power for the money is go TURBO!!! i dont no bout "ct20b" being that cheap tho... i got mine for $700 30000kms no shaft play mint condition landed. i only got it that cheap cuz i knew the guy in jap. id be looking somewher near $1000 as they are very rare

the "ct20b" name gets thrown around alot its really a ct26 of a gen3 mr2 engine so beware alot of people get ripped off being sold the old super ct20 or the ct26 gen2...

i highly rate this turbo i have a 3sgte gen2 in my mr2 and the turbo was blown when i got it so on went then "20b" and huge difference!!! 2000rpm spool and pulls all the way in2 the redline

[feral4mr2]

might be good for up2 10kw with more torque.

10kw from a tin covered air filter? get your hand off it mate.

[The Real Roadrunner]

dear god that wouldve made your ears bleed Linden.

nope, the induction noise from the quads was louder than the exhaust, oh how i miss teh rolla, and i believe i have all rights to say it was THE best AE71 in the country *goes off to get a tissue*

cheers
linden

[o_man_ra23]

Now theres some BS... the CT20b was an improved later version of the CT20, and is NOT the CT26 of the Gen 3 3S-GTE's. You can pick up good condition CT20b's for $300. The CT26 range will be too big and laggy for a 4A due to the lack of capacity. A CT12 will spool up really quick, lots of low down torque, and great midrange, but your top end wont be as crash hot as a bigger turbo. Still better than NA though, and arguably the car will be quicker off the mark and more responsive than with a CT20.

Of course, you could get a GT25 ballbearing Garret turbo brand new for about $1000, so why would you pay anywhere near that for a secondhand CT20?? Regardless of condition??

ditch the box and get a apexi power in take+pod (i was told not a defect because its not oiled)

also you can use a 5L petrol tin to save money on a heat shield

cut a hole with a angle grinder in the chassie wher the passanger head light, next gat some aircon hoseget some duct tape it on the front bar and run it from under the car and duct tape it on throught the hole and directly in2 the petrol tin.

it might sound like a joke but its what i did to my rolla and when ive been pulled over the cops just laugh(it lightens the mood)

might be good for up2 10kw with more torque.

the only way to get big power for the money is go TURBO!!! i dont no bout "ct20b" being that cheap tho... i got mine for $700 30000kms no shaft play mint condition landed. i only got it that cheap cuz i knew the guy in jap. id be looking somewher near $1000 as they are very rare

the "ct20b" name gets thrown around alot its really a ct26 of a gen3 mr2 engine so beware alot of people get ripped off being sold the old super ct20 or the ct26 gen2...

i highly rate this turbo i have a 3sgte gen2 in my mr2 and the turbo was blown when i got it so on went then "20b" and huge difference!!! 2000rpm spool and pulls all the way in2 the redline