How'd you run your engine in??

[Just1n_mc]

So I've just fitted the silvertop 20v I rebuilt for my racecar and I'm wanting to know the best way of running it in. Everyone you talk to has a different opinion on how it should be done but I was hoping someone has had real life experience doing it rather than believing what you read online.

Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

[stealth]

Fill with a good Running in Oil, Penrites one is pretty cheap. These oils are non friction modified, so that means they'll help cam lobes, rings and bearings bed in. The most widely accepted method as far as I'm aware is starting off at low revs, do little pulls, gradually increasing your max rpms over 10-15 runs, to redline. Let the engine cool between runs, lower the rpms and load, the heat cycles will help the process. You'll feel the engine start to strengthen, gradually your power increases, this is the rings seating in = more compression. After the initial drive, drop the oil and replace with more running in oil. Use high rpms and high load for the first 500 or so kms and avoid any constant rpm. Dont put in synthetic oil untill at least 1000kms, if not more.

What ever you do dont let the engine idle or stay at a constant RPM for more than a short while.

Used this method for the Formula SAE race car I used to help build at uni. Had an engine dyno so it was obviously easier, but same principle applies.

[jwebb2876]

Running in oil, drive it for 500km, change to normal oil, drive for another 500km, oil change, done. Run in a couple of motors this way, never had a problem.

Edit: That said, they were both fairly old tech (Mitsu 4G64 and a Datsun L24E), dunno how well it'd work with more modern engines.

[senn]

run in oil (extremely thin) for 500-1000km of "normal" (read GENTLE, Lower than normal RPM's + throttle position) driving, then oil change to regular oil, and start winding the wick up. This is what my experienced engine builder suggested, and I've had no issues.

[lexsmaz]

As has been said vary the load & revs etc, but it also depends on what has been done in the rebuild process as to how much running in is required, like was it rebored & new piston & rings etc or just honed & new rings & if it was bored out etc, what are the clearances like & was it blue printed etc, the finer / tighter the tolerances the more you need to be carefull with it so it doesn't pick / seize up ..

Main thing that i'm aware of is avoid High RPM for the first 500 plus km's & has been said vary the rev's & load situation, but also dont lug it at low revs, just drive it fairly normallly, with varying the load ..

I remember reading some stuff on google a while ago about correct running in procedures, probably worth looking into it ?? ..

All the best ..

Rob ..

[sneaky pete]

Hi there, normally I just sit and read the posts. When it comes to lubes and engines - it was my working lifetime which has mostly since PASSED (now I am just enjoying my children and life in general). So in return for all the support from everyone on my own issues (my son races a 2T) here I go. Running in an engine is essentially allowing wear to take place under controlled conditions. So you need an engine oil to allow the engine to run in and then afterwards have fun. To get an engine to run in you need a low spec (low anti wear level) just for this short period. The additive levels are specified by a number of means but the easiest is the API spec. To run the motor in you need an API SF spec or lower (API SD or SE or SF WILL ALL WORK VERY WELL - I doubt that you will find anything alfabetically lower eg API SC - if you do buy it). When you are out shopping for running in lube you need a light viscosity SAE 20 is great SAE 30 ok but nothing heavier. So have to look for an SAE 20 (SAE at a push) with an API spec SC to SF. 500 km of very mild loads and drain and replace the filter. Now you gotta put in the good stuff and enjoy! give me a shout if you donna understand!!!!!.

[shrike]

Cheap as fuck mineral oil with cheap filter first start and drive around the block/first 20-30mins re torqued head etc
Drop oil and filter
then do the following taking it through the revs dont hit or keep it at redline pretty much drive it hard and give it lots of load I would also do a dry comp test before I even start the engine and then another dry test after the first 500-1000km to confirm if the rings have bed in comp should go up as they seal better

Remember to change filter with each change (oil brands that are good Penrite and bradpen both have running in oil)

running in oil 500km
change
running in oil 500km
change
10w40 1000km
change
10w40 1000km
change
10w40 1000km
change
10w40 1000km
Change
decent 5w40

Also any decent performance shop with a dyno should offer a run in service which is usefull for expensive engines

[Just1n_mc]

It was a pretty basic rebuild. All I needed to replace was bearings and rings. I didn't need to get the block bored (only honed) and the pistons also didn't need replacing.

I was reading this last night and it made sense to me but again can you believe everything you read??

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[allencr]

Believe the mototune stuff. Really, there's no secret/s in there is there other then the 'baby it style' is more detrimental then the opposite extreme of the 'drive it like a stolen rent-a-car style'.
PRIME IT!!!!!!!!! Light/thin oil & high idle to get good flow to cyl & rings & pistons.
Any RPM and/or acceleration you want, just not in the higher gears or for sustained time.
DO NOT lug/abuse/overheat!!!!!
Re-torque the head, check plugs & lash, change oil & filter at 500.
Good to go.
//////
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=878397

[5M_MX32]

I run engines in exactly how my engine builder/tuner tells me to.
I guess in your situation since you built the motor, I would probably ask a trusted engine builder who specialises in your engine type.

[thechuckster]

There's heaps of how-to-run-in threads on toymods, I'm just waiting for the horde to descend and start arguing about it...

[dnegative]

Warm up, make sure its all good then straight to full load

[Zammo]

Read, http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm , discuss

K GO

[Dan_k36]

Warm it up, check for leaks, bleed cooling system, put some tunes on go for a drive, dont let it sit at one rpm after 39 min start to give it what it wants, treat it like u are going to treat it from day one, so as a race car treat it like one

[andrew_mx83]

I dont even warm them up now. Run for 10 seconds to check for leaks then on throttle out the driveway and straight to the hills.

#1 rule is to drive the dog snot off it, personally I like to keep the revs down til I feel it loosen up a bit as I always build to tight clearances. But full load up hill in a high gear followed by overrun (engine braking) in a low gear to wipe the oil off the bores then repeat for 150-200km. Dont let it idle for the first couple of hundred k if possible and no synthetic oil for few thousand. Burson having decent running in oil for about $30/bottle.