Megasquirt users thread to discuss all things Squirty

[danielk]

Main board assembled Now working on finishing up the jumpers to the PNP board and making an ignition loom.

[oldcorollas]

lookin' good there!!
recent boards look so much cleaner than V1 and V2


Caam, if you want to start playing with fuel tuning, before spark tuning, you can take RPM signal from the coil, and run the points dizzy... but still better to do all wiring at once

[knightrous]

Daniel, to make it a bit easier for yourself, make up a translation table.
It makes it soooo much easier to ensure you have the jumpers to the socket right.
This is what I did for my 20V

[danielk]

Thanks Aaron. Yeah I did something similar. I got the one off the autotune website for the air flow meter 4age and used the pin out for mine (map sensored, they are different) to change it around slightly. I should do up a good one like yours for others if they need it. Only done the powers and grounds so far.


Why do you have the fuel pump through db15? I don't have mine with me but from memory it could all go through the stock loom with the bigport (except for the ignition stuff of course).

[knightrous]

There is no wire to control the fuel on the 20V, it's done via the AFM/COR circuits. I've also actually just got it running out a spare pin on the main loom at the moment instead of the DB15, should probably fix that up in my table

[danielk]

Ahhh makeith sense it does I'll try finish all jumpers tonight.

[caam]

Yeah I will be doing all of the wiring at once, ordering my kit tonight

Anybody happen to have a base map/tune for a 2TG? or point me in the direction of something similar?

[knightrous]

Anybody happen to have a base map/tune for a 2TG? or point me in the direction of something similar?

Just start with the base generated maps that TunerStudio / MegaTune creates.
I've found them to be good enough to start and drive around on with just a couple of changes around the idle area to get it smooth.
YMMV, but it's worked well for me on the 3x 4AGE's I've run megasquirts on

[ballpencil]

Not much luck on MSExtra forum so I'm trying my luck here..

I'm about to convert my 200cc single cylinder bike and gathering up as much info as i can.
I learned that some bikes have one big reluctor on their flywheel, such as here: http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...p?f=94&t=17201.
The reluctor duration have long degree span. The leading edge typically starts at 30-32 degress while the trailing edge comes at 6-10 degrees.

My understanding is that the trailing edge is used by the CDI for a fixed cranking/idling timing advance while after a certain RPM threshold, the CDI will switch to the leading edge, adding delay as necessary until full advance is reached. Am i correct? How is this done with regards to the CDI internal schematics? I don't think it matters whether it's AC or DC CDI.

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i believe a CDI is triggered only on the positive side of the sine wave created by the VR sensor which comes only on the leading edge (transition from low to high of the flywheel's surface). So the way i see it, unless there's an electronic switch to reverse the VR polarity AND disable the delay after a certain RPM, the trailing edge is basically useless as it only produces the negative side of VR sensor's output. I tried finding such CDI circuit with that capability but failed. Pardon my language. I'm not a native english speaker.

If i'm to run fuel-only setup with such reluctor, how do i get an RPM signal to MS? Does LM1815 VR conditioner has enough impedance so that i can run it parallel with the stock CDI to the VR sensor? I think the long reluctor would be useless for LM1815 though, as it would cause timing instability due to the distance between the leading and trailing edge?

[_gear2]

Im looking at getting an after market ecu and megasquirt is looking really appealing but does anyone know if you are able to control something like a step motor type bypass valve on the megasquirt, I can only seem info regarding controlling the IAC.

[Ken_T]

Yeah, you can. off the top of my head, you need to install different components to make it PWM idle valve or stepper compatible and do the jumpers as shown on the IAC page but it's covered in the ms2 build manual and ms3 build manuals.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pcb.htm

Near the bottom of the page.

CPU Connector Description
JS0 IAC1A Stepper motor signal 1A
JS1 IAC1B Stepper motor signal 1B
JS2 IAC2A Stepper motor signal 2A
JS3 IAC2B Stepper motor signal 2B
JS10 IGN or
IGBTIN (w/ IGBTOUT->IGN)
check manual Ignition output
JS6 SPR1/CANH CAN High
JS8 SPR2/CANL CAN Low

[nuk1ear]

still cant get mine to start properly:
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...?f=131&t=46054

[thechuckster]

Im looking at getting an after market ecu and megasquirt is looking really appealing but does anyone know if you are able to control something like a step motor type bypass valve on the megasquirt, I can only seem info regarding controlling the IAC.

MS1 and above can PWM or simply on/off control a non-stepper motor aux-air valve. You need to add extra hardware depending on what kind of valve you are driving. What motor & what valve are you concerned with?

[thechuckster]

still cant get mine to start properly:
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...?f=131&t=46054

some things to possibly do:
- if the Wideband starts giving you bogus data, do a clear-air re-calibration on it, then wire up the power to the wideband controller so it doesn't power on until the motor is running. I found that lots of low-voltage starts would make my LC1 either loose it's calibration or somehow corrupt it, resulting in useless data for closed-loop control.
- if following the advice on the diyautotune page, don't forget to check to 'reset the Tooth #1 angle' as mentioned. The MSextra (ms3) manual suggests both triggers are rising edge.
- adjust the throttle stop to crack it open a bit, then turn off any idle control. Sort out the trigger issue then return to idle setup and tuning.
- changing the cam signal from G1 to G2 is a 360 degree shift (I think).

You've followed these setup notes: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/trigg...l#dualwheelcam ?

From the ignition page (in the MS3 manual):
V3.57 board - VR Input for VR (magnetic) sensor
a) Find JP1 in the bottom right of the board. Place a jumper across positions 1 and 2
b) Find J1 in the middle of the board. Place a jumper across positions 3 and 4
c) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, 7 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) This sets them up for most VR sensors.

or

V3.0 board - VR Input for VR (magnetic) sensor
a) Solder a link between VRIN and TACHSELECT
b) Solder a wire between VrOUT and TSEL
c) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, about 12 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) This sets them up for most VR sensors.


fwiw, I'm using an older CPU so will be referring to this for setup: http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/...tributors.html

[knightrous]

Definitely need to fix the sync errors first. My 20V struggled to start and then ran like a WRX when I was having sync issues (home trigger). Sorted that out (switch to falling signal) and it fired up and purred like a kitten from there after (with a bit of hunting until I adjusted the ISCV )