4AGE wont start. No idea what to try next.

[Granto]

not sure if this has been mentioned but, since your running on the TPS map, do you still have the vacuume line connected for the map sensor?

When I took mine to the dyno tune for TPS mode tuning, he unplugged the vac line, and commented how it would still interfere with the ECU's calculations if it was getting vac readings while in TPS mode, I believed it too, since I think I tried it once and it stuffed things up IIRC.

then again, I wouldn't be surprised if the newer Stingers were made to handle this properly.

I've tried both types of maps.

no difference.

[Granto]

hrm, well, i've tried a different coil and the spark is a orangey-blue.


still no progress really.

ah well.

might be time I take it to a mechanic or something.

Grant.

[BeRad]

never , youll get through it, rewire the ecu


have you checked the maps and settings on the ecu, i once had an ems stinger and pissed it off, kept losing ignitions maps and settings, had a battery taken off the car lately?, it could have lost its maps, although i was told it had flash memory.

[Granto]

Oops I posted a reply, or thought I did, but it's not here, so..

have you checked the maps and settings on the ecu, i once had an ems stinger and pissed it off, kept losing ignitions maps and settings, had a battery taken off the car lately?, it could have lost its maps, although i was told it had flash memory.

Yeah, with the V3, you must set language to English (Australian) or it may lose settings (or entire maps!!) they fixed this bug in v4 ECU.

It really has to be something simple I've mucked up.

Looking over the logs, I would think it might have something to do with the weird RPM signal I get from time to time.

the most frustrating bit is that I actually have had the engine running. I would feel better about it all if I hadn't ever had it running with this configuration.

Grant.

[Granto]

ok went to test spark, it seems really weak (even with a different coil! )

also

i got a noid light and hooked it up, the first flash is bright and "white" like a normal light lights up, then the next one isabout half that, then the next one is hard to see, and a lil yellow line in the light, hrm..

i don't think that's how it's meant to be! so something must be wrong.

i checked all earths (for the 100th time, and found, one was slightly loose (for engine) and tightened it up to the maxxxx extreme).

the weird thing is, it has a solid 10.50-11 volts during cranking, so hrm (at the injectors)

Grant.

[Adrian]

have you considered starting from the basics,

(thats were we always get cought out @ work, starting in the middle or @ the top becuse u think it cant possibly be the basics lol.)

Change your spark plugs, thats cheap and if it doesn't fix it, it wont hurt either. and as being said before, 22ms seems like a long time to be opened, could it be flooding perhaps??

[Granto]

ok well i've tested just about everything, i got up at 6 am woohoo so i can test for spark/injector light a lot easier (My neighbors REALLY love me now)

so while checking spark, PERHAPS it was the way I was testing it, but it seemed like 4th spark wasn't hitting every time it should be.

solution=replace dizzy cap/rotor button.

however, payday is a while off.=

but then it could've just been the way i was testing! but i doubt it, but hrm.

fairly old dizzy cap/rotor button, just seems weird that it'd shit itself right in the middle of a conversion..

unless, the EMS makes it run more spark which made it runout quicker our something.

[BeRad]

check the ms of spark the ecu is putting out.... should be around 3 to 3-5.

yer a weak coil will produce inconsistant sprak, but it should still start, tried the ignitor etc?

if the ignition settings are wrong on the ems you will burn out coils/ignitors also, constant charge or constant duty should be your options aka smart or dumb....if you have it wrong the coil should get really hot to the point of burning you, if this is happening you have it wrong and could have fuxored your coil.

[Granto]

check the ms of spark the ecu is putting out.... should be around 3 to 3-5.

yer a weak coil will produce inconsistant sprak, but it should still start, tried the ignitor etc?

if the ignition settings are wrong on the ems you will burn out coils/ignitors also, constant charge or constant duty should be your options aka smart or dumb....if you have it wrong the coil should get really hot to the point of burning you, if this is happening you have it wrong and could have fuxored your coil.

Spark is set in degrees not MS

a weak coil would produce inconsistant spark, sure, however, cyl1 2 and 3 all fire pew pew pew pew pew where as 4 fires like pew... yawn yawn pew yawn yawn yawn yawn yawn turn car off, pew..

the coil isnt getting hot, pretty sure the settings are right. the ignitor is internal in the ECU.. and im pretty sure that's working just fine.so new dizzy cap/rotor button ftw.

Grant.

[takai]

Try swapping around the leads between the cylinders. I.e. 3 to 4, that will tell you if its the lead or the cap.

[Granto]

yeah i already did that.
otherwise leads would be on the list

[BeRad]

degrees?, it should still let you adjust the power of the spark....

[Granto]

nope

just...

0 RPM / PSI reading = degree

[Andrew162]

dizzy cap + rotor button aren't that expensive... I got cap for $21 and button for $7 for a 3S... surely they aren't more expensive for a 4A?

[BeRad]

So ive been having dramas with my bros car bloody nightmare , thought it was the map sensor because thats what the ecu code says , then i thought it might be tps cause there on the same circuit, then i thought the ecu had shat its self, turnd out it was the speed sensor inside the dizzy, so i replaced that and all was good, so could it be this , but this brings me to my next question, i put the leads in the wrong order and wouldnt start obviously, does the 4a have markings, have you taken them off and put them on again in the wrong order?

The most basic things will do you over