For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[o_man_ra23]

the running rattle is too much tension (as you noticed). Probably wouldnt help if your tensioner slipper is worn to buggery.

Is it leaking any more??

Cheers, Owen

[The Witzl]

having used both a Toyota and a Ryco filter on the one engine with fresh oil changes, I can tell you without a doubt that the Ryco is a piece of p00 for oil pressure on startup, and even gives lower oil pressure at idle.

This is all with the same engine, the same oil, and the same oil pressure gauge. No changes were made except for the oil filter.

[RAd28]

the running rattle is too much tension (as you noticed). Probably wouldnt help if your tensioner slipper is worn to buggery.

Is it leaking any more??

Cheers, Owen

took it for a drive this morning, and after some heavy cornering on near red-line and it started to make one hell of a chain rattle once i straightened up, and eased back on the gas... luckily we were pulling into the shops at the time, so i just let it be while i went inside, then came out an hr or so later and it was good again... (obviously i turned it off when i went inside) i noticed too that when we pulled up the oil pressure was responding much quicker between idle, and light throttle (say 2-3000rpm), when i got back to the car, the pressure too much longer to move up or down... not too sure what's wrong, but i'm kinda banking on the chains/guides being totally fubar...


witzl - sounds like reason enough for me to go and buy the toyota genuine one... thanks for that

[The Witzl]

Rad28,
take your cam cover off and have a look down the timing chain area beneath the cam gears with a torch... see if you can see any nice deep groves or cracking/worn chain guide surfaces.

I would put a bet on your rattle being either:
- chain tensioner no.2 being a little sus (spring?)
- chain guides are thrashed
- oil squirter for the timing chain is out of alignment (it should have the slot perfectly horizontal.

You can check the oil squirter by removing the cover plate on the front of the head with the 18R-G sticker on it. Make sure you seal up that cover plate good, and dont overtension those bolts either - they snap

[RAd28]

alrighty, will do in the morning, get back to you all, let you know how i go...

[o_man_ra23]

18Rs dont like right handers unless you have sump baffling. DO NOT run hard right handers in an 18R without first doing something with the sump (even run extra oil), this includes roundabouts. That would have made it rattle like a bugger when you got to the shops alright.

Cheers, Owen

[RAd28]

hmmmm fair point... any illustrations on particular baffle idea? first thing that pops to mind would be like an "in sump" surge tank kinda thing... put the pickup in a deeper pool of oil...

[o_man_ra23]

Sump wings work well. I have heard ideas using trapdoors (allow oil into a surge tank type item, while not allowing it out)

Cheers, Owen

[RAd28]

another query i had was reguarding the PCV setup on the 18RG, the guy who i got my engine off has changed it so there's rubber hoses coming from the center of each manifold pair (1-2, 3-4) which join up and run around to a thing-a-ma-bob under the extractors, but the hoses are giving me the $#!+s 'cause they foul on the choke cable, danas car has a nice neat metal pipe between the 2 outlets, which then has a rubber hose running from that down under the manifold to somewhere... any pics, or better still, parts available for this setup???

[river]

Hi,

Is it in one of the illustrations in the following thread....

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...hlight=mammoth

Be warned, that thread has 108 diagrams. But, if you're into 18R-Gs and want to know what parts are what and what thye look like, and where they go, then this is the thread.

seeyuzz
river

[Sagluren]

my 18rc has sump baffles, had to cut someout to fit the oul pump, so there must be some smoeware with original baffles.


sam.

[o_man_ra23]

They have some baffling, and a windage tray... but not a decent baffle setup though.

Cheers, Owen

[floppy]

hey guys,

I can testify to the 18r(g) not liking right hand corners at high revs

Willowbank is basically a bunch of right handers.

My inexperienced driving and ear(listening to the screams of my engine) only took 3 laps to kill it

My cousin is going to help me weld in some better baffling and make a nice windage tray.

I may even temp him into making a few of them if his time permits. I have a few spare 18r sumps now *thanks steven*

Dave

[tricky]

This is also high on my things to do list for the impending rebuild. Post pictures when you have finished one, as I'm sure many of us want a geeza at the finished result.

[RAd28]

Floppy, yeah i second that, i'm hoping to hit the track in mine before too long, would be great to get something like that...


alrighty people, have another querie relating to my carbies... the ol' gal is running alright (not perfect, just alright) on idle, but as soon as you touch the throttle she starts to get up set and starts stuttering, until you can get it a few hundred revs over idle then it's good again. i though this might be a problem with progression ports, so i cleaned them and it made little or no difference, also checked that the accel pump was working, and it's all good on all 4 cyclinders... could this problem be something to do with ignition timing? i know the dizzy is just about headed for the bin 'cause it's cactus. any suggestions would be great... BTW, carbies are Weber 45DCOE.

can anyone confirm the Bosch Part number for the Points? does GB534 sound Familiar? are the points the same as the ones in the 18RC? or anything else i can use as reference?

cheers