The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

nuk1ear, find out who did the respray, then find out which brand of paint was used, the colour should have been mixed to a formula. Get the formula reproduced in a 1 litre batch. Be aware that 2 panels sprayed with exactly the same colour from the same can can come out different. It depends on primer colour, and application technique, any time lag will also cause colour variances ie. paint one panel today and the next three weeks later and there will be a minute difference in colour.

Chuckster 0.5mm mild steel will be fine for most panel repairs.


cheers Chuck.

[nuk1ear]

THANKS Z
Regarding the paint brand etc, i still have some in the original tin, so i know the brand. Regarding the exact mixture, i dont think ill be able to find that out unless its on the can somewhere? But is it true that a 2pac can never be matched with an acryllic? I thought 2pac was just a bit glossier?

["Z" UTE]

nuk1ear, the two types of paint are made from different base stock. You certainly cant mix them, but getting a colour match is possible. There should be an alpha/numeric code for each paint colour, and it should be marked on the tin. That code can be used by the paint shop to mix the colour in either 2pac or acrylic.

cheers Chuck.

[poida]

Chuck, big thanks for all of your input here. I'm also looking at buying a welder for some panel work and am just beginning to do some research on what to buy

[nuk1ear]

Hey all,
Im preparing my boot lid and spoiler at the moment. The paint condition is good but there are a couple of spots on it (around the size of a finger) where there is a scrap down to the metal. On the spoiler, one of the legs has a small gash in it also.

Am i right for the boot lid that i can use the current paint as a base, except in the scape areas, and sand with 400grit. For the gashed areas, clean it perfectly, then use rust converter/paint prep and then body filler to raise the level up a bit, sand with 240/320 to level it out, then prime (no etch prime because the metal should be covered with body filler). Sand with 400 and continue with primer and sanding until its exactly the same level as the rest of the paint? Guide coat, sand etc until satisfied with a perfect level on the repaired area?

Sound ok? when sanding down the body filler with 240/320, should i use any special sanding block? I also have a random orbital and 400grit pads which may be useful?

[justsendit269]

Quick question, i can't exactly read the whole thread -.-
I have an air compressor, roughly the specs of this http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...air+compressor
I bought this, http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...pressor&page=2
It's having a hard time running it..

I want to know where and what's a good air compressor to buy for this, and to paint a car etc, a long with some other air tools..
Doesn't have to be full industrial, but a cheap-ish air compressor to get the job done good.

Or could you tell me the specifications of an air compressor that i should be looking for..

Any help will be much appreciated, Ben

["Z" UTE]

Rule 1, air tools chew the air.

Rule 2, if you are going to use air tools, buy the biggest damn compressor you can afford, then be disappointed when you have to wait for that to charge up enough to drive your air tools.

Rule 3, stay away from direct drive compressors, they are all chinese junk, my son got given a half dozen for scrap metal, all returned because of faults, main one broken crank and con rods.

A 120-150 psi compressor with minimum 14 cubic foot tank, is what I would recommend, anything smaller and the air tools run them out of air too quick. Even 14 cubic foot tank is marginal, but anything larger will cost lotsa dollars.



I have a Peerless 2.5hp 14 cubic footer, works well for spraying, but not so good on the air tools,

cheers Chuck.

[Daddio]

Daddios converse rule: get two cheapo compressors with 10-15L tanks, link the outputs (use a bit of imagination!) and it will run air tools (I have two cheapos from Bunnings with 10 cu ft tanks, linked off the unregulated out puts, then a water trap/regulator and a single 15mm ID line to run air tools and the spray gun. The two plus fittings cost less than my 25cfm Atlas Copco compressor.

[justsendit269]

Rule 1, air tools chew the air.

Rule 2, if you are going to use air tools, buy the biggest damn compressor you can afford, then be disappointed when you have to wait for that to charge up enough to drive your air tools.

Rule 3, stay away from direct drive compressors, they are all chinese junk, my son got given a half dozen for scrap metal, all returned because of faults, main one broken crank and con rods.

A 120-150 psi compressor with minimum 14 cubic foot tank, is what I would recommend, anything smaller and the air tools run them out of air too quick. Even 14 cubic foot tank is marginal, but anything larger will cost lotsa dollars.



I have a Peerless 2.5hp 14 cubic footer, works well for spraying, but not so good on the air tools,

cheers Chuck.

I have a 2.5hp i dont know about the psi, the cubic feet is tiny like between 2-4(50litres lol) i can run a reserve tank thats possibly twice the size?
But it still seems a tad weak for that tool :/

Daddios, that sounds like a good idea.. kinda regarding the reserve tank^?

[Daddio]

I have a 2.5hp i dont know about the psi, the cubic feet is tiny like between 2-4(50litres lol) i can run a reserve tank thats possibly twice the size?
But it still seems a tad weak for that tool :/

Daddios, that sounds like a good idea.. kinda regarding the reserve tank^?

TBH I did it out of necessity when I was doing a large deck job and one compressor just couldn't keep up with the nail gun. I just nipped into Bunnings and got another compressor and a "Y" piece to link the two outputs.
I only use the two little compressors when on site as the Atlas runs fine at home (too big to move around though) however I may link all three when I do some sandblasting...
And yes, you can always add a tank (or two!) just bear in mind it will take a fair while to pressurise with a small compressor...

[justsendit269]

TBH I did it out of necessity when I was doing a large deck job and one compressor just couldn't keep up with the nail gun. I just nipped into Bunnings and got another compressor and a "Y" piece to link the two outputs.
I only use the two little compressors when on site as the Atlas runs fine at home (too big to move around though) however I may link all three when I do some sandblasting...
And yes, you can always add a tank (or two!) just bear in mind it will take a fair while to pressurise with a small compressor...

Sweet dude, ill get onto ! / ask my grandpa exactly how, and he'll just come do it lol

[SHEPPO3930]

Hi all,

I was told by my paint supply shop that I can paint 2 pack solid colour over an acrylic primer.

I trust these guys but when every second person on the net says u can't do it, I start to question.

So can it be done?

Cheers.

[twentyEight]

It certainly can, I use to do this when I was painting professionally.

Just spray it evenly, and don't over coat. Most have a good curing time and sand well, but don't spray it too thick.

[roadkill]

Hi All,

so i'm nearly ready to start painting the roof of my FJ40 landcruiser. I really want to paint in 2pak at home using iso free. Does anybody have any experience with it? Is it safe or do i still need a booth? If it is shit, does anyone have experience in enamel at home? I really don't want to use acrylic as i want the paint to actually last

bEn

[SHEPPO3930]

Just spray it evenly, and don't over coat. Most have a good curing time and sand well, but don't spray it too thick.

i assume you are refering to the acrylic primer?

so if i put on a thin coat of acrylic primer, sand it back, then throw on the 2k top coat it should be ok?

primer is Concept Paints Acrylic Primer Filler (grey), top coat is De Beer Beromix 2000 series 2k solid colour.