The Spray Painting Thread

[o_man_ra23]

Tell ya what, two half litre mixes of high build primer doesn't go as far as you think!! Might end up buying more primer (also need to do the ute at some point). With any luck I'll have the engine bay fully painted by this weekend

I am currently planning to paint the bonnet bulge in a black mica - probably grab a crumpledoor colour or similar.

[oldcorollas]

ooook.....
started removing the old shite "stuff" on the car..

the layer next to the paint is white and very soft (and thick.. 1-3mm?) and has been applied directly to the metal.. which looks to have been roughened by some power tool
wondering if this stuff is spray bog? smells a bti like it
this crap peels off the metal in places, but other places it is fairly adherent.. tho there are some cracks here and there originating from that layer..

on top of that is grey primer, then pink stuff (spray putty? high build something?) then grey primer then topcoat, then grey primer, than a bit more topcoat.... then what looks like soft high build grey shite...

this is not looking good


so plan of attack..
rip back to the wavy metal (sand off the small spots of surface rust)
deoxidine
prime with something... (etchprimer instead of deoxidine?)
bog to build up edges around taillights again....
spray some highbuild something (how thick is ok?) to go over wavyness... maybe need 1-2mm min?
prime
colour
clear...

what are options for the build phase? spray bog does not sound appealing, nor does covering whole car in bog by wiping.....
(edit: this was meant to be quick n dirty..... but it looks like it will nto be quick )

["Z" UTE]

Your best option here is to pull the paint and bog off using a "Grafiti removal disc" a big plastic birds nest that fits your angle grinder.

The white soft shite is either bog that has not had enough hardner mixed with it, or a poor quality high fill primer.

If you can mechanically remove the rust, you can just use etch primer, however if there is any possibility of some small specs of corrosion then the deoxidine is a must.

Try your hand at panel beating with a proper planishing hammer and dollies, SupaCrap sell cheap and nasty set, good enough for at least one car. Finish your shaping with some good quality bog.

For the wavy areas, pray multiple coats of highfill primer, sanding between each coat to bring the high spots down.

Clear coat is generally only needed on speciality paints,(metalics, pearls and candies) most tinted base colours can be supplied in glossyour paint supplier.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Hammer and dolley will greatly reduce the amount of filler/primer you use.

Got pics of the 'shite' you have been stripping off??

[oldcorollas]

thanks for the advice!

i think the panel (rear 1/4 in particular) has been "hammer and dollied" to death
hadn't taken pictures as yet. started skimming over it already, but i can probably just rip another bit off

as this is just to be daily shitter, i'm thinking a bare metal strip is really not worth the effort. (it has been taken back to bare metal by previous owner, so any original protective layers have been replaced by the white bog stuff)
I think it is polyester based bog.. smells like it when ripping off with wire brush

strongly thinking to just give up, bog over the dodgy bits, sand back the two colour/primer layers down to the highfill, then go from there...

[o_man_ra23]

Heat will help your hammering and dolleying to get a better result. It has likely just been hammered to death...

["Z" UTE]

strongly thinking to just give up, bog over the dodgy bits, sand back the two colour/primer layers down to the highfill, then go from there...

Any new paint applied, will only ever be as good as the base. Good preparation is the key.

As Owen mentioned a bit of heat, even from a butane torch, will relieve the hardening caused by the previuos hammering.

To shrink a patch on a panel that has bulged, use your heat source to get an area about the size of a 10 cent piece cherry red, using hammer and dolly hammer around the red spot, effectively pushing the metal into the centre of the hot spot. You can use a wet rag to quench the metal which also aids in the shrinking process. Many "hot spots" may be required, depending on the size of the panel.You will have to aneal these areas when satisfied with the shape of the panel.

cheers Chuck.

[oldcorollas]

I know i "should" tap i out, but... the previous kiddies have made it ripple every 5-10cm or so.. at least on this rear 1/4...
thinking now as long as the paint will not slough off in sheets in the next 2 years.... it'll do
there are a few things on this car that raise eyebrows, so it will nto be for sale as a runner in the forseeable future so i am not so concerned with makign it look pretty, jusyt servicable for daily use. if the paint cracks.. not so bad.. maybe not so good if it crazes..

in the pic below.. i wire brushed to rough up the edge, but the scratches in the metal are from previous kids angle grinder..
1) then there is one, sometimes two layers of the white stuff. it kinda reminds me of dried up toothpaste, but smells like normal bog when being wire brushed (up to 3 or 4mm thick on flat surfaces)
2) then grey primer(?)
3) then pinky high fill type shite (spray putty?)
4) then grey
5) then pink
6) then grey
*7) then Blue (topcoat)
8) then grey
9) then Blue
and in most places:
10) then grey
11) then some highfill rough grey shite

(layers from * were removed by wood chisel in the pic.. it was rather brittle and flakey, but the pink stuff seems solid, albeit a bit soft...)

in some areas, there is good adhesion between the white shite and the scratched up metal, but in some places, there is no longer any contact at all.. and it peels off in a semi flexible manner

so i'm thinking.. skim bog the bits i've revealed so far, grind back the soft topcoat(s), maybe an isolator type primer, then whack on some colour and go drive?

[troysota]

Rust Converter, Cavity Wax, Stone Gaurd & Proofcote

All available !!!!!

See Below.

[o_man_ra23]

Stu, I would rip off the readily removed bits of old crap at a minimum. This would allow you to put a proper base down for your paint to stick to. It isn't so much the looks that I would do this for (as you can put a fairly bodgy layer of bog on to get a generally ok shape), it is more for rust prevention, as rust stains coming out your paint really doesn't look good.

[JZA70R_92]

ok ive welded in my sill panel only one bit will need some filler to match the profile of the sill about 2mm worth it all to steel not rust lol....what is a good way to protect the weld etc sill from behind....as cannot get paint in there

[troysota]

Forch Body Cavity Wax, its way better than the old Fish Oil.

[viccelicara23]

Hi,
Over the Christmas holidays i am planning on respraying my hilux and was wondering what the best way to paint the raised toyota on the tailgate in black after respraying the rest in white.
picture for reference to what im talking about

Thanks in advance

[pac]

why paint it, Toyota dont pay you for advertising do they

[o_man_ra23]

why paint it, Toyota dont pay you for advertising do they

Because the tailgate is more aesthetically pleasing that way.

Very careful masking starting with extremely thin tape would be the only way I would know to perform such a feat. Hopefully there is a better trick (stencil perhaps??)