4AGE wont start. No idea what to try next.

[Granto]

heh i've put the plugs in the right order, 100%

i had a look inside the dizzy cap, and it was buggered. by buggered i mean it had been scraped away at where the little metal bits were, scraped away into the red plastic.

also going by part numbers, it was probably the original dizzy cap.. the OG!!!

so i got a new one as said

and yeh, i'm tired as, so i'll try it tomorrow, this'll prolly fix it! woot.

[Andrew162]

yay Grant, sounds like mine ... simplistic diagnosis FTW!

[Granto]

well i threw the new cap / rotor b utton on quickly however unless it's out by a cam tooth thingo or the timing is way out, the problem is still there, still wont run, doh.

*throws things at car*

[Andrew162]

did you reconnect the leads up in the right order?

[Granto]

yup.

still the same as before

cranks, sounds like it's just about to start, but nothing nope, doh.

grant ftl!

[takai]

On stuff like this (and my 4AG at first) its best to go back to basics and just check everything over systematically.

When we did my 4AG we used the smallport dizzy, but i had an issue which might be relevant. When the monkeys at the workshop who were tuning it did the tuning they wired up the dizzy 180* out, even though it was in perfectly. Now the smallport dizzy is a 20/1 trigger, but the bigport is a 4 toothed trigger instead. What you may want to check is when you rotate the dizzy by hand that the triggers actually activate properly. I have seen dizzys kill the internal wiring before.
Also, with the spiking this could be many different parts of the circuit, and certainly when i was rewiring up my dizzy (after the monkeys screwed it) it was jumping around erratically when the ECU was thinking it was a 42T instead of a 20T (sampling rates), and also when the home trigger was wired into the magnetic amplifier instead.

Also, im not sure how you have the ECU setup, but my Haltech runs sequential injection, and that way i can rotate the dizzy and use a signal probe on the injectors to see whether they are firing in sequence (i once wired my car in sequential order through the ignitor, due to an easily misinterpretable ignitor wiring diagram, so it was firing 1, 2, 3,4)

Just a few more things to check.

EDIT: also check that the injectors are actually firing. Easiest way to do that is simply to see if fuel is sitting in the quads after you turn the dizzy by hand. Ive had 3 out of 4 "cleaned" injectors stuck closed before, took us a while to figure out. If you have any aerostart you can try spraying that down the quads, and if it kicks over then its probably getting no or very little fuel. Also check fuel pressure on the rail.

[Granto]

When we did my 4AG we used the smallport dizzy, but i had an issue which might be relevant. When the monkeys at the workshop who were tuning it did the tuning they wired up the dizzy 180* out, even though it was in perfectly. Now the smallport dizzy is a 20/1 trigger, but the bigport is a 4 toothed trigger instead.

The dizzy was on the car and running fine with the standard ecu, swapped in the new one, and it started, now it wont. It's set to 24tooth.

What you may want to check is when you rotate the dizzy by hand that the triggers actually activate properly.

How do I check this?

I have seen dizzys kill the internal wiring before.

Dizzy is well within factory specifications.

Also, with the spiking this could be many different parts of the circuit, and certainly when i was rewiring up my dizzy (after the monkeys screwed it) it was jumping around erratically when the ECU was thinking it was a 42T instead of a 20T (sampling rates), and also when the home trigger was wired into the magnetic amplifier instead.

Well I haven't touched any internal wiring in the dizzy. It's just NE to Trig G+ to Sync and G- to -Ve.

Also, im not sure how you have the ECU setup, but my Haltech runs sequential injection, and that way i can rotate the dizzy and use a signal probe on the injectors to see whether they are firing in sequence

The EMS runs it 1 and 3 are wired up on primary, 2 and 4 are wired up on secondary. I accidently hooked it upto 12 and 34 when I first did it, and then, after about a day I realised. I fixed that, and it ran. (This is over a month ago now.....! hasn't run since!)

http://toymods.net/forums/attachment...1&d=1178196553

(i once wired my car in sequential order through the ignitor, due to an easily misinterpretable ignitor wiring diagram, so it was firing 1, 2, 3,4)

The EMS having an internal ignitor makes it really easy. Pink wire to Coil -ve.

Just a few more things to check.

EDIT: also check that the injectors are actually firing. Easiest way to do that is simply to see if fuel is sitting in the quads after you turn the dizzy by hand. Ive had 3 out of 4 "cleaned" injectors stuck closed before, took us a while to figure out. If you have any aerostart you can try spraying that down the quads, and if it kicks over then its probably getting no or very little fuel. Also check fuel pressure on the rail.

The way I usually check for fuel is with a rolled up piece of clean white paper. Take out sparkplug, slide rolled up paper down sparkplug hole (or you could with squads open the quads n stick it up the engine heh) and turn the key. Can see if fuel is getting in.. I did that a little bit ago, and it was working. I guess it wouldn't hurt to check that again.

It really is getting close to time to bite the bullet and pay some guy $2000+ to get it running. heh.

(that's probably a high estimate! but who knows.)

Grant.

[takai]

Nah sif pay someone mate. Just to clarify is the dizzy a bigport or smallport?
Because in your original post you say bigport, but you are saying that its a 24tooth now. Because a bigport dizzy isnt a CAS in the strictest sense, it only has a single 4tooth wheel. In which case having it set to a 24tooth will make it have a complete hissy.

If it is a 24tooth smallport then check that you havnt wired it into the magnetic amplfier. This will cause it to be 180* out, and while it will run, it will be very erratic and nasty (did you ever see my car before i fixed that?)

[Granto]

hrm that's weird

then how could it have run on 24 teeth setting.. bizzare.

wait wait

maybe i had it wired wrong, and had it running off the sync sensor as the main argh i dont know.. now im super confused.

it's the bigport dizzy for sure, it's got 3 wires. NE, G+ and G- (which is the negative of both hooked into eachother)

I always thought the bigport dizzy had that 24 tooth wheel..

[Matt-AE86]

I just ticked Grant! maybe cause you havent modified your dizzy ?!!?! Im sure its still a standard bigport dizzy yes grant ? What are your thoughts on this Chris ?

[takai]

Smallport dizzy guts.

I cant find the bigport picture though.

[Cuzzo]

Bigport dizzy left Small Port dizzy right.


Bigport Dizzy


Smallport Dizzy

BTW im using a smallport dizzy as a CAS as they are wired the same.

Bigworm used a bigport dizzy in his celica but he had to modify it to work with his aftermaket ECU. Maybe hit him up or use a smallport dizzy.

[takai]

Interesting, the bigport dizzy i have at home doesnt have the 24T underneath the 4T.

[Granto]

yeah im using the bigport dizzy

it has the 24 under the 4

it just makes no sense how it can run once but not again.

i'm willing to try anything though.

the settings that it has run on are..

http://toymods.net/forums/attachment...1&d=1178239816

i know it's for a supercharger, but that's the MAP/settings that were on there, and crazily enough it had started!

Grant.

[Talasas]

So you are actually using 2.4 Ohm injectors? Because if you are using high impedance ones you'll be getting very different behaviour.

I think you need to set the engine to TDC Comp. and refit the dizzy and start again. This way you KNOW it isn't out by a tooth and it must start with this setup. You just give it a tiny bit of advance by eye (so that it's not set to 0°) and try to start it.