The Spray Painting Thread

["Z" UTE]

Z2TT, you will find the answers to the bit about the rusty "C" pillar in my previous post.

It is only necessary to apply rust converter to rusty areas, if you have exposed any metal just by sanding and there is no rust present, you can possibly get away with just using primer. I personally would use etch primer, but hey I have a 20 litre drum of it.

If you have chipped out paint with a hmm screwdriver, you should feather the edges of that paint by sanding or grinding, and filling with your preferred filler.

The low spots, question 5, should be filled, either with filler or a few coats of hifill, guide coat, wet sand with 800 on a block, clean up then paint.

Try to sand horizontally on the "C" pillar, and paint that way as well. When all painting is done and you are ready to colour sand, again do it on the horizontal. Any imperfections will look like they were caused by a car wash, and not a backyard paintjob.

cheers Chuck

[Z2TT]

Thanks, well here is my plan of action that I have chosen to work by. Let me know your thoughts.

1. Level the area out with sandpaper, sand down any rust and remove it with 400.

2. Sand area smooth and level with 400.

3. Apply rust treatment (Deoxidine or similar) to the rusted area of C Pillar to fix any residual rust and wash off as per instructions on product.

4. After rust has been treated, fill in gaps with primer and then sand with 400 to get the shape of the pillar nice. Use 800 to make it all smooth.

5. Apply one light coat of etch primer to area where metal is present that is going to receive paint.

6. Use highfill primer and spray across the area that needs to be leveled (area that contains low points), spraying horizontally

7. Sand down highfill primer with 800 to get it down level with the rest of the paint on the pillar

8. Basecoat 5 coats or so, spraying horizontally.

9. Sand basecoat if needed with 800.

10. Cleatcoat 4-5 coats.

11. Thinners on edge of clearcoat to blend to original work

12. After 5 days, sand clear with 1500 to remove any fish eyes and peaks.

13. Cutting Compound then polish.


Oh and here is the work I did on the rear 1/4 panel a few weeks ago, turned out good.

[pac]

Z2TT swap steps 4 and 5 and after sanding basecote you will have to reapply couple coats of basecote before clear and most important of all you need to tac rag before and between basecoats and pre clearcotes, this will be more important than normal if you are in a garage environment. tip is to hang a chain or something to earth the body and minimize dust.

[Z2TT]

Oh So etch primer first then use body filler to fill in gaps?

Wondering why? Thanks.

[pac]

your step 4 was primer if you meant filler then yes, but ideally etch bare metal before filler and also after rubbing filler apply etch

[da_foles]

What is good for a tac rag? Where to get one?

["Z" UTE]

What is good for a tac rag? Where to get one?

Any auto paint supply shop will have tac rags in stock. Sealed in a plastic bag, they have a sticky substance embedded in the pores of the cloth, this is what actually grabs the lint and crap left by your prepwash cloth.

cheers Chuck.

[da_foles]

Ok cheers another couple of questions. Where to buy the glue or tape used to put Toyota and gtfour badges back on the car after painted?

[da_foles]

What's good for sanding bog? I have some tiny as hail dints that we aremgoing to fill. Shouldmi use about 80 grit then 120 grit then 400 then 800 to gets it festered back in the existing paint that we are painting over? Another noon question. Just follow the tin of filler? 80 & 120 grit just seem so full on.

[DrNick]

Yeah the instructions on the tin do seem a bit excessive.

I sand bog with my Black and Decker 'mouse' sander. 200 grit is usually fine, but if its a big bit then 120 cuts right through it. You have to use primer filler after that though cuz it does leave some scratches. Use a speed file where you can to get the bog level before it sets fully.

[hamgatan]

Ok cheers another couple of questions. Where to buy the glue or tape used to put Toyota and gtfour badges back on the car after painted?

i also want to know this! i have all the JZX badges i need to put back on when i'm done too..

[Muziiz]

i also want to know this! i have all the JZX badges i need to put back on when i'm done too..

I have allways used 3m double sided tape. its pretty thin so it wont stick out and it is darn sticky so it wont come off easily.

Most paint suppliers will have it along with your supercheaps etc usually stock it also.

[Z2TT]

Before putting filler in, does the are need to be sanded to make groves to allow the filler to bite on, or will it work with or without sanding?

If sanding is required to allow the filler to stay on, what grit to use?

["Z" UTE]

Most areas that require filling have had some sort of repair work, which needeed grinding or fileing, so that is normally enough to provide a "key" for the filler.

If you are trying to fill the low spots you mentioned earlier, a scuff up with some 120-240, or if you want to get aggressive some 80 grit. If you wish to preserve the paint around the fill area, I would suggest you use 240. Also that is about the right grit if you have to apply more filler over your original bog work. The smaller grit numbers 320 and above will not scratch the surface enough to provide a good key. Remember that all bog has to be sanded, even if you have managed to get it on the job perfectly flat and smooth. The reason for this is, that in cureing the bog forms a skin on top, which will not accept any paint.

Check yor filler product information, some "bog" require bare metal, others will work on a painted surface, do not assume that all fillers are equal.

cheers Chuck.

[da_foles]

Here is the GT4 at present. Finish of sanding bog through the week and then prime. Give it another light rub back all over with 800 then spray it on saturday.

Attachment 10541

Attachment 10542

Attachment 10543

Attachment 10544