Guys. I need info on where to buy ECU plugs/pins for 18rgeu.
Toyota part numbers are.
- 13 pin, 90980-10132
- 9 pin, 90980-10152 that's 1 ECU
The other is 21 pin, 90980-10064.
Edit. checking AMP & Tyco
edit 2. found 9 pin plug.
I hope they aren't too inferior.... I have RT104GT / bincho's rebuilt one ready to go into my RA23....
Guys. I need info on where to buy ECU plugs/pins for 18rgeu.
Toyota part numbers are.
- 13 pin, 90980-10132
- 9 pin, 90980-10152 that's 1 ECU
The other is 21 pin, 90980-10064.
Edit. checking AMP & Tyco
edit 2. found 9 pin plug.
Last edited by Omegaman; 28-07-2013 at 10:14 AM.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Hey guys,
I need a new upper chain guide for my new RG. I was wondering what process is involved with rebonding one? As much as I'd like to just pay Dave at Sleeka Spares the $240 for one of his, I don't have quite that much cash disposable at the moment. Hoping to find somewhere local to do it.
Old School Fan
I'm not sure about down there but up here I paid $90 to get one re coated, I haven't started the motor yet, a few people had issues with them peeling off though.
Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.
RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm
Thanks lilcrash. What sort of place did you take it to? I'm not 100% sure on where to go
Old School Fan
I went to a company that makes slippers and liners. ThEy coated it with a rubberised nylon by the look of it, looked similar to the original.
Looking for a new toy. If you have something 18r powered let me know.
RIP, where ever you are :- 1974 celica, 3tgte and 186.5hp at 6500rpm
ddWell. I finally extended my wiring harness and fixed suspect connections.
when I connected the harness today and re tried it.
SAME ISSUE occurred.
stalling as per above video.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out what went wrong originally.
I ran the pumps off direct battery power and it still cut out.
Time to re think the issue.
I also sort of stuff up the harness extension. lol
I missed the E1 wire that goes across both plugs from E2, E1+E1 and joins to the Temp sensor.
I know it sounds like that is the problem, but it did the above before I touched the harness. also i made the correct connection, once i relized it..lol
Anyone wanna go through the harness a fix what I stuffed and double check it?
im done for the day.
edit. i need to go through and recheck....temp sensor, O2 sensor, tps, afm, pumps, ign wiring. anything else while im at it?
Last edited by Omegaman; 29-07-2013 at 12:17 PM.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
back to a dizzy question.
When replacing the weights on the dizzy, with a 11 and 13.5 gram weight.
Does it matter which one is 1st and 2nd. ie. leading weight on rotation?
what affect can you expect if any if its the wrong way around. Does it affect the advance dramatically???
Assuming the shaft rotates clockwise, which i think it does, should the 1st throw out weight be 13.5 or 11?
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
gents,
Im now looking into stand alone ECUs for my 18rgeu.
these are available on Ebay ATM.
1. which would suit a basic elect dizzy application with room to build on? no turbo application.
2. which is easiest to maintain and tune by self (once i learn).
3. which by looking at it, needs less dollars to set up and get running to the best a std 18rgue can go.? well slightly warm geu.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/171099383...84.m1436.l2649 megasquirt
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261262424...84.m1436.l2649 Motec
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111141015...84.m1436.l2649 microtech
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281149831...84.m1436.l2649 haltec
i need more time to read up on each of them, but they finish in 2-3 days, thus yr help would be great.
im thinking megasquirt or the microtech, as they seem more complete.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Haltech would be my pick but just check with them 1st whether they still support these early models as they have dropped support for some.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
I think you will need to tune the haltech with the old dos software. Not user friendly or feature packed at all.
They will all be able to be made to run your engine... a lot of people think you need the latest to run an engine, but surprisingly, being able to run an engine was one of the first requirements of an aftermarket ecu
Where you will see a difference is:
-features that have been introduced to ecus in the last 10 years, like auto tune, anti lag, boost control, vvt control, closed loop feedback, decel fuel cut, etc
-improvements in hardware , speeds, kemory leading to more tuning points, more calibration resolution, faster sampling times etc
-more capable pc software to tune graphically, display sensor values/logs, easy menu navigation and organisation, with windows support so you dont have to run emulators/serial convertors etc
-diagnostic support and datlogging
-online support/manuals/forums/etc
IMO, the winner, by far, on all of those is megasquirt. You also get a system that is completely scalable and adaptable.
But the issue with megasquirt (and why it doesnt suit everyone) is that YOU need to install it, program it, understand it, and even tune it to a certain extent, because if/when things arent going to plan (as is always the case with any aftermarket ecu setup), you will have to fix it. You'll syruggle to find any shop that will take the time to troubleshoot the insides of an ECU, or even help with the installation of something 'home made'.
I feel that the Megarsquirt is the budget choice of these old girls. I'm aware that each one will have its drawbacks, but i want one where people such as yourselves can understand to a larger scale, than one or two workshops that charge just to walk in. Jabba has given me a great rundown of opt extras availability and prices, which helps the cause.
The microtech seems to have all the harness and sensors and plugs. Though i could just attach my harness and plugs onto either unit.
The tuning partwill always be a trial and error or be assisted with someone who has similar.
These 2 seem to be the best budget setup available for me so far. i might give one a go and bid.
see what happens and build from there.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
I've got a EMS dual sport with hand controller and full harness or a EMS stinger with hand controller and short harness if you your interested in a cheap computer.
The dual sport was running on an 18rgte and the stinger I haven't personally used.
Let me know if your interested.
Alex
Hmm the EMS dual sounds good. I want something that can be setup easily or with some studying online to get tuned.
I'm not too keen on sending it to a tuner for dyno tune until all fitted and setup to the best i can do.
PM me details, as there is so many on EBay ATM.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281149831...84.m1436.l2649
Also this haltec sounds ok.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
..........
Last edited by jabbatron; 27-08-2015 at 02:28 AM.
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