tell me how to id a late model Gen3 crank and you can both buy 1. (if they are it)
Cause quite frankly if mine goes boom im buying a wrecker motor or 1JZizzle.
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if that is the case, the race is on to see who gets there first!![]()
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
tell me how to id a late model Gen3 crank and you can both buy 1. (if they are it)
Cause quite frankly if mine goes boom im buying a wrecker motor or 1JZizzle.
![]()
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I got a nice dead 1g in the rolla right now that will be coming out for a rebuild soon, might have to look into this stroking
KE38 - 2TG
MS65 - 1UZ
I'll be psuedo stroking mine as per the suggestions of Kyle.
TA-022: Well, I don't know how to identify the fully counterweighted gen3 crank, but I can tell you what the earlier one looks like, and that might help identify what you have...
Have you got the sump off?
sounds cool but in my opinion they made the b/e larger for a reason and the balance will be quite ballsed up so expect a big rebalance and a crank that is over counterweighted
ho much this affects the strength is quite debatable
anyone know what the capacity increase is???
a fool remains undescovered untill he speaks!
bout 80ml
how would taking 2mm off the big end create such an overbalance?
and cant it just be rebalanced?
and also, whats with a counterweighted crank, ive never seen one. so i find it hard to tell how they work, as i always thought they were relativaly counterweighted with the big lumps hanging off them...
pullin out all the technical terms here...
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
REad my answers for stroking and bearings sizes here guys:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19890
It has nothing to do with stroking it, nor for the sake of smaller bearings, its that the turbo engine rod bearings are not the same as anything else from any engine, and the stock and cheap replacement bearings avaiable will not handle the punishment of 400-500+hp. Howvere, king make toyota 4K rod bearings, which are in my op, the best bearings commonly and cheaply available, and these are a straight fit in a ZE rod. I think the NA engine may even use 4AGE bearings![]()
However, all cranks are interchangle, from block to block, a drop in fit, and all have the same deck height. I personally use the GZE blocks due to the arrangement for my oil return, however the turbo block is 100% as good. The NA block is weaker with less ribbing and no facility for oil drain back.
As the crank is 2mm smaller in a ZE, when you fit these rods to the counterweighted turbo crank, you have the option at the same time to offset grind it. Due to the nauture of doing so, you will need to take it down to .010" undersize, to fully clean up the crank when stroking it 2mm. Despite the fact you take 2mm of the journal, you only effectively get half that in stroke, it is decieving at first, I had to draw it on paper to figure out why you only get 1mm extra stroke, but I can assure you you do.
In saying that, and 80cc increase for free is nothing to sneeze atANd if you combine it with some good pistons at the same time, I have gone 2mm over, you end up in the 2.13-2.15litre range, or 7%.
6BOOST
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