Replacing head bolts with studs.

[PHOBIA]

As some of you may be aware, I have decided to replace my more than likely stressed head bolts with a set of ARP head studs that should arrive late this month to help seal my copper head gasket. I am having a problem with pressurising the cooling system when running over about 20-22psi through my 22R-E
Now, the question I have will probably start a heated debate about what to do and what not to do, which is fine, but anyone with a past experience actually doing the job would be great.
Anyway.......what I would love to know is due to time constraints I was thinking about removing the head bolts and replacing them with the head studs without disturbing the head :-read. removing the head. Do you think it can be done, if so than it is at least worth a try before I go ripping the head of so I have nothing to loose. What system if any do you think will have the best resalts. Remove all the head bolts in the reverse head torqueing order and replace the studs, remove one bolt at a time and replace with the stud (I wouldn’t think this would be good for the head) or de-torque all head bolts to about 45-50 ft.lbs and than remove one at a time replacing with a stud and torque back to 45-50 ft.lbs.
Any thoughts will help, good and bad experiences and even bets to see if I can pull it of will be fine.

[o_man_ra23]

Your idea of de-torquing and replacing one by one does sound good. The one concern i have is the tool you will be using to put the studs in place (im assuming by stud you mean stud, a shaft which is threaded on both ends... and then have a nut on top). Will this tool be able to put the studs in properly with the head on, as most stud sockets ive seen are pretty deep, and need to be so such that the thread is not torn. If you mean expensive aftermarket bolt when you say stud, then I would say that you shouldnt have a problem with this procedure, as head gaskets, copper or not, are best left undisturbed. One thing i strongly suggest is to drain your coolant to below head level before you begin, as you dont want coolant seeping into unwanted places, and possibly putting contaminants in your head gasket seal. Ill bet 1 rep point that you can do it if you mean expensive bolt when you say stud, and no bet if otherwise

Cheers, Owen

[PHOBIA]

Sounds good Owen, As for stud, I do mean stud a bolt that is threaded on either end. They haven’t arrived as of yet, but I am assuming they will be long enough to thread into the block through the head by locking two nuts together on the top of the stud. Sound simple enough in theory but im yet to do it in practice, so i'll have to wait to measure there length.

[o_man_ra23]

They should have thread sticking out the top, yes. But... the stud sockets I know of are about an inch and a half long, and need to go on pretty much all the way to stop you stuffing the thread. This would mean that the top of your thread would be partway through the tappet cover on a 22R. Another way i can think of is to de-torque them all... then remove them all completely, take off your rocker arm assembly, then put the studs on and tighten into the block, put the rocker arm assembly back on, then go about your normal torque up procedure. Again, remember the coolant. Ill bet 1 rep point at 2:1 if it works

Cheers, Owen

[BeRad]

maybe try threading half the nut onto the stud and another half onto a bolt and turn it down far enough into the block then torque them the usual way, therefore making a longer bolt/stud,, maybe im completely lost but arp studs have a alan key head in the top of the sutd allowing you to wind it down..

[PHOBIA]

Hmmm, that's a maybe on the rocker assembly, but one wrong bump and I’ve disturbed the head I think there will be enough thread to get two nuts tightened together at the top of the thread to give me something for normal socket to bit on to and thread the stud into the block. I'll take your 2:1 though and yeah, the engine will be dry.

[o_man_ra23]

Dont forget there is a bolt under your cam gear pulling the head down onto the timing cover, and 1 or 2 studs coming out of the block to locate the head down. You shouldnt have a problem with bumping.

Cheers, Owen

[PHOBIA]

maybe try threading half the nut onto the stud and another half onto a bolt and turn it down far enough into the block then torque them the usual way, therefore making a longer bolt/stud,, maybe im completely lost but arp studs have a alan key head in the top of the sutd allowing you to wind it down..

Shit mate, you might be onto something there. I think I have read that they take an Alan key. Hmmm, that will make it easier. I should have them in about a week or so to check that out. The postage system is so slow this time of year.

[BeRad]

if you bought arp i can put 10 rep points on that it has a allan key head hahahaahahahahahahha

[PHOBIA]

I bought ARP studs, so I hope you're right. I think you are and it would make sence.

[o_man_ra23]

If thats the case(and i hope it is for your sake) then you bought head bolts... which everybody seems to call head studs(dunno why, doesnt matter if its got an allan head or not, its still a damn bolt by definition)... In which case i would go your first plan of de-torquing and replacing one at a time. The allan sockets for your torque wrench can be purchased from any tool supplier or most auto stores. My brand of preference is Kinchrome cause of thier quality and price, but pretty much any of the good brands will do it... JBS, Sidchrome, Snap on(if your a millionare ) etc. Measure up what sized allan socket you need(if its not written on the packet) by placing a metric bolt head in and measureing with a spanner what size fits best(or use a set of vernier callipers across the small cross section of the hex.)

Cheers, Owen

[PHOBIA]

I've been on this for most of the day, searching and asking questions, but the following quote sums up the installation of the studs quite nicely.

"Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head, the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in a “relaxed” mode—never crank it in tightly using a jammed nut. If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torqueing, make sure studs and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."

Owen, they are definitely studs, threaded on both ends and from what I have found out the studs should be easy enough to install finger tight. I am also going to run with the de-torqueing all bolts and replacing them one at a time and than re-torqueing them in the correct sequence. It may work, it may not, but for what time it will take me and save me if it works, it's worth a try.

[Mr DOHC]

shouldnt really undo one at a time, especially since u will be replacing with studs, which will need to be torqued once, loosened, torqued twice, loosened, and torqued a 3rd time.
remember u dont need to tighten the studs into the block, they only need to be finger tight,

if u take out all the head studs and leave the 2 little ones at the front {and assuming u leave the cam/cam gear and chain together..AND u leave the whopping big turbo hanging off the side, there will be alot of stress on that bit off alloy under the head of those little bolts at the front, i'd hate to snap that off,

[Toobs]

Yep I'm with Mr DOHC on this one... remove the head and do it properly.
Doing them 1 by 1 will most likely result in having something broken and removing them all and then replacing will most likely cause the head to lift off the gasket anyway..

[Mr DOHC]

IF you had to replace just one bolt, or the front 4 like we had to do at work, then that'd be ok