Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[TTV8RA23]

Holy shit haha that makes no sense to me. Maybe i should send it away to someone who knows a bit more about it.
Cheers
Simon

[knightrous]

You won't learn anything if you just palm it off to someone else

[oldcorollas]

if you can open the case, take a photo of inside

[oldcorollas]

Holy shit haha that makes no sense to me. Maybe i should send it away to someone who knows a bit more about it.
Cheers
Simon

the link was for Callum to help figure it out too

ok, so because you are using basically a voltage logic input (hall effect), to isolate and protect the ECU (the actual MS2 chip), the tach input goes through an opto-isolater (sp?)..
this is basically an LED, that is powered by the hall effect, shining at a sensor which is powered by the ECU.. so the voltage you give the MS is independent of what the ECU sees, so you don't blow it up


so on the image below, JP1 is at the bottom right hand corner, and has three pins, 1, 2, 3.
check the jumper is on the left hand 2 pins, ie pins 2 and 3 (they are marked on the PCB)
this routes the input to the opto-isolator.

J1 is kinda in the middle, closer to the top, and has 6 pins in total (to the left of R14 and R17)
the jumper should be on pins 1 and 2, ie the top two pins
this routes the opto's output to the ECU.

i'd wait for someone else to confirm, as I don't have a 3.57 board... but take a pic and compare in the meantime

http://www.megamanual.com/357/V357_silk.gif

[oldcorollas]

and the first few paragraphs here detail the J1 and JP1 settings

http://www.megamanual.com/357/assemble.htm

The differences on the V3.57 board (compared to the V3 thru-hole main board) are:

Tach input selection jumper JP1 (near the copyright notice at the DB-37 end of the board) is now on a 3-position standard 0.100 inch header:
Placing a jumper across positions 1 and 2 enables the variable reluctance (VR) circuit.
Placing a jumper across positions 2 and 3 enables opto-isolator ("Hall") tach input.

Tach selection jumper J1 (near the center of the board, but a bit closer to the heat sink) is for routing the signal-conditioned tach signal to the processor. This is a 3x2 0.100 inch header. Only one jumper is used, the remaining positions are open.
A jumper on pins 1 - 2 enables the opto-isolator.
A jumper on pins 3 - 4 enables VR (variable reluctor) operation (non-inverted).
A jumper on pins 5 - 6 is for an inverted VR signal.

there is also another note.. to add a resistor for pullup for the hall effect, if required. not sure when it is required tho, but that should be detailed in the V3 board assembly instructions. (which say to leave it out .. it is probably a legacy of earlier ignition options, or to give other options, but not usually used)

There is a unpopulated pull-up resistor on the tach input line (R57 - near the copyright notice at the DB-37 end of the board)) that can be added to provide bias for Hall sensor and other input sources.

in addition, those two pots you mentioned, are used for the VR conditioning circuit, NOT the hall effect circuit

The two VR input circuit potentiometers (R52 and R56) have been replaced with a 5-turn surface-mount variant. So instead of 25 turns, only 5 turns are required - but they should still be fully counterclockwise to start tuning.

here, 3rd schematic down, shows the opto-isolator stuff, near the top. JP1 on left of diagram, J1 on rhs
http://www.megamanual.com/357/hardware.htm

image here http://www.megamanual.com/357/V357_schenmatics3.gif

edit: confusingly, the V3 stuff says that hall also uses the VR zero-crossing detector.. but not sure how as the hall only goes to zero.. will keep looking

[oldcorollas]

also check here abotu the hall effect, and how to test if the sensor itself is workign as it should
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pickups.htm

[WDE_BDY]

Just pulled mine apart to check. It is set for Hall Effect as even though the EDIS uses a VR sensor it outputs the same as a Hall setup.

As Stu says, JP1 should be between pin 2 and 3, J1 between pin 1 and 2.

Callum

[WDE_BDY]

Idle valve question for you all. Need to fit one to the 4K-E using an MS-II V3.57. Can run PWM or stepper motor, just want something easy to adapt and cheap and easy to get hold of. Have looked at BMW style ones that just run hoses as well as the DIY Autotune mounting block and Jeep valve, getting in NZ is the tricky bit though and it seems the mounting block only works with the specific Jeep valve rather than the more common GM type valves. How hard would it be just to grab a valve (Commodore or similar) of this style and get a mounting block machined up?

Callum

[thechuckster]

hayundai PWM-driven valve? A little on the largish side but should be common. Unfortunately if you stuff one down your trouser pockets before making your way out of the wrecking yard it looks kinda obvious (or you look super gay and have a side-looking chubby).

[Cuzzo]

Nah its not that obvious

[knightrous]

Loving my DIYPNP on the 4AGE 20V. Done over 1000km in the last few weeks without a hiccup, and it's not even tuned yet One of these days I'll get my stupid LC1 to work and tune it >.>

[WDE_BDY]

hayundai PWM-driven valve? A little on the largish side but should be common. Unfortunately if you stuff one down your trouser pockets before making your way out of the wrecking yard it looks kinda obvious (or you look super gay and have a side-looking chubby).

This is NZ not Oz, fortunately we lack in Hyundai bits in the wreckers.

Callum

[thechuckster]

Callum - the valve used by the Hyundai is a bosch knock-off - any chance you can scour wrecks for euro trash like audi? Chrysler Neons also use them and I suspect mazda DOHC (and korean copies) use a similar valve.

and I thought NZ was the centre of the universe for imported car randomness? I would have thought you'd be overwhelmed with Hyundai and other imported crapola?

In any case, do you frequent any wreckers that let you browse the wrecks? if so then I'd just wander along until you see something that looks vaguely like this:


or


and grab it.

Otherwise, XF falcon have a PWM valve but it would need to bolt onto the plenum, likewise I think the early buick V6 commodires have a PWM valve that also bolted onto the plenum near the throttle body.

[WDE_BDY]

Yeah last mission out of town I spotted a couple of decent Euro options, Hyundais though are lacking as most people buy cheap imports rather than cheap new stuff. Bugger all through my local wreckers at the moment but wil keep an eye out.

Callum

[WDE_BDY]

So re-pinning my EDIS module as part of my new loom and found a few discrepancies from the standard MS diagrams. Googled up a Mondeo wiring diagram as that is what my EDIS module is from and found pin 2 (which I don't need) is tach feed to ECU, pin 4 is ECU earth and pin 7 is missing. Popped the lid off the module and confirmed pin 4 and 7 linked anyway so not a big deal. My main question though is regarding EDIS pin 1 which goes to pin 24 on the ECU (PIP). I bought the DIYautotune premade harness and it has a shielded wire for pin 24 (white) and pin 1 (black) from the ECU with the shield wire coming from pin 2 at the ECU. I am presuming I connect the white (ECU pin 24) wire to EDIS pin 1, ignore the black wire (ECU pin 1) and conect the shield wire (ECU pin 2) to EDIS pin 4? Apparently all the earth pins in the ECU are already connected to each other anyway.
Also, from the Mondeo wiring diagram EDIS pins 5 & 6 to the VR sensor are not shielded. I presume it will be fine to replicate this? Or do I need to get shielded wiring?

Callum