The Spray Painting Thread

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

well thats worked out a lot better. Paper still clogs, but nowhere as quick (dry sanding primer/filler)

[o_man_ra23]

Export matt black from supercheap 4tw

It's all I have ever used and never had a problem. It barely sticks when it's used properly so as a dust coat it is perfect.

That's generally enamel (though barely)

Acrylic primer is porous. If you want issues with your topcoat, you are welcome to use it.

[DrNick]

I also use the aussie export stuff for the mist coat. Are you saying that I would get better results using an acrylic mist coat? This never ocurred to me. Repco sell the spraycans of acrylic too so its easy enough to swap, I just use whatever I have lying around the shed since I thought it was all being removed anyway.

Learning new things all the time here

[o_man_ra23]

Yes, better to use an acrylic mist, as the aussie export enamel can give you eventual marking through the paint where the low spots are.

If you have 2 spray guns, then it can be worth setting one up with your primer, and the other with some thinned out black acrylic, as a half litre tin is likely to be cheaper than a can of spry acrylic.

[willwal98]

we'll if you are using it right it should all be rubbed off anyway. And the stuff is almost dry by the time it gets to your primer so it should soak into the pores.

I guess to be 100% safe it would be better to use something else but who can resist the price

[pac]

just hurry up and get the paint on

[JZA70R_92]

do not use enamel as a guide coat I did this and it was a pain in the ass to sand!!

Also guys I have a car which was painted in enamel ive tried my paint stripper and it does bugger all??

["Z" UTE]

Also guys I have a car which was painted in enamel ive tried my paint stripper and it does bugger all??

You will have to "score" the paint. That is put some deep scratches into the paint, so that the stripper can penetrate, otherwise as you have discovered the stripper just sits on top and does nought but take the gloss off.

cheers Chuck.

[JZA70R_92]

Shite im gonna have fun whole car is in enamel not happy JAN

[celicapain]

painting cars is ghey. just thought id pop that in there in case anyone got the mistaken impression its fun.

["Z" UTE]

Shite im gonna have fun whole car is in enamel not happy JAN

Does the car need to go to bare metal? Is the paint that shot? Maybe if you do not have crows feet and other major paint glitches, you might consider sealing the enamel after a good sand, and then primer on top of that. There are isolaters and sealers available.

FWIW a lot of cars, Toyota included, used an enamel finish, but the recommended repair was Acrylic. You could do a blended repair, or a full panel in Acrylic, looked the business for 12-18 months, then the colour difference would start to show. That was effecively the acrylic losing its gloss faster than the enamel.

cheers Chuck.

[JZA70R_92]

Hmm Is enamel really that bad...can gloss be obtianed via rubbing down and buffing? enamel has to come off as most if not all panels need to have dents removed and painted

["Z" UTE]

If you are removing dents, then yes the paint will have to come off in those areas. Spot prime the repaired areas, rub the entire panel down with 320, prime entire panel and 800 wet sand, then coat in whatever colour you want. You will find that a high quality primer will seal the enamel.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

we'll if you are using it right it should all be rubbed off anyway.

Not if you have deep low spots. These would be shown up by the guide coat, then re-coated with more primer/filler. You would not sand into the low spot to get rid of the guide coat as this would defeat the purpose of flat sanding everything else.

["Z" UTE]

Owen I would have to agree wholeheartedly.

WHY would you use a cheap ass product like enamel for a guide coat. If you are going to the extent of guide coating, you are obviously after the best possible surface to paint. Then you should certainly not be compromising the finish by using the WRONG guide coat paint. Paint manufacturers make complete "systems" for every type of paint they sell, this is to ensure the end user and client get the best possible result.

And nowhere have I seen a reputable paint manufacturer advocate the use of a "foreign/incompatable" guide coat.

I think I have said it before, but here goes, the absolute best guide coat for an acrylic paint job, is acrylic black tinter. It is simply a colour, and has no glossing agents or any other nasties. Your sandpaper will never end up with specks of hard paint when you use tinters as a guide coat.

cheers Chuck.