For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[lilcrash]

My 18rg gets roughly 8l per hundred km doing highway/city driving

[Blinga_22rte]

Really?! I thought it would be better than a 22r. But not by that much. That's pretty damn good.

[lilcrash]

Don't underestimate it's drinking thoigh. I can get as high as 30 litres per 100km. Lol

[Blinga_22rte]

Haha. Is that with a heavy foot?

[lilcrash]

That's when I want to go fast.

[73GTV]

A question that came to me while reviewing the old post from this thread makes me believe that only a few detailed instruction manuals in English or Japanese for the engine specific (Other than the 2TG and 18RG green book) models were not available in print in English, like they were in Japan. (Speaking about the 3TG Only)

The information for the 3TG engine I'm still hunting for, but the examples below were in Japanese Only. If anyone else has a lead on the 3TG manual in English, please let me know. The White Book is the only one with the 3TG info on some of the engine information that is of any importance with wiring info and connections. and has more information than in the Blue 3TG manual.

[andrewzuku]

It's a long-shot, but if you're desperate you could scan that pages in high-res (300dpi or higher), and use Japanese OCR software to get the info in a form you could then translate with Google-Translate.

(I've been that desperate before)

[73GTV]

Somewhere in my stuff there is a listing of which repair manuals were in print and in which language it was in print, I just have to remember were that list actual is.

I thought I would ask that question since I know that GroupB didn't have it and this was the only place I would be able to get an answer on if it had been printed in English, or not.
Thanks for that suggestion, I believe I will just purchase a great Japanese OCR or translation program and take the time required to finally get my answers that has bothered me for the last 35 years. Be safe and again thanks.

[RT104GT]

The Early 18R-G, number 88210 and 88230

These were the most powerful of the 18R-G engines, with a boasted 140hp from the factory and running a pair of Mikuni Solex DCOE carburettors.
Compression was a high 9.7:1, there was no pollution/emission control gear, and the cam profiles are the most aggressive of all the 18R-G engines.
The heads are commonly considered the worst of all the 18R-G heads - rumoured to have smaller valves, and definitely having smaller ports, their overall design is improved upon as the engine went through its phases.

Other than River Im probably the only guy that had one of these engines from near new.
And unlike River Im possibly the only guy that gave it a hard time.
It was drive around Australia twice in trials and I can remember the following issues.

1977 Broken rings
1978 Blown head gasket
1979 head removed and holes in block re tapped to 14MM from 12MM as the fine thread 122MM stripped out at the torque setting srequired for 9.7:1
Cam gears in 88210 unadjustable same type as in 18RB single cam and 8RG
1980 replaced engine with import from API springvale changed sump (celica) and oil pump.
That engine still going at 242000km
The old engine ahs been sitting on a stand in Stawell at Toyota for decades and I bought it all back for $400 a few years back off Wes Nalder.
I rebuilt the P51 and now have two
I have a spare 88210 head ex Cox Toyota
I still have three of the five shim head gaskets I bought in New Caledonia in 1979 where there were Celica GTs running around.

I am buying a 2 door GT from Fukuoka and will fix it up in due course after I leave Miyazaki later this year.
It has a 210 head

[lilcrash]

Ok found my noise. Too tensioner loose. I thought I set it to .5mm play when not running but when running it's loose, am I supposed to tension while running?

[Blinga_22rte]

So I got a tractor for the Stout. You guys twisted my arm. Haha









88253 Head with standard cam
Came with Dellorto DHLA 40's and manifold
Spare webber 45mm ported manifold.
Pace maker extractors

There will be a few things I need to get for it.

Throw out lever, slave cylinder and shifter for the box.

Has a Falcon alternator, is there a bracket assembly for that I do I need to fabricate one?

Also a kit to convert the points distributor to electric. I'm lead to believe the instructions are on here somewhere?

I've been looking at camtech site for a re-grind, I'm after a profile that would suit it, since the Stout is a truck, it will have to behave like one. (Torque Low/Mid range power). Any suggested cam profiles?

I don't want to loose that Lumpy idle!

http://www.camtechcams.com.au/toy_4cyl_2tg3tg18rg.html

[73GTV]

Nice score, very nice!

[Javal]

Hi guys.

Bit of an amatuer hour question.

My 18RGEU Corona is very nearly finished, it's only awaiting some trim bits and a few final tweaks before roadworthy. I'd driven it around before on a trade plate and was kind of underwhelmed by the performance, but after spending a little bit of time setting the ignition timing and vac advance up properly it's really warmed up a bit. I put about 150km on it driving around between workshops on a permit on the weekend, the 18RGEU has bags of torque and really dispatches with the gears quite quickly as well as being surprisingly good on fuel. It seems to run out of puff about 6300rpm and my fan belt is slipping from about 5500rpm onwards - at least that's an easy fix.

Now, obviously there's no point keeping my boot stuck in if the power is tapering off past 6300, but I've also got a set of 88210 cams to fit once it's rego'd and has a few more km's under its' belt. I don't know how they're going to behave, but what I want to know is what kind of safe RPM ceiling do I have?

I haven't taken it past about 6.5 so far because it's not making power so there's no point, the fan belt is slipping and i'm scared of valves kissing pistons, which apparently these things will do in the blink of an eye if you rev them too high. The sound sure is amazing though.

[JustenGT8]

Pffft, I used to rev mine to 8000 rpm on a daily basis, both the n/a screamer and the turbo.....both had fair sized cams though, light flywheels, one with stock pistons and the turbo with forgies. Rods and crank are virtually unbreakable....as an oversqaure engine these things do actually like to rev

[73GTV]

Sounds like a really good tuneup is in your future. Compression test of the engine and a good read of the Repair manual to see if your engine is within the limits. Is this a recent rebuild and if so have you given it time and enough use for the rings to seat? Which carbs do you have and what do you know about jet sizing for your application.

Performance requires being very stubborn and reach for perfection, and to never settle for almost right. Good Luck with this, because I know you will get it right.

aka: Solex carbs have a metering block at the bottom of the carburetor that will fill with crud. This will restrict your fuel flow and rob your performance.. Just a thought...