For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[leso]

allmost 100% certain 6kg's would cover it mate...just sent a set to sydney parcel post cost $14.50.

[Steve M]

2565 grams for 1x 88231 cam with three bolts but no cam gear.

[EldarO]

Did you end up selling it then?

not exactly...

ive pulled everything apart (dont want to sell something not knowing what condition its in)

but got as far as stripping everything off the head, and the head unbolted from the block (timing chain still holding it on)

motivation is at an all time low, but the reco'd head was a pleasant suprise.

once i get the head off fully, i can flip the motor over and start pulling the bottom end apart, dunno if my luck will run out there, but hopefully it'll be in ok shape considering the condition of the head.

all the EFI gear is sitting here ready to go... (except for ECU)

ive got manifold, throttle body, thermostat housing, sensors (so far just the ones in the thermostat housing and the oil pressure sender, anything else im missing?) injector rail, injectors, loom... and the intake runners.

hopefully im not missing anything

[hosking1991]

rad,

my 230 cams weigh 2.8 kilos each so 5.6 kilos for the pair (just weighed them )

[RAd28]

thanks and +rep to hosking, leso and steve M for that help...

[EldarO]

i can weigh and measure shit while my motors apart if anyone needs confirmation.

weights and lengths/etc(valves) i can do.

now to get this fucken crank pulley off somehow :S

[o_man_ra23]

Elmo, if the crank is already out, spray a heap of WD40 on it, let it soak in, dry it, heat the pulley with a heat gun/propane torch (unless the pulley has a rubber harmonic balancer ring on it), then gently tap it off with a rubber mallet, or use a 2/3 jaw puller (if you have one)

[Steve M]

I'd be looking at a harmonic balancer puller, personally, although three jaw pullers also work. If you buy a cheap harminic balancer puller you'll have to get some metric bolts or do some creative thinking, but other than that they work fine.

[EldarO]

bottom ends still intact, sumps still on there

but if it'll be easier, i might take if off when the crank comes out.

failing that, i was thinking of (sounds a bit dodgy, thats why i was only thinking it)

bolting the head back down (not too tight) jamming a yard of nylon rope into the first cylinder, and using that to lock the crank in place...

id have to get it on the compression stroke though :S

[o_man_ra23]

Eh?? If you cant undo the bolt, put a screwdriver into the flywheel/flex plate ring gear through the starter motor hole and use that to lock the motor in place. Then a breaker bar and 19mm socket will take the bolt off. If the bolt is already off, locking the motor up wont help at all.

[Steve M]

oh, ok, I didn't pick that one either.

We accidently found a very effective and fast way of removing that bolt.
Leave a cheap socket wrench on the crank rotation bolt and just try to start the engine.
You'd have to connect up a gearbox and starter motor for that.
I'm not suggesting it, just saying that when you leave the spanner on there, it will remove that bolt.
Cheap socket wrench's don't shatter any faster than using that method either.

[airfireman1]

You really need to impact the bolt to crack the resistance to undoing. I have never had a great deal of problems removing this I used a socket and a T bar. 1 large hammer and a good hit in the anticlockwise direction should do it. This was with the head off as well. You could also make a wedge out of some wood and insert that in the timming cover and lock the chain and sprocket up if you cant stop the crankshaft from turning.
Cheers

[GA61XX]

I'd be looking at a harmonic balancer puller, personally, although three jaw pullers also work. If you buy a cheap harminic balancer puller you'll have to get some metric bolts or do some creative thinking, but other than that they work fine.

I was to cheep & made my own..




40 x 10mm x 120mm plate, 16mm bolt & nut, a few 9mm holes & a 16mm tapped hole weld nut to plate...
the two bolts used for holding, are 8mm x 1.25mm standard thread... for most toyota balancers & steering wheels..

[o_man_ra23]

Meh, 19mm socket, good quality. Breaker bar, good quality. 1.5m+ long bit of fence post tubing. Add them together and you have some short lived sticktion.

[EldarO]

im sure there are plenty of ways, i havent had a chance to look at any as yet though.

how do i take this gosh darn timing chain off though?!?!?!?! ive taken a tensioner off the inlet side, is there another one i should be concerned with?!