1UZ-FE Crank Pulley Holder?

[Orphan]

Hey guys,

I am trying to get a hold of a crank pulley holder for the 1UZ-FE. The only Toyota SST number I have been able to find is 09950-50013 which is a Toyota/Hino tool for the Landcruiser and they want $770 for it. The only aftermarket tool I have found stated to fit is the Schley 64300 but I am yet to find a retailer that will sell/ship it outside of the USA. It appears to be compatable with a wide range of 90's Toyota engines so I was hoping someone on here could point me in the right direction. The application list of the Schley tool: "Lexus 1990 and later: 3.0 L6, 3.0 V6, 3.3 V6, 4.0 V8, 4.3 V8, 4.7 V8. Toyota 1996 and later: 3.0 V6, 3.3 V6, 4.0 V6, 4.7 V8. also 4 cyl: 1983-1995 22RE, 1995-2004 2RZ & 1995-2004 3RZ".

I would prefer the tool and to do things right rather than jerry rigging it with various methods. Someone even suggesting cranking the car with the breaker bar against the chassis rail :/ Any suggestions on a tool that will work, is available and isn't $770?

Thanks.

[madmont]

Someone even suggesting cranking the car with the breaker bar against the chassis rail
Thanks.

That is how I do it and if I cannot do it that way I use something to stop the flex plate turning

[RA35GT]

mate, when i did my UZ, i made a crank pulley holder from a length of Square hollow section. (With notches cut out to fit into the spokes of the pulley) with a bit of angle welded to the side that reaches the ground.

Worked a treat. (i'll post up a pic when i get home)

[RA35GT]

Like this man.


How it fits

[sc400]

Like this man.


How it fits

i made mine like that but used some rhs for the handle just make sure that you measure the rhs for the crank on the diagonal to find the right size

[4th surf]

Good breacker bar 22mm socket. Flick starter and end of problem. The tool shown is only needed for Hondas

[Orphan]

Thanks for the replies guys.

In re: cranking the engine, to me it sounds like a bad idea - probably all in my head. Also how do you torque the bolt back up without being able to stop the crank rotating? If you then jam the fly wheel to do it back up there doesn't seem to be a reason to crank the engine in the first palce.

RA35GT, thanks. We do have some steel around the place and while I can't weld I know someone who is very good. It is looking like I will have to make my own tool at this point.

[allencr]

Starter to remove, Rope in combustion chamber to install, make sure valves are closed.

[4th surf]

I use a Farking expensive Snapon oil filter strap to install, loctite and torque wrench. Makes it a bitch to get off if you want to do so again but you don't really want it to come off "when it feels like it"

[dnegative]

Starter to remove, Rope in combustion chamber to install, make sure valves are closed.

That's fucking rough as it gets lol

Personally, I just grab bits of scrap steel and make something that fits inside the pulley so you can either hold it or brace it against the ground, rip the bolt up with a rattlegun and check with a torque wrench.

[manny]

Here's the OEM SST # 09213-70011 and only ~$85 from Amayama



And here is the one I had made locally
Has done many a JZ and UZ engine with ease.. even does the UZZ32's deep pulley with an extension