The Spray Painting Thread

[TurboRA28]

So after weeks of prep I finally put the colour on the bus today.
It turned out totally amazing, massive ego tonight. It is like 10x better than I expected.

Now for questions as usual.

My first coat got some runs. After the first coat I got the nack and no more runs. But for the ones I got which are pretty bad, what's my best plan of attack?

Next, I'm doing a big fat strip down the center of it, which I masked up and didn't paint. Tomorrow I plan on masking the color I put down so I can spray the strip. Will it be ok to put masking tape on the paint after a day? I don't want to pull it up.

Thanks
Joel

[ian]

hi joel
i might not be able to explain clearly , as i have had a few quiet ales
you need to get some ultrafine bog
pull it over the run ,
wait untill it cures then gently rub back evenly until all the bog has gone ,this should take the run /high spots back to the same surface level as the rest of the paint
if that makes sense

["Z" UTE]

Joel the simplest solution for removing the runs, is as follows, small matchbox size block of wood, some 2000 wet and dry paper, and a trigger bottle full of soapy water. Soak the 2000 paper in a bucket of soapy water for ten minutes before you use it. wrap some 2000 around the block of wood and start sanding the runs. Use the soapy water in the spray bottle to keep the surface wet. rinse your paper in the bucket of soapy water occasionaly. Listen to the paper doing its job, if you get a scratching sound, you have caught a dag of paint in the paper, turn the paper or grab some fresh paper.

You could start with 1200 or 1500 paper if there are lotsa runs, but you have to take care not to take too much paint off with the coarser paper, always finish sand with 2000 or if you can get it 3000. Compound and buff, and all will be sweet.

The paint will be well and truly "tape free" by tomorrow, so go ahead and mask on the new paint.

cheers Chuck

[TurboRA28]

Ive heard stories of using a razor blade to take the run off?

["Z" UTE]

If your primary occupation is microsurgeon, by all means give the razor a go.
Paint shops use what they call a "razor", it is in actual fact a diamond blade in a special housing. One wipe and a run is gone.

cheers Chuck.

[ta22fan]

Hi all,

Taken me ages, but yesterday finally finished painting my '74 TA22 project car in the original Toyota "Copper". Pretty happy with the result (chopped pic attached).

Next step is to buff the top coat. I'm after suggestions on best equipment and approach to follow - after all this effort I'd like to get a good final result.

Paul


IMG_0110 (100k).JPG

["Z" UTE]

ta22fan, the way to get a brilliant finish to your paint work is to colour sand it before buffing. To colour sand, you need 2000 wet and dry paper, soapy water and a small matchbox size block of wood. If you have some little bits of crap in the paint, use some 1500 wet to quickly knock those down.

Soak the 2000 in some soapy water for 10 minutes, this softens the paper so the paper does not scratch the paint. Now wrap the 20o0 around your block of wood, wet the surface of the panel with soapy water (trigger spray bottle works well for this) start sanding, try to do any area no bigger than an A4 sheet of paper at one time. What you are looking for is a surface devoid of orange peel, to check your progress squeegee the water and slurry off the area you are working, when the surface is dry, it should be very flat and quite dull. Do the entire car this way, it is time consuming but the result is worth the effort.

When you have finished sanding, clean all the slurry off the car, and get stuck into the buffing. Use a variable speed buffing machine and some cutting compound, G3 or JUICE are the biz. use a white/yellow/pink foam pad on the buffing machine. Do a quarter of the bonnet at a time as an example, try to do the entire panel and you will lose sight of what you are doing, you need to focus on one section at a time. When finished with the cutting compound, switch over to a soft black foam pad and some swirl remover, attack the whole car again. Wash the car to get all the compound and slurry off before you apply some Mothers Sealer and Glaze. Buff that to a shine, then apply a wax, and buff that to a shine. Use microfibre cloths to buff off the sealer and glaze, same for the wax. Job done.

You can buy a buffing machine from SupaCRap for about $70.00 the pads are about $10.00 each. Do not use a wool buff, as they tend to scratch new paint.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

As for the 'Razor' to remove runs, a friend at work bought an item which I believe is made of tungsten, which you scrape along the run until it is flat. Quite expensive, but it works.

[S. Lowlux]

If you don't have at least one run on the job somewhere, you don't have enough paint on the job.
This was told to me by a paint rep, years ago when the trade was first starting to use 2 pack.
Owen.

[TurboRA28]

Not really the place for this, but I wanted to show a few before and after shots of the paint work... will work on runs in a week or so. Also advice on removing over spray? I got some of the blue on the yellow. Thanks again for everyones help! Couldn't have done it otherwise.

[ian]

if its only minor overspray it should buff out or rub it out with #800 wet
if not wipe it with a cloth dampened with thinners
then wash straightaway

[1JZ-Rolla]

Classic Joel! Those Coasters look like an oversized Kombi van

["Z" UTE]

Joel, just follow the procedure I outlined above to ta22fan, that will remove all of your overspray, and the end product will look a million dollars,


cheers Chuck.

[1JZ-Rolla]

Despite the cold temps in Canberra today, I was forced by a closing timeline to get stuck into laying some 2K primer on my front guards, with the aid of a gas heater to warm the garage up first.

My last effort with this paint was with it thinned 10% and shot at a relatively low air pressure, which had the paint failing to atomise very well, you could see solid droplets at the edge of the spray pattern.

This time I had it thinned closer to 20% (not needing the high fill properties) and a few extra psi air pressure (55psi at the compressor, on a 10m hose) which resulted in a much wider fan, and great atomisation. However, the overspray fine dust in my garage is phenomenal! I had no idea while spraying, but looking afterwards its like a dust storm blew through.

Anyways, two questions for those of you more experienced than I please:


1.) The finish off the gun is fine enough that i'd be happy to top coat straight over it, rather than blocking it back unnecessarily. Can I do this? I know I could have gone "wet on wet", laying the topcoat colour straight over the primer once it flashed off, but what if the primer is fully cured (2-3 days), can I still overcoat it as is with a single stage solid colour?


2.) I intend to paint the inside of the guards also in 2K, since I don't run any splash guards, and need a durable seal. I'll do this before I topcoat the outside of the panel, am I best to mask the edge to avoid paint "curling" around onto the front of the panel, or can I get away with leaving the edge/front open to overspray, without having to block back any resulting (hopefully minor) overspray?


Many thanks in advance... this thread has been a great resource for my limited spray painting skills, i'm learning plenty!

Cheers
Phil

["Z" UTE]

Phil, the 2-3 day old paint will need to be scuffed up otherwise the new topcoat will slide off. Instead of needlessly sanding, just grab a painters red scotchbrite pad and give the guard a light rub over, this will provide the necessary key.

On your second point, spray the inside of the guard before you go ahead with the keying of the outer surface, any minor overspray will scuff off with the scotchbrite pad. If you do get a decent smear of paint on the outside, again the scothcbrite will key that up as well.

Come and grab some of my ute bed 2K texture paint for the inside of the guards. My Celica will be getting that treatment in the rear wheel arches as well as the front guards.

cheers Chuck.