ok - will have em in 10min...
more to the point what did it do when it stopped? sound like things breaking and oil smoke out the exhaust or just stopped like turning it off?Originally Posted by minxgirl
fuel pump might be the culprit you have to work your way back.
if its turning over fine,its the fuel pump, if it dosnt turn over and it has battery power you have problems!
more help, just PM me.
yep. that top pic the thing with the strap around it is your fuel pump
now for the big ask. its a bosch - grab the numbers off it
then we can figure out what pump it is and what pressure it does!
dudette, where is the washer? or you talking about the little guy on top around your throttle cable? i don't think that will be causing grief mate
Rightio I will get that number once b/f has stopped telling me it isnt running on all cylindersand he has finished saving the world - he has to move it for some reason - I think he intends to drive it....
kingmick: when I said shat itself I meant stopped running on 4 cylinders and would stall if I lifted my foot off the accelorator even when warm and had 0 power and was running rough as all fuck
OMG WTF he drove off in it.....MAN I fkn hate ppl messing with my shit, especially when I think I am right (as in DONT drive a car on 3 cylinders when you dont need to) jesus....![]()
like rod said above
don't drive it if you don't have to until its sorted
the excess fuel from the carbs will be washing the bores of oil! so no lube = bad.
yes get some numbers
pay attention to the last few numbers, don't wanna see something like 0580254044
what did it cost any idea?
ideally it should be a lift pump so low pressure.....
Hi,
<sigh>... you can't put brains in statues.Originally Posted by minxgirl
seeyuzz
river
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
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I dare say that the big washer there is to stop the accelerator cable falling through the hole (which is probably too big) in the bracket. Normally the older twin carb engines run a linkage setup so I would assume that someone has converted this at some stage.
That pump sure does look like a high pressure unit, more suited to EFI than a carb setup.
1987 AW11 MR2 Supercharger (4AGZE)
1974 TA22 Celica (2TG bored and stroked)
Thanks to James Cameron's Terminator films, we know that robots are stronger, faster, tougher and more Austrian than the rest of us.
well I cant for the life of me find any numbers on the pump...I stuck my camera in there from every angle and found nothing...
When the car came back he told me its not running ok and needs a complete rebuild because its not running on all cylinders.....reminds me of those forums where someone posts they have a virus and someone tells them to reformat immediatelynow its apparently because I did a wet test and he phoned his dad to confirm his theory about how awful it is to put a tsp of oil down each cylinder *exasperated sigh*
Did I mention how frustrating it is being a girl?
Just tell him to get back in the kitchen and cook you dinner
At a guess I would say that the part number is directly underneath one of those cable ties (at least that is where it is on one of the VL turbo pumps I have lying around here).
If you're keen you could always cut off the cable ties and have a look.
1987 AW11 MR2 Supercharger (4AGZE)
1974 TA22 Celica (2TG bored and stroked)
Thanks to James Cameron's Terminator films, we know that robots are stronger, faster, tougher and more Austrian than the rest of us.
*LMAO* Well I can tell you who I am not making dinner for tonightOriginally Posted by Starfire
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Theyre not cable ties - they are wrap things with bolts and stuff - I will get back under there when this weather goes away again (another storm) and try and undo them to see...its a pain the car is SOO low to the ground!!!
The oil will eventually get burnt out of the cylinders, dont worry. You were having dramas before you did the wet test anyway.
Ive been following this thread but still cant seem to figure out why on earth you have fuel going into your oil. (Probably because Ive never had this problem myself, and Ive always reconditioned any engine before it goes in my car).
I know this is obvious, but everyone has done it at some point... are all your plug and leads back in properly after you did the compression test? (Dont worry ive done some really dumb things whilst learning.... like the first time ever jacking up a car.... what a disaster!)
Anyway Im going to the shed to find my manual and sus out the 2T-G diagrams see what i can figure out.... In the meantime, be patient (i know its hard) and hide those keys from your boyfriend, no offence intented, but boyfriends dont always know everything, and i think you'll find people on here will have a lot more experience with these engines![]()
51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
LMFAO!!!Originally Posted by minxgirl
Theyre called hose clamps
Dont worry, generally when talking to car nuts, for parts you dont know the name of insert "thingemebob" or "whatchamacalledit" instead!! They usually suffice! (My two favourites
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51LII - 1972 TA22 Celica | Morpheous Metallic | 4AGE 20v Silvertop | Razorback ECU | W58
Toyota Car Club (Qld)
Im not worried about the wet test "imaginary repercussions"Originally Posted by sillycar chick
I dont do anything to my car unless Im confident its the right thing to do - I double checked procedure in several places online
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Plugs and leads in fine (well at least they were last time I touched them!) however they will need a serious clean again before next time I attempt a start (in no hurry to do that and wear the engine for no reason) Im going to get a gap checker thingy and dbl check the gaps too...
as for the boyfriend *LOL* we're not speaking to each other atm![]()
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