Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[knightrous]

USB to Serial adapters are a bit hit and miss like chuckster says, there is one on the DIYAuto website though that they sell which has been tested thoroughly and works. This is pretty much the only reason I have kept an old 9 year old Toshiba laptop laying around just for my megasquirt projects, I know 100% it will connect without any adapters

[thechuckster]

simon, the stim kits are engine simulators for MSefi ECUs - they simulate all the engine inputs and ECU outputs. You can get them thru the usual megasquirt reseller folks like DiYAutotune in kit or built form.
simple stimulator:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...-kit-p-30.html
feature rich stim:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/j...mbl-p-174.html

I've also had issues with USB to serial adaptors and have ended up using an old Keyspan branded adaptor.. My desktop is a mac (a Dell converted to a Mac) so I needed an adaptor that was supported in the mac OS and also worked (as is) if I booted into Linux.

Keyspan is now owned by Tripp-Lite
http://www.tripplite.com/en/products...xtSeriesID=849

[oldcorollas]

i have a random brand one that i got in JP that works fine

call the whiz guy, he probably has a stim already. simple stims for MS1 are easy to make.. but trigger wheel emulation in a stim takes mroe effort = buy or borrow kit

MS needs power, but 9V is fine out of car.

[ballpencil]

Where can one buy an EDIS-4 module? No luck on Ebay.. Mostly they sell a complete kit. I need just the module. I think its fried since i connect a 12v pullup instead of 5v on the SAW input on the module. The timing is now locked at 10deg BTDC (limp home mode). Does anyone have an extra module they're willing to sell and ship to Indonesia?

[thechuckster]

There used to be a vendor on the msefi forums that sold this stuff (Boost engineering? but their URL says no longer in business).

Have you tried putting a wanted listing in the MSextra forums - the General, New users, Purchasing section on the msextra.com forums?
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=94

If no luck, I think I have a 4cyl EDI board somewhere (i know i have a 6 cyl module) - send me a PM and we can discuss further.

[ballpencil]

Has anyone successfully setup MS1 Extra as boost controller?
i'm sure my wiring is correct as when i set X4/JS2 (from pin 36 of the CPU) to Output1 and trigger it using TPS, i can get the solenoid to click.
however, when i set X4/JS2 to Boost Control and set it to Open Loop (Duty Cycle based), i couldn't get it to work. There was no voltage coming from X4/JS2 at all.
Googled and found a suggestion to set the Typical Ambient Pressure to slightly lower than actual. Well, my typical pressure is 94 kPa and i set it to 90 kPa. This doesn't work.

I'm using the schematics from here: MSnS-Extra Hardware Manual

***EDIT***
It's actually working.. My mistake in making the wrong setting. Thanks

[TTV8RA23]

Im fucken over this car of mine at the moment. Not making any progress. I have it all wired in and connecting to my lap top now but not getting any Cranking signal. Im not sure why as i have checked and triple checked the wiring etc. Im using and MS2357 and using a hall effect sensor from diyautotune. I was reading on mega squirt forums somewhere that i should be getting fluctuations in the volts as the trigger wheel notches pass the sensor. They say it should be varying between 0v and 5v but mine is only varying between about 2.5v and 0v when measured with a multimeter. Someone said that you can pull the ECU to bits and vary those volts using some pots but i dont know how. And not that keen to pull it to bits as im a noob. Anyone no anything about this? I may be misinterpreting this and the pots may vary the supply voltage to the CAS not signal volts. I checked the supply volts and it was 4.95 volts so this is right.

Has anyone else had any similar problems and can anyone offer any advice?
Cheers
Simon

[oldcorollas]

if the hall sensor is getting 5V in, then it should be giving 5V out. it is basically just a switch.
i haven't looked specifically into stuff, but if your battery voltage is getting pulled too low during cranking, it can upset things..
gap between sensor and trigger wheel is not too big?

do you have access to a 'scope to check the signals? if you are checking ith multimeter and the signal is too fast for it, then a 5V might only register as 2V (since it may average the voltage over a given time period)

[knightrous]

Im fucken over this car of mine at the moment. Not making any progress. I have it all wired in and connecting to my lap top now but not getting any Cranking signal. Im not sure why as i have checked and triple checked the wiring etc. Im using and MS2357 and using a hall effect sensor from diyautotune. I was reading on mega squirt forums somewhere that i should be getting fluctuations in the volts as the trigger wheel notches pass the sensor. They say it should be varying between 0v and 5v but mine is only varying between about 2.5v and 0v when measured with a multimeter. Someone said that you can pull the ECU to bits and vary those volts using some pots but i dont know how. And not that keen to pull it to bits as im a noob. Anyone no anything about this? I may be misinterpreting this and the pots may vary the supply voltage to the CAS not signal volts. I checked the supply volts and it was 4.95 volts so this is right.

Has anyone else had any similar problems and can anyone offer any advice?
Cheers
Simon

Can you advise how you have wired the hall sensor up? Some photos?
A lot of things can play up just because of something a simple as a 1k resistor missing or an incorrect pot setting. So the more info you can provide, the better

[thechuckster]

have you tried connecting the Supply wire (for the sensor) to 12V instead of VREF (which is only 5v)? I thought folks went the 12V normally?

Hall effect threaded body crankshaft position sensor DIYAutoTune.com

Also, if you're feeding the signal in via the VR conditioner, you might need to adjust it for increase sensitivity. Personally, I thought going Hall Effect allowed you to bypass/ditch the VR conditioner hardware.

Some relevant reading:
MS2-Extra Ignition Hardware Manual
and
MS2-Extra Ignition Hardware Manual

You can also use a LED (fed via 390ohm resister on the + wire) to check if the sensor is switching, like this.

also, some notes on settings for these sensors:

If the sensor switches to ground when it sees a tooth and goes high (12 or 5V) when it see's a gap then set the Ignition Input Capture to "Rising Edge"

If the sensor switches to ground when it sees a gap and goes high (12 or 5V) when it see's a tooth then set the Ignition Input Capture to "Falling Edge"

Once the engine is running double check your timing using a strobe. (To fix the angle at say 10deg to make reading it easier set the "Fixed Advance" to Fixed and set the "Timing for Fixed Advance" to 10deg. Change the Fixed Advance to "Use Table" once youve finished!!) If it is out then alter your Trigger Angle untill it is correct.

[TTV8RA23]

Wiring diagram small.jpg
This is the wiring diagram i have used. I used a good thick two core shielded wire and the shield is earthed to the ecu earths on the top right of the plug. and a seperate 5v feed shared by the TPS

What is the VR conditioner? Is this the 5v output from the ECU for running sensors eg in this diagram the hall sensor and the tps? I didnt build the ECU io bought it as a kitset so i have not had it apart and not played with the "pots" at all nor do i know where they are or what they do.

Im pretty sure the sensor is switch as putting the multimeter between signal wire and earth and im getting voltage fluctuations from 0v to 2.5v so maybe dont need to try LED method.

So maybe one thing to try is feed the sensor with 12v instead of 5 and see if the voltage fluctuations are higher. Up where they say it should be atleast 5v on the sensor wire.

I have also read about installing a resistor in line across the wires but i only understood this as dealing with interference on motors that are already running?? I may try this too i think and see how we go. Im willing to try anything at the moment as i have just about completely lost my cool with them.

When checking the voltage fluctuation as the teeth past by i was using a multimeter and only turning the motor over slowly by hand so shouldnt have been going too quick to read the true volts. I probably could get access to a scope so i may try that as well. I only have a small battery but i dont think the volts would be dropping too low as i have the plugs out during cranking etc. In saying that though if i crank it over for more than say 3seconds it the lap top does say my ECU is offline, comes back on quickly after cranking stopped. Should i be using a bigger battery? The gap between the sensor and trigger wheel is not too big. It says 1.5mm i had it at this and have since moved it a bit closer.

Cheers for all your advice ill try these couple of things and see if i have any luck.
Simon

[WDE_BDY]

the MS-II V3.57 has jumper pins you set for different ignition setups, pull the top off and see how yours are set. Should be already set for Hall but you ever know.

Callum

[TTV8RA23]

How do you know where its supposed to be set?
Cheers

[WDE_BDY]

Can't seem to find the info I used, supposed to be in the megamanual somewhere though.

Callum

[oldcorollas]

MegaSquirt V3.57 Main Board - Advanced Electronic Fuel Injection Computer by Bowling & Grippo ©2007

Tach input selection jumper JP1
Placing a jumper across positions 2 and 3 enables opto-isolator ("Hall") tach input.

Tach selection jumper J1 is for routing the signal-conditioned tach signal to the processor. Only one jumper is used, the remaining positions are open.
A jumper on pins 1 - 2 enables the opto-isolator.

maybe those? Hopefulyl Callum or Chuckster can confirm