The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

The paint supplier was adamant that the two were compatible.

Sounds like, " trust me, this wont hurt a bit".

From your description, and this latest info, I would hazard a guess that there was some incompatability between the paints and or the thinners

If I am using a basecoat colour and 2pak clear over the top, I will use the 2pak thinners in the basecolour, it just eliminates one more variable from the equation.

Find an area that is not real noticeable on the car, and give it a light sand with 800, if you see specs of primer/colour showing in the paint as it gets smoother then you will have to do the whole paint thing again. If no primer or colour comes through, then wet rub with 2000, and do the colour sanding on the rest of the car.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Paint supplier when I ordered the paint did some investigation into the compatibility. Not sure if it involved contacting the manufacturers, or waiting an hour and ringing me back with assurance. They do appear knowledgable though, and the bloke I originally spoke with had been in the paint game longer than I have been alive.

Will give the sanding test a go though...

[oldcorollas]

went to VG autopaint course today.
was pretty good, especially for those that have not had hands on experience of spraying yet.

abotu 40-50 people there, adn the guys were very good with questions.

was very much demo based, going from filling small dents, prepping surface, primer, spray putty, blocking, feathering etc etc, up to blending and clear coat, and finish with buffing and hand polish.

gave people a chance to handle the gun and have a bash (resulting in a panel literally dripping with paint )

would be good to grab a few toymods ppl and go out there sometime, make a morning of it.

also walked away with a Workquip gun for $100 ($20 off their instore price. woo.....hoo... )... i figured it was cheap incentive, and at worst will be a primer/putty gun if it works out not so good, then i can always get something better for topcoat later.
there are some burrs etc in it, so will give it a good "post-manufacture" finish and maybe it will spray ok

also got some new nikki and will rip off the old stuff.... looking forward to tomorrow might need to nick over and get one of those graffiti removers instead of using wire brush

[o_man_ra23]

That looks the same as the one I paid $80 for 4 years ago. Worked well for a while, but the plastic cap at the top has fallen apart with age, and the gun has clogged up with shit a bit (possibly though some lack of maintenance). Will do a decant job on top coats though, I got a fairly reasonable result on the 2k silver COB that I did the motorbike in, as well as the industrial enamel I did the ol' RA40 in.

[oldcorollas]

i believe it is the same cups n caps are pretty cheap, and seems you can get full seal kits for them too... even if only the stand survives after a couple of cars, will still be good value
Glad to hear it worked for you! gives me hope

the fluid nozzle and needle look reasonably well made. the air cap small holes have some burrs and shit, but easily fixed i spose. seems everything is covered with a film (or more) of oil, so miht need a bit of a clean out before first use...

will do the job for now = inspiration and no excuses

[o_man_ra23]

Hmmm... might have to look at getting a new cap and cup. Should also see about a smaller cup and cap for the Transtar too, for when I am doing smaller work.

[oldcorollas]

this might fit? http://shop.evic.com.au/SGIWPC802/60...ity-Pot/pd.php

seal kit http://shop.evic.com.au/SGWOSA102/P1...ice-Kit/pd.php

others and smaller pot
http://www.bccoatings.com.au/index.p...it=50&start=50

[oldcorollas]

i might be being pedantic, but is it worth pulling down a new gun, to remove any traces of oil in the air and paint paths? might be enough to run thinner through paint path, but is it worth cleaning out air path too?
or not worth worrying about?

[o_man_ra23]

I don't think it would be a bad thing to strip it and clean it with thinners.

["Z" UTE]

On the generic brands of guns, I would drag out the drill bits, and use the bits to hand remove any burs/lips at the entry and exit to the air holes. A light touch would be the go. The needle may need a quick swipe with 2000 paper, just to ensure it is free of machineing burs. Re assemble and put 50ml of thinners in the pot. Connect air line, and as you depress the trigger, with a rag cover and uncover all the air and fluid orifices in the nozzle, this will flush any crap out of the gun and into the cup, empty the cup, and then give that a quick rinse through with some more thinners.

A very good investment for any spray painting, is a bunch of gun filters, they slip into the gun before you fit the pot. Also buy yourself half a dozen "dunces cap" filters. You can reuse them provided you are scrupulous with the cleaning.

Another tip for the new painter, is to grab some fitch brushes or artists brushes, use them to clean out the lip of the paint can before you put the lid back on. A clean can will seal so much better. Always seal the can by hammering down at the lip, and not at the centre, once the centre has bowed, you will never get a good seal on your can of expensive auto paint.

cheers Chuck.

[takai]

Those lids are the go for auto paint. Wicked idea, i love mine.

[JZA70R_92]

whats the best way to clean the guns I find thats the thing that stuffs me around lol. also is it possible to get an epoxy primer in acrylic as ive heard bog can stick to it and i rather lay down a primer 1st and bog,....anything to stop rust ill be using rage gold filler!!

also ive been using a cheap $40 suction feed gun from bunnings and I find I can paint good with that for some reason using any type of HLVP gun makes paint come out dry and thin no matter how I adjust it. so must be my compressor. 2.5hp bunnings jobbie!!

["Z" UTE]

JZA70R_92, mate you just have to adjust the air pressure down at your regulator. The suction gun consumes 2.5 the volume of air that a gravity gun will use. I run 35-45psi on a 9 metre hose, and up it by another 5 psi, if I add another 9 metres of hose.

cheers Chuck.

[JZA70R_92]

hmm cheers chuck will give that a go hey scratch that just had a look im running appox 70psi thorugh them........says on the box I got needs 70psi regardless ill try your idea out chuck

[o_man_ra23]

Bought a graffiti remover yesterday after work. Should have done that a year ago. Anyone who is stripping paint and doesn't have a graffiti remover is waisting time and money. It even ripped through the old 2k paint that has been clogging the sander and making the wire brush useless. Best of all, it leaves the metal shiny, so surface rust doesn't start after 2 seconds, and it doesn't remove any zinc coatings.

Third layer of bog on the passenger door, looking better than it did, however it is taking a lot more bog than I would have liked. I think I will replace that door eventually (had to replace the driver's door due to lack of useable metal). Hopefully tomorrow I can start priming it, assuming I get my uber power mirror mount made and welded on...