The Spray Painting Thread

[Oddyssey]

Awesome, thanks mate, I haven't actually seen an air one either, my old man said he had though so I thought I'd ask. I was leaning towards electric anyway and was looking at what would be a decent electric polisher to buy...Any suggestions on what to buy?

[camshere]

Awesome, thanks mate, I haven't actually seen an air one either, my old man said he had though so I thought I'd ask. I was leaning towards electric anyway and was looking at what would be a decent electric polisher to buy...Any suggestions on what to buy?

Honestly, i use an Ozito variable 7" sander/grinder from Bunnings Its not fancy but it was cheap! If you're serious about buffing you could get a Makita 7" - but the Ozito is fine for the once i year i use it - i had a gmc one before that but it used to overheat. I would personally save my money for good quality buffing pads and polishes, they make much more difference than the too thats spinning them. Just take your time with it and you should be fine - remember its better to have the speed down low and take longer than too high and burn through your paint!

[Oddyssey]

+rep dude, info aplenty

Cheers

[GT1978]

a wet floor also helps
love your workbench it looks good
ian

I've heard this is good to keep the dust down, but I've also heard it's bad as it can generate high humidity.
Can anyone confirm if they've had any problems painting with a wet floor?

Glen

[o_man_ra23]

I find a spray gun or brush to apply paint better than a wet floor

Depends on your heat... if you have a hot day, a wet floor will cause the humidity to rise significantly, conversely on a cooler day it will do sfa to your humidity.

[ian]

as stated before
most spray booths have a water trap
most blisters are caused by water vapour in the air lines , its important to drain your compressor regulary i generally blow thw dust out and soak the floor the night before this way the concrete is cooler when you put more warter on it the day that you are spraying, also the dust has settled , dont forget to wipe down you job with a tac cloth just prior to spraying , and an earth lead to your car stops static [that attracts dust]
ian

[hosking1991]

regarding my 2pac over acrylic theory i thought to my self no harm in trying and this is what i got would be heaps more shinyer if i put clear over it




gotta love that shine straight off the gun. so looks like the ra40 getting stripped again and painted in 2pac

[MWP]

May look ok now... but i wonder how itll look in a few years.
Itll probably crack & craze

[o_man_ra23]

Agreed with MWP, the acrylic base is not a solid one, and may shrink and expand in a way that cracks the harder outer layer. Just be wary of that.

[ian]

hi
it will react after a while
you can cover your acrylic with acrylic clear ,and you will have to cut it back
remember, that it was not all that long ago that there were show cars, with award winning paint jobs that were done in acrylic
also i would advise not to use that polishing buff thats in the background of the last photo lol
ian

[CrUZida]

Anyone know of any good sites explaining how to use and clean an electric buffer with a wool pad?
Red car = red pad.
Gotta try and get that off.

The (very vague) manual says to use a spur tool, or something. wtf is that?

[Aaron]

My (non Toyota) was painted by the previous owner and unfortunately while it looked great for about 3 years in the past 6 months the primer and other base costs shank under the top colour and clear coats. The entire roof and hatch are affected but to fix it means a complete strip and re-paint from bare metal. Anything you do (like mixing Acrylic and 2Pac) that increases the risk of this happening is a ticking time bomb that will either bite you or the person that ends up with the car in the nuts badly.

My own experience (having last painted a car 15 years ago) was with Acrylic and 2-Pack and the Acrylic was the best for using as a novice. The finish when using quality paints and proper coverage and care through its life will still go for a good 10+ years. 2-Pac looked nicer off the gun and was a tougher finish but was a lot harder to work with, required more work area prep and better technique. With the same car it may last longer than Acrylic but if you stuff up the process (from mixing to application) it's just as prone to early breakdown as acrylic is when it's badly done...

Prep and attention to detail are your friends and I once read:
"If you can't eat a kebab without it going everwhere then you shouldn't be painting a car".

Sort of sums it up really..

A.

[Casino Kid]

manual says to use a spur tool, or something. wtf is that?

thats wat you need mate, some people use a screw driver but it dodgy and stuffs ya pad up, red sucks balls cuz it tends to stay in the pad for a while, if that dosent get enough out, hav you tride cleanin with water and a mild soap

[CrUZida]

I'd personally just chuck it in the washing machine, but I'm not sure what damage that may cause. Or even soak it in water.
Haven't tried any water at all.

May have to purchase myself a spur tool.

[hosking1991]

if it lasts 2 years i will be happy i was told by a professional spray painter that because the acrylic has had a lot of time to harden/set (8 months) that it should last a fair while