i'd offer a hand Nev, but that's a bloody long drive to just "drop by to lend a hand"!!
I think you'll just have to find a good engine builder by asking around mate.
Well its been a while since i have been on here and it looks like i have missed heaps.
Now what i am after is someone with the time to assemble my 2.2l 18rg race motor.It has all the good bits,forgies,billet aluminium flywheel,heaps of head workgood sump etc.Everything has been done i.e. bearing tolerances set etc. So what i need is it honing and then assembled with the cam timing done as well.Would be happy to help where possible to save on cost and am in no real great hurry so weekends or after work would be fine.Any help would be greatly appreciated as the last guy who did it did an absolutely crap job.It only lasted 274kms before sheering all the bolts off on the flywheel and stuffing the crank.When we pulled it down the brand new bearings were already screwed and it was full of silastic.
![]()
I can be contacted on 0433103584 thanks Nev
i'd offer a hand Nev, but that's a bloody long drive to just "drop by to lend a hand"!!
I think you'll just have to find a good engine builder by asking around mate.
...... butt scratcher?!
Come on carl its not that far.Besides the weather is much better up here as are the beauties on the beachesOriginally Posted by The Witzl
That's Mr Karl (with a "K") to you![]()
I'll back Warringah Mall and the northern beaches of Sydney as having the greatest hot chick/sq metre any dayOriginally Posted by ta22gt
![]()
YelloRolla's KE20 1/4mi = 11.32 @ 119mph @ 22psi on slicks
12.44 @ 113 mph on 165 wide street tyres
210rwkw - not bad for a smelly 3TGTE running pump fuel.
pay for the flight and i will be there as soon as i can.
good deal really.
sam.
Turbo flutter. : Its like a burp and a hiccup at the same time.
Originally Posted by YelloRolla
I'll back that too! And god am I happy my dad just moved up to Palm Beach, near walking distance from Newport Arms.... i love the northern beaches!
Now back to tractor engines!!
...... butt scratcher?!
I have started to rip my 18rg apart for a rebuild.. I have a few questions that I would like to ask.. 1. I have posted some pictures of the head and cams.. I have noticed some cutouts that have been dont to the head and the side of the valves. (not sure who did them) Any one know why they have been done that?
2. I am not to sure on the timing of the cams or how to remove the timing chains?
Thanx in advance
Adam
interesting... i never did pay attention to oil drains in the 18RG head. perhaps
these cut outs are extra to that for better oil return?
Black Betty >HERE!<
(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination.
Those cut-outs are standard oil drain points. Toyota used a mechanical chisel to clean up their heads, hence the hack marks.
Removing timing chains starts with the top chain tensioner, then cam gears, the head, sump and timing case.
Once all of those bits are off, the timing chains should be easy to remove.
Cam timing is a relatively easy thing as long as you do a good SEARCH for the details, but worry about that when the engine is ready to go back in. Basically at TDC for No.1 the cam timing notches must be vertical. (Cam lobes point horizontally ayay from each other for cylinder no. 1). Gears are adjusted to suit that setting.
Have a good look through the search topics and you'll find a lot of the info you're looking for.
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
as steve said, those holes are standard on all the heads i have lying around.
On the 88270 head i have a rather large cutout where the front top timing chain slipper goes as well.
to assist with removing the gears, there is a position on the cam that allows you to either put a spanner on it or a pipe wrench.
Hold that taught as you undo the bolts on the front of the cam.
once you have the front bolts off, you can slide the gears off the cams (don't loose the little dowel).
after that it is all self explanatory as steve has mentioned.
here is a piccie i drew in a 2tg thread about what i mean, (as 2tg is very similar setup to 18rg in terms of timing chains and settings and slippers and what not, besides i based that picture on the 18rg head anyway.)
![]()
Last edited by barned01; 11-12-2006 at 04:54 PM.
Okay guys, over the next few weeks or so I'm going to have a go at getting the EFI running on my RG. I'm sure I'll be popping in with a few questions, but at the moment have just one.
The block breather pipe that sits between the oil filter/mech fuel pump... where does that go on the 18RGEU. Every diagram I have seen seems to not mention this. Obviously it's used on the RGU, and I have read some stuff in this thread about it not really being needed... Do I just block this up with an 18RC plate instead?
I have kept this block breather on my 18R-GE....
In the pic below, you can see the cam cover vent goes to the frontmost outlet on the EFI plenum - this actually goes to in front of the throttle butterfly.
You can also see around the middle of the plenum is another outlet with a hose that goes down behind the fuel rail - i have the block vent connected to that via a T-piece (this line is also used for the idle up valve).... this fitting is directly into the plenum, behind the throttle butterfly.
This system above is good on an NA car, as the crank vapours are continually circulating through the engine removing any blowby and keeping the crankcase under vacuum.
![]()
...... butt scratcher?!
Okay, well I've got everything setup on the engine fuel is at pressure, etc etc etc.. The engine is wanting to fire, but its not quite getting there... spluttering and coughing etc... Spark is nice and strong, and should be as the carbs were idling ok. We called it a night, but we're gonna check the timing tomorrow to make sure that is okay. Injector resistance is fine, the only other thing seems to be that the injectors could be blocked/leaking etc... The EFI gear has been sitting around for about 2.5 years so I guess that could be the case??. Will more than likely get them flow tested if timing isn't an issue....
Now my question is in regards to the reliefs on the head. My motor has an 88253 head, and I don't have reliefs cut in for the injectors. I'm wanting to know (and I'm sure I read on the old forums that it was possible) if the engine should still be able to run reasonably well without the reliefs cut in. I swear I'd read a few people hadn't bothered to cut these in and their EFI was fine, so I guess I'm just making sure that isn't my main problem....
Cheers
NVM my previous post... it was the timing.. we have 18RG + EFI Liftoff!
Bookmarks