1uz into v6 4runner.

[4th surf]

Good point but you need to double the budget for the initial engine purchase and then go thru what the DOT will allow you to do. Client of mine was recently told that if she could not afford to replace the radiator in her VTII SS to get rid of it. Call on Monday.. "It's died!" "Wot you still have that?".. She cooked it so the cost of repair to the LS1 is not economical. Many tears "Big Maori ladies while fun to party with are rather frightening when they get a tad upset".. Ok some tooing and frowing later and I managed to get them a 300kw HSV donk for 3K with loom and 'puter.. Hubby couldn't get his wallet out fast enough yet wouldn't get it out when I told them to get rid of the thing before it killed their bank A/C. Now why does my Surf have a 1U in it? I got it dead (one of the wifes only good ideas) and had intentions is fitting an injected Holden 5.0 so later mods could be had (Harrop crank, twin throttle body injection, cam, Dash 3 YT heads, goodbye 10k and hello 300kw). Well base engine package was $2200 for Holden(165kw) and the front half of a UZZ31 Soarer with 200KW was $1500. Well keeping it all toyota and $1500 won. After managing to burn some of her hair off down below on the first fire up her first comments after a ride in it were "it's too fast" and later after sorting a few problems "Will you leave that poor HSV alone? Can't you see that you are frightening it". "Yes and your point is?". Front diff lock in with UZ and 50mm suspension lift. Off road weapon and if you want to see one that is the epitomy of evil?? Speak to ozrunner. That thing is not only a work of art but will make you poo your pants. Old school injected Ford Windsor in the hole and it looks like Toyota made it like that

[4th surf]

thanks for info, does the vvti require key and barrel to run right or just ecu/harness etc.

does the crossmember conversion allow decent exhaust without a lift kit?

car already has a massive 4row h/duty old school type in it, temp never moves off 1/3 or so matter what.

if i went the adaptronic 420 type, can this run the whole system ?

looking at this vvti eng but looks abit rough round the edges 95ks fresh import.

I should've looked at the pic earlier. UZS151 Crown, Your thoughts George?

Need part no off ECU to confirm

[George]

I've only heard once that early uzs151's were immo-free. I couldn't yet get a poor uzzie brain for a series of inhuman tortures, so it's only a rumor so far. Personally I don't care much, it's impossible to have one here in time and for reasonable price, while halfcut solves all the problems and have additional goodies in it.

[dumbass]

best way would be get picture of the ecu plugs and look for wires for the immobiliser
anyway 90% of importers are dumb fks

[blurunner]

crown1uzcut-1.jpgcrowneng-1-1.jpgseems like the more i look the deeper it gets. half cut avail in vvti but engine looks real salty and has 189k,s on it. $3500 for cut.

options are. around $2000 for vvti eng & ecu, prob won,t run without key etc, so add say 3grand for aftermarket ecu & tune.

half cut for $3500 with everything i need. seems dear to start with but prob the best option.

can you get a piggy back for later factory type ecu for finer tuning? if so i,ll go that way.

main reason for vvti is from info found here and a very informative site in nz. i.e heads flow more than ported early one,s,
varialble lenght inlet runners, better clearance at front and rear on 4runners, no oil filter relocation, it,s a no brainer really.

thanks for all your input. i,ll get there eventually.

4runner has r150f and the 450hp capable diffs, so driveline up to the task. past dumping clutches, got a few grey hairs now.

[mullett]

VVTi is a better engine in every regard, especially if you can get it running with the stock ECU. I'd take an educated guess that even with the vvti locked it's a better motor than a standard 1UZ (look at mos' IS200 conversion for example: 200RWKW IIRC with an autronic and the vvti locked)

It could also potentially be a much bigger headache, where as the standard UZ is well known now.

Also: avoid microtech/EMS etc unless you really have to. They don't actually have most of the stuff that the adaptronic does (like closed loop/learning 02, closed loop idle, wastegate control (not that you need that....yet ) etc...



-RM

[blurunner]

thanks mullett, i didn,t realise vvti was so hard to set up. is it the same even with a complete cut? as pictured on above post.

closed loop would be preferred, used to have to trim idle & cruise settings on microtech for a 13bt as you were driving, not too hard but you have to take your eyes off the road a bit. and this was by feel and sound because of lack of accurate gauge for air/fuel mix.

does the higher spec adaptronic allow vvti to be used?

would like to have tunability for further mods as well. maybe nice cams and improved intake. (piggy back maybe)?

trying an importer in nz for low k cut, no reply yet. if cheap enough may get 2 and cover some frieght costs.
don,t think the spare one would be hard to sell here.
thanks again.

[dumbass]

look at link or vipec before adaptronic
talk to afew tuners in yr area and u will understand y

[TTV8RA23]

Rubbish VVTI 1uz are bugger all harder to setup. If your auto sparky has any brain then will not find it hard at all. A couple extra wires for VVTI solenoid and COP is basically only difference and shit loads of motors are COP these days so anyone worth there salt shouldnt have a problem. My little bro is and industrial electrician apprentice and he wired one of these up with LINK G4 Storm for his first ever automotive wiring job and it went first pop. VVTI1UZ is a miles better motor if you want to stay NA but dont go putting more than about 7psi boost into it on factory conrods, unlike earlier models. LINK ecus are a bloody good option. Any one with a bit of electrical nouse can wire one up. They come with very extensive instructions and easy to find info on. Just read the instruction book 5 times and anyone with a bit of experience can do it.

[George]

TTV8RA23, there's a photo by Lextreme somewhere on the web showing that vvti rods are just as thin as late (since ~'92) non-vvti ones

[dumbass]

the link software is pretty user friendly
ive played with adaptronic software and u needed a degree to work it out
nothing is in its usual position fking annoying unles su spend 3 years tunign cars every day heheheh

[TTV8RA23]

Sorry MR correction. You are dead right O wise one! I know this. Im referring to 89-91 rods. Much bigger. Also R150 box is plenty strong. Mate has an old hilux with 1uz running 35inch tires and gives it absolute death clutch kicks on the tarseal etc etc never had it cry foul.
Simon

[TTV8RA23]

Dumbass is dead right (funny that) thats why we have used them for so long. Good price. Very extensive instructions and very user friendly to setup and tune.

[George]

I mean there's a strong rumor that non-vvti 1UZ's are better suitable for forced induction, but in practice it's near to impossible to find pre-92 engine that's still alive (and will withstand additional stresses). So why rods should be an issue, it's easier to buy aftermarket ones and use fresh engine

[TTV8RA23]

Non VVTI1UZs are better for forced induction as long as its pre 92. Most of the ones I have seen here in NZ are pre 92 and in good nick. I have 4 in the shed at the moment. Only onsell the post 92 ones. A set of rings and bearings (if your worried about it been tired) in a standard motor is good for 16psi boost all day. Which unleashes huge ponys more than enough for 99% of people. Sure though VVTI with after market rods and pistons would be the ultimate.