The Spray Painting Thread

[Muzza]

yeah iv just been through a short course.
they showed using the plastic putty, plastic primer filler, plastic primer then use the normal paint. its alright from what i saw.
but your situation get him to pay for a new rear bar and respray. i reckon

[nuk1ear]

i think might be a bit over the top in price tho, its an evo 8, not sure how long id have to wait for a bumper too. If i took it to one of the RACV joints they would surely patch it up

[trd_st184]

I know this thread is more designated around Spray Painting but could anyone recommend a cheap kit for Paintless Dent Removal? I'm super keen to try it out on a few test 1/4 panels that I have here.

I was also wondering if anyone has any advice for levelling out the clear coat thats peeling on my car? I know its going to get worse in time but I tried wet sanding down a few areas with 2000 grit and it came up pretty good, it took some time but it was only taking a little bit of the edge that makes peeling clear coat so horrible to look at.

I am also wondering if my Toyota MR2 1990 model would have just been sprayed in acrylic? The Red Paints back then were very average.

If I was to respray the car in Acrylic paint and I was to wear a properly suited mask is there any reason that this would be harmful to my health? I have one of those dual filter masks with a rubber surrounding. I would also wear eye protection too.

["Z" UTE]

trd_st184, peeling clearcoat does look bad, doesn't it. That appears to happen with all the Toyota's of that era. My mate has a couple of ST185's and both have that issue. There appears to have been a mismatch between the colour and clear compounds. I have a feeling that water borne paints were in the infancy at that time. The clear will have been a traditional 2pak, so the chemical formulations had not really been worked out.

If you want to repaint in acrylic, you will need to remove all of that clearcoat, as sanded feather edges will react badly with the new paint. Or you could just knock the whole car back and apply a primer before you colour and clear. The primer will act as an isolator and prevent the edges from frying. A vapour filter cartridge is what you need in any of the commonly available masks. A dust mask will be useless.

cheers Chuck.

[trd_st184]

trd_st184, peeling clearcoat does look bad, doesn't it. That appears to happen with all the Toyota's of that era. My mate has a couple of ST185's and both have that issue. There appears to have been a mismatch between the colour and clear compounds. I have a feeling that water borne paints were in the infancy at that time. The clear will have been a traditional 2pak, so the chemical formulations had not really been worked out.

If you want to repaint in acrylic, you will need to remove all of that clearcoat, as sanded feather edges will react badly with the new paint. Or you could just knock the whole car back and apply a primer before you colour and clear. The primer will act as an isolator and prevent the edges from frying. A vapour filter cartridge is what you need in any of the commonly available masks. A dust mask will be useless.

cheers Chuck.

Thanks for that Chuck. I was able to sand back a few of the edges and polish over and it was better than what it is at the moment. Is there anything I should watch out for when sanding down the clear coat since its 2pak regarding health concerns?

I will no doubt skim back all of the clearcoat so i'm down to just the original base if I was to paint the car.

What would I be looking at roughly in supplies to paint a Toyota MR2 SW20 with paint and clear in acrylic? Should there be any reason why the paint couldn't come up really well if the prep was done correctly? I know this might sound strange but I was thinking about paint in sections, bumpers, rear 1/4 sections and roof, then 1/4 panels.

It would make it much easier to isolate bad areas but subsequently take more time.

["Z" UTE]

The iscyanide found in liquid 2pak is bound within the particles of the 2 pak dust, so a mask would be appropriate.

4 litres of primer, 4 litres of colour, 4 litres of clear, and 10-15 litres of midway thinners. (not fast, not slow thinners)
320 wet and dry, 800 wet and dry.

Buying by the individual litre can get real expensive. It will be 40% cheaper to buy your paint by the 4 litre can, unless you are real good terms with the paint supplier.


Mate of mine did his Mini over 5 days at work, a panel or two each lunchtime!

cheers Chuck.

[trd_st184]

The iscyanide found in liquid 2pak is bound within the particles of the 2 pak dust, so a mask would be appropriate.

4 litres of primer, 4 litres of colour, 4 litres of clear, and 10-15 litres of midway thinners. (not fast, not slow thinners)
320 wet and dry, 800 wet and dry.

Buying by the individual litre can get real expensive. It will be 40% cheaper to buy your paint by the 4 litre can, unless you are real good terms with the paint supplier.


Mate of mine did his Mini over 5 days at work, a panel or two each lunchtime!

cheers Chuck.

Thanks for the advice Chuck. I'm hoping to go Acrylic but i'm still somewhat worried about the health affects even using a mask.

I suppose i'll be glad to get rid of all the 2 pak clear.

I need to find one of those cheap tents to make up an enclosure for when spraying each area to make it easy.

It does seem much easier to do the whole car at once though. I can just go down and lay down each quote at once.

I have an offer from a company to do the car for about $400 in 2 pak but I have to supply the goods. It seems like a better option, preparation will take the longest but I have no worries taking my time as its a project car.

I will mask the car once I get there. I was going to take off as many trims as possible, front and back lights, seals.

I'm still debating removing the windscreen as yet. It would likely to need replacing anyway as there is a chip in it for roadworthy.

Thanks Chuck

[dnegative]

2pac is like asbestos, provided you dont work with the shit on a daily basis the odd whiff here and there wont be any more detrimental to your health than eating a fucking good steak.

["Z" UTE]

It does seem much easier to do the whole car at once though. I can just go down and lay down each quote at once.

I have an offer from a company to do the car for about $400 in 2 pak but I have to supply the goods. It seems like a better option, preparation will take the longest but I have no worries taking my time as its a project car.

I will mask the car once I get there. I was going to take off as many trims as possible, front and back lights, seals.

I'm still debating removing the windscreen as yet. It would likely to need replacing anyway as there is a chip in it for roadworthy.

Thanks Chuck

$400.00 to lay on some paint, with you doing the prepwork is pretty darn good. Find a PPG supplier, and purchase their "cheaper barnd" just as good but not the high dollar. You will buy all the paint necessary for the job for under $800.00. I spent a grand on paint supplies for one car, but that was some fancy schizzle paints.


The prep work is the key to a good paint job, spend as much time as you can to get it right.

cheers Chuck.

["Z" UTE]

I have just purchased a 3M product that really helps in the final sanding process. This has got to be the best guide coat ever, it is a cannister of graphite powder with a microfibre applicator pad. Just rub the impregnated graphite over your primer, in lieu of a sprayed on guide coat. This ultra fine powder gets ino every microscopic low spot and really effectively highlights the lows, even showed up a thumbprint in the paintwork. Reminds me of when the coppers fingerprinted my stolen and recovered RA28!

This is sooo much better than spraying on some chassis black or some other painted on guide coat. I was finding that the sprayed on paint guide coat was harder than the primer, clogged the sandpaper and scratched the primer that had been so carefully applied.

Apparently panel beaters and painters have been using the product for a few years,

cheers Chuck.

[1JZ-Rolla]

Good find Chuck, tell us the price!

I always thought that graphite however caused issues with paint adhesion if any is left behind, such as pencil lines etc? Or is it something other than the graphite in pencils that causes the problem?

["Z" UTE]

Phil, somewhere in the vicinity of $50.00, bought a bit of gear off Jeff at the time. Washes off with soap and water. Thought that might be a problem when wet sanding, as I always use a capfull of sugar soap in the bucket of water, but you have to scrub pretty hard to get the graphite powder off, so no dramas at all.

Touch wood I have never had a problem with pencil marks, probably because I only use the pencil to mark low spots for filling with a putty, and those marks generally get sanded of when dressing down the filler, or scuffing before application of the filler.

Would love to know the exact problem with the lead pencil though, anyone got the info?

BTW that graphite kit will probably do 20 plus cars, so per car price, very economical. Will be available to those in the area that need to use it,

cheers Chuck.

[thechuckster]

pencils usually have a binder/glue in the graphite core - so the more you rub on, the more non-carbon gunk you have to remove.

btw, interesting to learn that graphite power pops up in all sorts of places - my mum uses it as a dry-lube for her harpsicord (think small piano but the strings are plucked instead hammered... enough of the music trivia). It's also ideal for getting locks to work smoothly as it doesn't clog up the mechanisms like a grease does.

You can/used-to be able to buy it in a puffer and I guess you use it for painting: puff/blow it sideways over the primer, single-direction wipe with an enyo or similar glass-polishing microfibre cloth, stand back in awe of the divots and scratches in the paint.

btw: the stuff in powder for is also quite flammable - puff it over a cigarette lighter

[1JZ-Rolla]

I'm going out to the garage right now to set my graphite puffer on fire And to think all this time I've only used it for lubricating locks, when I could have been having pyro-fun!

[Jeri]

Hi... I'm wanting to spray some stock rims... Just wanted to know if it would be the same procedure as painting a panel? Or do we use different type of paint? Thanks
I want it to be glossy..